WGB
New Member
The usual 116 problem is a sagging outer edge to the drivers seat and the only real lasting solution is probably a new seat base and prefererably the older and interchangeable 108 type with coils springs rather than the later torsion bar type springing - very labour intensive and requires finding and purchasing a 108 (or early 116) seat base.
Another option is to change the passenger seat base for the driver seat base - also very labour intensive.
When I re-upholstered my front seats 2 years ago I was going to swap the bases but it would have required drilling out the rivets for the hinges and replacing them on the opposite side of each base and the base itself has punched holes that are mirror images of each other and they may be like that for a structural reason - however apart from this they appear interchangeable.
I made the decision to repair the drivers base using crimped joints to the two broken springs.
I have regretted that decision ever since as although the springs are now sound they are weak on the outer edge from people getting in and out over 30 years and this causes some discomfort, a disconcerting feeling going around left hand corners, as well as back pain - especially as I have a scoliosis that is exactly the opposite of the tilt in the seat.
Getting the seats in and out of the car is not easy and I have been driving around for the past two years wishing the largely unoccupied pasengers seat had the problem - not mine.
A few months ago a genuine M-B repair kit for 126 seats (which are even weaker than the later 116 seat bases) appeared on US e-bay and the picture showed it to be two hollow rubber cylinders which are placed vertically on either side at the leading edge of the seat between the base and the spring pad.
This still allows the spring base to work and stops the over stuffed and hard squab effect that forcing a pool noodle around between the springs can cause.
Using the same theory as the genuine repair kit and a $2 pool noodle I cut three lengths - 16cm, 14cm and 12cm from the noodle. With the seat in position and me sitting on it I eased the bottom leather re-inforced seam from it's channel in the seat base and this left plenty of room to ease in the three lengths of noodle - each sitting vertically. They wedge nicely between base and squab springing with the longest at the front , 14 cm in middle and 12 cm at rear. Sit on it again and tuck in the leather back in the channel again.
The seat is now level and the outer edge is firm but the integrity and springing of the base is still present.
At $2 and 22 minutes of time I will see if I am happy with it or not. If not I will find a 108 base and start again.
Bill
`
Another option is to change the passenger seat base for the driver seat base - also very labour intensive.
When I re-upholstered my front seats 2 years ago I was going to swap the bases but it would have required drilling out the rivets for the hinges and replacing them on the opposite side of each base and the base itself has punched holes that are mirror images of each other and they may be like that for a structural reason - however apart from this they appear interchangeable.
I made the decision to repair the drivers base using crimped joints to the two broken springs.
I have regretted that decision ever since as although the springs are now sound they are weak on the outer edge from people getting in and out over 30 years and this causes some discomfort, a disconcerting feeling going around left hand corners, as well as back pain - especially as I have a scoliosis that is exactly the opposite of the tilt in the seat.
Getting the seats in and out of the car is not easy and I have been driving around for the past two years wishing the largely unoccupied pasengers seat had the problem - not mine.
A few months ago a genuine M-B repair kit for 126 seats (which are even weaker than the later 116 seat bases) appeared on US e-bay and the picture showed it to be two hollow rubber cylinders which are placed vertically on either side at the leading edge of the seat between the base and the spring pad.
This still allows the spring base to work and stops the over stuffed and hard squab effect that forcing a pool noodle around between the springs can cause.
Using the same theory as the genuine repair kit and a $2 pool noodle I cut three lengths - 16cm, 14cm and 12cm from the noodle. With the seat in position and me sitting on it I eased the bottom leather re-inforced seam from it's channel in the seat base and this left plenty of room to ease in the three lengths of noodle - each sitting vertically. They wedge nicely between base and squab springing with the longest at the front , 14 cm in middle and 12 cm at rear. Sit on it again and tuck in the leather back in the channel again.
The seat is now level and the outer edge is firm but the integrity and springing of the base is still present.
At $2 and 22 minutes of time I will see if I am happy with it or not. If not I will find a 108 base and start again.
Bill
`