Valve Body Removal

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Styria

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This is one of the easier jobs, especially if you don't have to refit the unit later on. The first thing to do is to lift the car with a trolley jack high enough to comfortably get under the car and have elbow room to move,Make sure that the car is suspended securely with proper supports under the chassis. The tools you need are first of all a large flatish type of bucket to catch all of the transmission fluid - and there is a lot of it, say about (initially) five liters. Have that bucket under the transmission at all times. Firstly, just loosen the large filler pipe nut at the side of the sump - it is a 22mm or 24mm hex unit, and a shifter will do the job. Only loosen it at this stage.

Next, loosen the four 13mm pan retaining bolts - use a small socket with extension and ratchet. By this time the oil is starting to seep out - keep the bucket underneath ! Now completely undo the filler pipe and proceed to remove the pan retaining bolts. Just let the whole lot drop into the bucket. Always leave the bucket in place. You can now unscrew the transmission filter, and again drop it into the bucket. Time now to wipe all fluid from your hands and under your armpits and walk away from the job for five minutes. But wait, you haven't finished yet. Again with that bucket still in place, commence removal of the valve body itself - it is held in place by, I think, about nine 13mm hex headed bolts. Do not remove or undo any of the small bolts (about 14 of them) that hold the valve body sections together. Remove all bar two of the 13mm hex bolts - the whoe time, whilst you are undoing those, oil will just keep on pouring and seeping from the box into, hopefully, the bucket. The reason for leaving the two bolts is twofold. Firstly, it stops the valve body from dropping down, and secondly you need to move the internal gear selector lever from the gear changing ratchet. It sounds complex, but it isn't. Once the valve body is clear of that gear change ratchet, you can remove the valve body completely. Again, just place it in that bucket ! Even at this stage, leave the bucket in place, as it takes a long time for all of the oil to drain from the torque converter.

Okay, I am looking for a valve body for my 450SE, and you have yourself a sure-fire sale. :D Regards Styria
 

WGB

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I have always assumed valve bodies are not repairable - is this true.

Does the 6.9 have it's own valve body or does it share it with the 450 transmission?

Bill
 
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Styria

Styria

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Hi Bill,that's a very, very good question, and I am not sure how to answer it. What I have found is that just about all valve bodies have some slight, perhaps ever so slight, variations in valves and springs. To what extent those variations may manifest themselves in the operation of a gearbox I am not sure.

Personally, there is a chance that a 450 valve body will be suitable in a 6.9 box - however, the only sure way of telling is to actually carry out the fitment and then try out the car. I might do that one day, although I would have to swap from 6.9 to 450, rather than the other way around as you have posed the query. Regards Styria

N.B. Also I would love to try a four speed box such as fitted to Michel's 5 litre AMG SL. That car seems to have a never ending "waftability" as it is going through the gears and I also think that it has a very tall diff ratio - in line with 6.9 gearing, i.e. at least 40 km/h to 1000rpm.
 
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