300SE flat battery!

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260ebenz

260ebenz

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Hmmm - crawl underneath and check that the sump plug is tight then.
Regards,
Brian

Checking the sump plug is tight Brian I have never done that before and would not know where to start a job for my Mechanic.

300SE may have had the oil leak before I purchased the car speak to MB Spares about this.

The vacuum modulator needs to be adjusted it must be set on a more advanced gear change setting that has to be looked at which I believe is a 2 minute job to adjust the modulator setting is that correct?

Checked the boot light for some reason the light has been disconnected do not know why?

Cheers.
 
OP
260ebenz

260ebenz

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Tim - do you have a nearby TAFE? Most TAFEs have a basic car care course which would help you with knowing more about the mechanics of your car.
For example, how far are you from Berkeley Vale?
http://www.courses.com.au/study/car_maintenance/car_maintenance/?x=1&id=5887
Regards,
Brian

Hello Brian,

I live in Nelson Bay which is 45mins from Newcastle and 3hrs from Sydney.

I assume Berkley Vale is in Sydney?

The TAFE basic car care course does sound very interesting I wonder if the course is offered in Newcastle?
 
OP
260ebenz

260ebenz

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Disconnected the battery charger just over 3 hours ago.

Good news the charger was warm when I disconnected it now a warm charger is apparently a good sign the battery is going to be okay is that correct?

Switched off the charger disconnected the positive and negative cables to the battery, and the battery is sitting outside under cover.

With a car battery you should not leave the battery inside the house is that correct?

9am tomorrow my mate and I are going to reconnect the battery fingers crossed turn the key and hope for the best.

As for the black fluid oil leak will check it tomorrow will have to have the oil leak looked at.

I will have to contact MB Spares about the oil leak and the discuss the vacuum modulator and the disconnected boot light.

Cheers guys.
 
Last edited:

Oversize

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All chargers get warm when charging and it doesn't indicate battery condition. How long was it on charge for??

CHARGING inside is a no-no because a wet cell battery gives off hydrogen gas which is explosive! A battery that's not being charged shouldn't give off gas. But the electrolyte is sulphuric acid which will eat through skin, clothes, paint and steel. Think Alien's blood, only slower!!! :eek: Touch nothing after handling a wet-cell battery until you've washed your hands thoroughly.

From what I understand leaving a battery on a concrete floor can lead to premature failure.... thoughts?? Myth??

I'd have the alternator charge rate and alarm current draw checked by an auto-electrician once the battery's been replaced. The boot light switch may be faulty if the globe was removed. Have that checked too when the globe is replaced.
 
OP
260ebenz

260ebenz

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All chargers get warm when charging and it doesn't indicate battery condition. How long was it on charge for??

CHARGING inside is a no-no because a wet cell battery gives off hydrogen gas which is explosive! A battery that's not being charged shouldn't give off gas. But the electrolyte is sulphuric acid which will eat through skin, clothes, paint and steel. Think Alien's blood, only slower!!! :eek: Touch nothing after handling a wet-cell battery until you've washed your hands thoroughly.

From what I understand leaving a battery on a concrete floor can lead to premature failure.... thoughts?? Myth??

I'd have the alternator charge rate and alarm current draw checked by an auto-electrician once the battery's been replaced. The boot light switch may be faulty if the globe was removed. Have that checked too when the globe is replaced.

Battery was on the charger from 8:30 this morning until 6:30 tonight.

Battery is NOT in the house it is outside under cover.

Connect the battery tomorrow and will let you know how that goes.

Go and see my Auto Electrician on Tuesday about the boot light, alernator charge rate and the alarm current draw.

Thanks for your help Mark.

Cheers Tim.
 

Tony66_au

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its no myth Gents.

I used to stock batteries at the workshop and they supplied a stand with instructions to never store a wet battery on cold surfaces.

As the batteries I had were dry until the client bought them it wasn't an issue but both Bosch and Exide made it clear that there was no return on sedimented (Sulphate sediment) batteries.

Delkor however had no such issue as they supplied me with Calcium plate batteries but they suggested that the would lose stored charge if left on concrete.

Cold bases do not affect new batteries as much but a used battery will fail if the plates have started to degrade because the cold makes the plates flake sediment which will short cells out by build up between the plates, sometime just one or 2 plates and sometimes all of them which is why car batteries fail in extreme cold.

