6.9 front suspension valve replacement

[Styria]

As indicated in another thread, this valve had never been replaced during my ownership of Gleaming Beauty, although a missing washer indicated that the unit was a replacement item from earlier times. Having never done the job, it was with some trepidation that I decided to tackle it. The valve had developed a slight leak during the last few weeks, and with two of the front air cells being replaced at the same time, this was a good opportunity to get the job out of the way.

There are four hydraulic lines attached to the valve body and quite frankly it is best to leave them attached.



Rather than dismantling them, it is better to remove the feeder lines from the copper joints. I also removed the two 10mm retaining bolts from the valve, leaving the bracket attached to the body. That's all quite straight forward - just the correct claw spanner and a 13mm open ender.



I had a rebuilt valve on hand, and attached all four pipes prior to refitting it to the car. I had also removed the bracket that is secured by three self tapping 10mm bolts, and cleaned and painted it. I also took the opportunity to paint that section of the inner guard in the 877 Petrol as with the valve in place, it is difficult to get to all the difficult to reach spots in that area.



.........prior to removal........



Refitting was fairly straightforward - but I would advise to attach the valve body to the bracket PRIOR to refitting to the inner guard - fitting the bracket first, it would be difficult to get the two bolts started.

That area all nicely painted up.....



Regards Styria

 

[SEL_69L]

I can understand the trepidation: all of those suspension lines have to be connected up again without a leak. Not doing that properly could be a cause for continuing annoyance later on. Fortunately, you have had experience with the air lines on the 6.3 suspension.

 

[Styria]

Hi SEL69L, it is just a matter of patience, and some knowledge that I have obviously attained over the years. I must say that I had found working on my 6.9 somewhat easier when compared with its sibling, the venerable 6.3. If ever a car was designed by an engineer's fancy and dreams, the 6.3 has got to be it. Just ask abl567, the (venerable !) editor of Lode Star, the magazine of the M100 movement. Regards Styria

 

[WGB]

Thankyou for the pictorial Styria.

It is a job I will do at some time as my front valve has some oil mist on it but is otherwise OK.

I have two new 126 valves I have accumulated.

Bill

 

[Styria]

You're more than welcome, Bill. The aim is to pass on our experiences, such as they are, whether good or bad, to others that do their own work.

I found the job surprisingly straight forward - it's just a matter of having a good look, a bit of a think, and then go for it. When commencing re-assembly, I initially secured the bracket to the chassis member, but it didn't take long to realize that with the pipes already fitted, it was just too awkward to try and hold the valve in place and to fit the two 10mm bolts. Therefore, I assembled the valve and bracket on the bench and re-fitted them as one unit. Also, it is advantageous to quite firmly fit all four pipes to the valve body on the bench - to try and fit them after the valve has been secured would just about be impossible. Regards Styria

 

[John S]

Is the suspension working correctly now that the valve and air-cells has been replaced?

 

[Michel]

Is the suspension working correctly now that the valve and air-cells has been replaced?

Nice to have you back John

 

[260ebenz]

Nice to have you back John

Welcome back John and good to have you back here on the TK site and the MBCNSW site.

All the best to you John and Elsie.

Cheers Tim.

 

[SEL_69L]

Welcome back John. There were a large number of folks that were quite concerned about you. We all certainly hope you are quite OK now, or at least on the way to a full recovery.

 

[Styria]

Is the suspension working correctly now that the valve and air-cells has been replaced?

To be perfectly honest, I ran out of time prior to GB being trucked to Michel's for the body work and paint job. I merely refitted the right hand strut that I had removed, and there seemed to be a slight hydraulic leak from "wherever" but I thought I have now fixed (so to speak), but the main point was that the car rose to its normal height level with a minimum of fuss and no extra revs once I started the engine. That part was important. In fact, John, presently there is no oil in the steering box, so there was no chance of moving the car except to drive it across the road to make it easier to load onto the truck. So everything is an unknown at this stage. Regards Styria

 

[Styria]

How time flies - it is now four years since GB was repainted. I have revived the thread in response to PvdD. It should assist you in replacing the valve. It is important to have some of the piping fitted firmly and correctly prior to installation back in car. There is obviously one, the long one without connecting joint, that needs to be left off, and it is just a little tricky getting the valve into position with the other three rods already firmly fitted. Regards. Styria

 

[WGB]

That post made it easy to change my valve some years ago and while I was at it I replaced the sway bar rubber bushes on the firewall.

The driver's side bush replacement necessitated removal of the brake booster as well.

Bill

 

[Oversize]

It makes sense to loosen the pipes in situ if you have access and remove the valve with the pipes attached. Then put it all back in the reverse order.

The last thing you want is to try to start those threads in the aluminum valve block when there's little access and there's a chance the pipes aren't on the right angle. Cross-threading them would be a disaster!