Any trick to replacing heater valve?

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GreaseMonkey

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I just noticed a slow dripping leak from the heater control valve on the engine side of the bulkhead.
It's a '75 280SE and opened and closed by a vacuum actuator.
Has anyone changed one of these and is there anything I need to know before I tackle it?
I have asked MB Spares re availability before I try the wreckers, but do not want to start dismantling anything until I have a replacement.
Any tips appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris M.
 
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s class

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I have just bought a new valve ($120 from the dealer here) for the blue 6.9. I will be replacing it this weekend. I've never done any work in that area before, so I'll see how it goes and report back.
 

TJ 450

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There is a plastic and a metal version. I have purchased the metal version from the dealer, as it just seems to be the more robust option. The plastic version is cheaper and the metal version does not include a vacuum element, which is available separately. Replacement requires removal of the grille beneath the wipers and is pretty straight-forward.

Tim
 
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s class

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I got the metal one, which is what is presently in the car.
 

Styria

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I think TJ 450 has got it pretty right - BTW, I think he could now consider changing his avatar to TJ 6.9. Just make sure that you have the replacement plastic retaining plugs handy that locate the intake grille. Also be careful how you treat the windscreen rubber when you push the edge of the grille back under. It's just a bit fiddly. Regards Styria
 
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GreaseMonkey

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Thanks for all the help, I will get a new one, and the trim clips needed at the same time, and report back on how it went.
C.M.
 

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