Another wannabe 6.9 for sale

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Oversize

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This guy is adamant it's a 6.9, but I'm not so sure. The VINs wrong and even if it's a engine swap, it looks like a steel sump. But on some of his videos he made comment that he used 11L of oil to fill her up. I'd like a pic and engine # to confirm what it is.

The owners a dill as he recons Ford wheels have the same stud pattern as MB. Any wonder one of the wheels fell off in another video!!!

It just confirms that these cars need to stay in the hands of true enthusiasts. :mad:
 
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Michel

Michel

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Honestly....

I wouldn't take it if he gave it to me.

I would hurt too much to see a car butchered like that :mad:
 

Tony66_au

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LMFAO!

What a knob end!

And THIS is why im wary of 6.9's and was looking at 560SEL's although the few I have seriously looked at so far all seem to have suffered neglect and abuse anyway.
 

Styria

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LMFAO!

What a knob end!

And THIS is why im wary of 6.9's and was looking at 560SEL's although the few I have seriously looked at so far all seem to have suffered neglect and abuse anyway.

Tony, there really is no need to be vary of 6.9s. It's just a question of picking a well preserved and looked after specimen, preferable with a recent (!) history of maintenance and money spent on it. The majority of cars that come up for sale seem to suffer in various areas, primarily rust, slightly shabby and worn interiors, cracked dashes and obviously neglected exteriors. Just pick carefully, and you won't be sorry.

I bought Gleaming Beauty just on seventeen years ago, and paid $10,750.00, with no paperwork, no invoices, and no nothing from a dealer. It was the price that attracted me - well, actually it was advertised for $15K., at a time when the next cheapest came in at about $22K. Anyway, an inspection revealed a flaring gearbox (2nd to top), a good enough paint job, dark windows, and a slightly worn interior. The box, plus some faulty front air cells resulted in the dealer dropping the car down to the above quoted figure. I was stoked the way the car drove - it was unbelievable, and the mileage showing was, from memory, 204,000 kilometers. Some months later, I managed to acquire another 6.9 for very cheap money ($4K), with an excellent interior the same colour as GB, and the four rubber blocks. That interior is today still in GB and, still, in excellent condition.

So I guess if you pay a reasonable amount, and have a couple of spare cars (a la Oversize), you can cobble up a pretty good car for reasonable money. BTW, the box lasted about five years before it got the better of me - in fact, I did up back in the year 2000, together with another 6.9 box which is now in the hands of Ofontenay, one of our fellow members. The engine has had a valve grind and de-coke, quite comprehensively detailed in another thread (three years ago ?), and from engine and box perspective, and diff, the car is running faultlessly. I know I have gone off topic a little, but I am trying to illustrate that one can, in fact, place a great deal of faith in a 6.9. Just use your head, common sense, and a bit of knowledge. Regards Styria
 
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Tony66_au

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The issue is my philosophy on old cars....

I don't want to pay a reasonable amount because it is no guarantee.



450's being simpler and far more plentiful as well as less expensive to repair I would pay 2k for one.

450 6.9's however would have to be a cheap purchase because I'd expect to spend 2 or 3k off the bat to make the car drivable without over capitalising.

If I were to spend money I would be more likely to spend it on a 109 6.3 as im far more likely to have a reasonable resale down the track.

Im not saying the 6.9's are not worth it as a car but the market doesn't agree with the money we have to spend to make them a lovely car.

I have watched them now for a few years and my educated opinion is that they are undervalued not unlike 450SEL's and this is not likely to change in the immediate future.

Even the 126 models like the 420, 500 and 560 are very cheap in the no provenance car sector and represent excellent value if complete and in reasonable condition.

The other issue is that I would be adding around 600 Kilometers per week to the mileage which very quickly finds care shortfalls in any car let alone one approaching 40 years of age as id drive the car daily so in my unique circumstance the better road would be to spend the money myself, do most of the repair myself or under my supervision (An option I exercise with my Mechanic) and then keep meticulous records of all work done.

This equals reliable mileage and preventative maintenance on older cars also saves me money as I buy parts as I can and keep them until they are needed instead of having to get them ASAP with a broken car in the shop.

My Current daily is a good example of my Philosophy.

Bought for under $1000 with minor dents, Driven and evaluated for a few weeks I found it to be mechanically very good although showing over 300'000 km.

I ordered from the USA a number of items I know to be an issue with this car and made formerly unknown quantities into Known quantities as well as repairing a few small items for Roadworthy.

For example, In tank pre fuel pump and tank filter. timing belt kit inc tensioner and seals, all belts, Pwr Steer pump filter, trans service kit and rear trans mount, washer nozzles front and rear and front and rear wiper heads with blades, Thermostat housing and 90 degree thermostat and fuel pump relay.

Mostly Mahle, Llemforder and Febi as well as Gabriel struts to replace the awful chinese units.

The leads and cap n rotor were Bosch and in good condition but hellishly expensive here so I ordered a set as well.

So the entire cost of the car to date, on the road and roadworthy (not including registration) is $1800.00 and I had an old friend who if familiar with Bosch LH Jet and these cars drive the car and make a few tweaks but over all he was very impressed.