The facts are thus, Batteries work via chemical reaction and this reaction slows and can stop in cold temps, even mobile phone batteries go flat far sooner in cold weather.

The exception to this rule are Gel cell batteries and calcium plate batteries.

New wet cell car batteries wont fail but they will be flat or at less than full charge after a few days on the floor, and remember that car battery voltage is 13.8 volts, not 12 and that although the voltage may still show as 12-13.8 the cold crank amperage will be reduced if the unit isnt stored correctly.
 
Last edited:

WGB

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I hope the fluid leak is nothing too serious but I assume there is some sort of warranty or follow up assistance.

My 300SE had a hauntingly similar ability to flatten it's battery when I purchased it as a 2 year old car.

1) It had a brand new battery - which I found odd.

2) After about three weeks it failed to start one morning and I called teh local garage who turned up while I was at work and pronounced the battery was faulty and fitted another new battery. When I called in to see the battery and said it was so new it probably was still under a warranty it had mysteriously disappeared from the shop.

3) After another 3 weeks it flattened it's brand new battery again. This time I recharged it myself.

4) I sent it off to the main agents who pronounced the car and it's charging system to be in rude health

5) It went flat again and again I recharged the battery.

6) I replaced the brush and voltage regulator unit in the back of the alternator

7) It went flat again - I was beginning to understand why the previous owner had sold a near new car.

8) I purchased a $10 Ammeter from Dick Smith's and disconnected the negative lead.

9) after working out the drains from the old telephone unit it had fitted as well as the burglar alarm there was an alarming 2 amp drain that would last for 2 minutes and then it would cease for one minute before re-commencinmg again.

10) I removed all the fuses one at a time and from memory (22 years ago) fuse 4 stopped the current draw. It turned out to be the electrical antenna not turning off when parked in the down position (electronic switch that measured current draw and was supposed to turn the motor off when the mast stalled in the down position) and every two minutes it overheated and turned itself off until it cooled down again (electronic overheat safety built in).

The agents wanted $450 for a new Hirschmann (?1989) but in the end it was flown to Melbourne where the Hirschmann agent repaired it for $75.

No wonder it went flat more quickly when left parked for two or three days than when driven regularly.

I hope your problem is simpler.

Bill
 
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Tony66_au

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Meh, 23 year old car will always have something niggly.

Id suggest radio on and doors wide open for hours will do the trick, and Id check and replace the copper or fibre seal on the sump plug.

As for the boot light? If its disconnected there is probably a reason, possibly a quick fix to a battery drain?

I spent a day chasing small issues with the Volvo I just got too and it has a very comprehensive service history.

Roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty Timmy! (Or buy some nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean)
 

E200K

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Roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty Timmy! (Or buy some nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean)


Tony's right, a 23-year-old car is bound to have a few niggles.

I told you that 200 Kompressor would keep your hands clean ;)

Don't get despondant, Tim, and dont panic into replacing parts or looking for an expensive fix straight away. Spend a bit of time getting some help to diagnose the problems. Then work out the most practical action.

It's all part of the fun of owning an "older" car.
 
OP
260ebenz

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Thanks very much guys as always I appreciate your opinion very valuable!

Refitted the battery again reconnected the positive and negative terminals the car alarm went off I knew it would I was told the alarm would go off once the battery was reconnected.

Switched off the alarm what the remote turned on the ignition and the 300SE fired into life my mate and I went for a drive no problems at all.

I left a sheet of newspaper under the car oil is not pouring out just a slow leak.

Going to see the Mechanic tomorrow ask him his opinion might be the oil seal that needs to be replaced? will wait and see what the Mechanic has to say.

Just drove the 300SE for 20mins, my Mum was in the passengers seat the car drove perfectly Mum very impressed with 300SE.

Had to re-enter to code for the radio thank goodness I have the code info here at home.

Checked the oil dipstick yesterday and this morning the oil level was perfect dipstick reading was on the MAX level which is very good to see.

As for the Warranty or follow-up assistance I am not sure I will have to speak to MB Spares in regards to the leak.

Cheers.
 
Last edited:
OP
260ebenz

260ebenz

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Older lol, Id say that Tims 260 would have been a similar age?

Correct Tony the 260E and 300SE are both a 1990 model.

Sorry Simon the 200 Kompressor to slow for my liking it has a 4cyl engine I personally would never buy a 4cyl MB engine again.

Cheers.
 
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260ebenz

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Cleaned out the battery terminal collection of leaves and debris and the terminal had a little amount of corrison around the terminal.

Sprayed the terminal with some rust converter and refitted the battery.
 

Styria

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Tim, it's less than a brilliant start. I am surprised that MB Spares would let a car go with an oil leak and disconnected boot light wiring. Regarding storage, I agree with Tony's post - never store batteries on concrete. Regarding charging battery - the only proper and most efficient way to charge a battery is by charger. A flat battery can take all day to charge whilst driving. Leaving on ignition is deadly for battery efficiency - especially if the battery is a little on the weak side. Regards Styria
 

Oversize

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Cleaned out the battery terminal collection of leaves and debris and the terminal had a little amount of corrison around the terminal.

Sprayed the terminal with some rust converter and refitted the battery.

Say what?? Try bicarb soda in boiling water.... Rinse off with plenty of clean water n smear on some Vaseline.
 

John Green

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Tim, it's less than a brilliant start. I am surprised that MB Spares would let a car go with an oil leak and disconnected boot light wiring. Regards Styria

It is kind of odd handling post sales issues in a public forum, but as Tim has put all of his adventures up for all to see I guess I will also put my reply here.

Hello Tim, sorry to hear the battery went flat. You are not the first person I know who has done that whilst detailing their car. The W126 with its courtesy lamps under each door trim as well as the front and rear interior lights can suck quite a bit of power. Not sure about the third generation cars but I know for sure on the first generation the courtesy lamps under the doors can’t be switched off using the front interior light switch. IMHO a design oversight on MB’s behalf.

But, that’s now solved. I have no idea how old the battery is, you might like to get your local Auto Electrician to load test the battery if you are unsure about its current (get it) condition. As for the battery clamp there is only supposed to be one, no idea why there are two bolt holes..

Must admit we didn’t check the boot lamp, and for that I apologize. Not on my mental list of things to check as opposed to things like the sunroof, cruise, elec windows, etc. Did open the boot and check the spare and tools, just never looked at the light. Not only that but at one stage there were four of us checking out the boot at Centennial park and even then no one noticed it. Quite happy to mail one to you including a new bulb no charge.

As for fluid leak, as advised there was a leak from the timing case cover, unfortunately a very common fault with the M103 engine. As you know we replaced the seals before sending it off for a Blue Slip inspection. Have a look to see if that is where the leak is. I checked it on the Thursday morning before driving up to deliver the car and was still dry. Or maybe the Yaris wet its pants when it saw your new car?

Radio code is correct, we checked it. (unlike the boot light)

Why do you want to fiddle with the modulator? From memory it drops into top on a light throttle between 50 - 60kmh which is the correct factory spec for this model. It is not a 2 minute job to change the shift points on the transmission, they are governed by the control cable and the modulator pressure. Sure you could make it change up earlier, but they it won’t kick down as easy?

As for warranty the NSW department of fair trade deems that if a car is over 10 years of age or has travelled over 160000kms there is no requirement for a statutory 3 month warranty. There has to be a line in the sand somewhere. That said, any company that values their reputation has a real tussle when it comes to warranty requests on cars that fall outside the statutory period/distance. The term we us is that a “HAND SHAKE” warranty is offered. Or to put it simply we agree to do whatever we reasonably can do to help out with problems.

As an example. Tim reported one of the electric window switches in the rear doors did not work by the time he got home. No problem we mailed him a used switch that we checked on another car and the piece of plastic trim that it sits in, just in case he broke his changing them over.

And yes, one subject at a time would be better.
 

Styria

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TK prides itself on being impartial, and free of undue outside influences. Tim's summation of his experiences with the new car are no different compared with what he has written about the car he once owned and sold to buy the 300SE. The number of posts are there for all to see, both on the old and the new car.

John, your contribution is welcomed as it possibly helps to explain some facets of the inconveniences that Tim is experiencing. There is certainly no intention to interfere with your reply in any way. Best Regards Styria
 
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