And I now have a known quantity, reliable and recently placed another order from the US supplier to stock up on non essential parts I will replace as well as a few service tools that were cheap which will bring the amount spent to around the $2600 mark.

The car returns 10.8 km per litre up 2 kpl from when I first got the car running 95 ron Caltex and this is with the A/C running and in the 9 weeks I have been driving the car I have clocked up 12'780 km to date in what is essentially a "disposable" car.
 

Tony66_au

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This can not be done by everyone though as you have to be able to "Pick" a good candidate that represents the best possible value for the least possible initial outlay of cash, Then you need to be able to spend a few thousand dollars right away over and above the purchase price to bring the car to a reasonable and roadworthy standard which means you have to KNOW the cars well.

My Example above seemed too good to be true at first glance because it was a lady owner who had brought the car down with her from New South Wales (A bonus for Victorians because of your yearly inspections forcing a higher maintenance standard) and the car has service documentation leading back to its purchase new in 1989 with a few gaps but the past 7 years is all accounted for primarily with an excellent specialist shop in Newcastle and a Euro specialist in Melbourne with near 10k spent in 5 years.

The car is also 100% original down to the very good factory radio cassette player, factory rubber boot mats throughout, flawless door pockets and seat pockets and good velour upholstery.

So by this I determined that the car was well cared for, owned by 2 owners and both for a long time. (Via VicRoads transfer check)

All good even after a good look correct?

The initial asking price was $2800 so I watched the car get passed over time and time again, found the 3 online classified adverts and watched.

The car was listed again this time with no reserve and my bid was $1200.00 even on Day 1 of the auction, by Day 9 I was still the highest bidder and I won the auction at a bit under $1000.00.
 

Oversize

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Well done Tony! Yes with the km you do, a 'disposable' car is a great idea.

I chose the 6.9 because I love the engineering, power AND because they're undervalued. One day that'll change, but for now I purely wanna enjoy them and care for them.

BTW the wannabe 6.9 seems to be turning into just that; a lowly 450 (the owner's just updated the ad). But I will say that for 'only' a 450, it does a decent skid..... :cool:
 

Tony66_au

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I bring the car home and on the way home do my usual "Shakedown" run, I have also promised to keep the lady appraised of my findings via email and with pictures as she is quite attached still and thinks I got a bargain. (Remember she initially wanted $2800)

My run home tells me everything is working ok but the engine needs a tune, the fuel gauge is faulty and the odometer isnt functional plus the speedo (Electronic) reads high and jumps about a bit all of which are expected issues with this car.

Brakes are excellent, steering is a bit heavier than i remember and the transmission leaks a small amount and the daylights don't work.

So I start a job card when i get home and get to work the following morning.

Immediately it becomes obvious that the recent work on the car has been shoddy...

I am matching repair bills with the car and looking for evidence of work done and i find anomalies, Stuff like a broken bolt from the power steer pump mounting buried in grunge on the engine bay pan which caused the heavy power steer as the thing was slipping due to not being mounted properly.

Old and slightly burnt trans oil showing no trans service for ages.

No odometer readings on invoices for a few years (A simple fix to a Dash that is easy to repair for $110 changeover)

And nasty cheap oil filters......

Once I start work I find that the fuel filter is disgusting and one of the injectors has a cracked seat O ring while the one next to it has a new O ring.......

The front struts, one of which is leaking were replaced 8 months ago with no name brand units and are badly valved and yet the parts cost is $360 plus 2 hours labour and the OEM units I bought were $163 a pair and took about 45 mins to change over.

So I let the lady know and tally up my costs adding pictures of my findings.

I add a labour cost of 5 hours priced @ $80 per hour and even with premium OEM parts I come up at only 25% of what she was charged.

I also see 2 charges for her being towed in, Once for Over Drive solenoid and once for Fuel pump relays both of which are mileage based service items which were not done and cost her time and money........

So her nice Euro shop was gouging her and not performing plus fitting nasty cheap bits which in my opinion make the last 5 years of service records worthless.

Sure they had leather lounge in the waiting area and free latte's but so do Toyota dealers lol.

So the cars worth?

What I paid for it and perhaps now the car is worth $2500 or a bit more if i supply a roadworthy.

But most importantly I know that apart from a catastrophic failure or abuse the car is reliable and enjoyable and this is the basis of my Philosophy.

Buy it cheap, make it good and then.... Enjoy it with peace of mind.
 

Tony66_au

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Well done Tony! Yes with the km you do, a 'disposable' car is a great idea.

I chose the 6.9 because I love the engineering, power AND because they're undervalued. One day that'll change, but for now I purely wanna enjoy them and care for them.

BTW the wannabe 6.9 seems to be turning into just that; a lowly 450 (the owner's just updated the ad). But I will say that for 'only' a 450, it does a decent skid..... :cool:


And that is just it!

Even a brand new family car becomes expensive in less than 2 years with the miles I do which is why Police Vehicles are changed over at 40 to 60'000 km.


As for the skids lol

NOS and a mini spool or Mig Diff will make a difference or add a low blow supercharger and any M117 should become a torque monster.

Id be concerned about spitting flex discs though.
 
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