Pentrating oil?

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Styria

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Hi BenzBoy, I haven't tried it, nor have I ever known about this particular mixture, 'concoction'. It seems so much easier to spend five or six bucks on the recognized anti rust-seize pressure packs and just squeeze the button. Regards Styria
 

John S

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I have seen the test results for the various penetrating oils, and the acetone / ATF mix is half of penetrene and about 1/3 of WD40.
 
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BenzBoy

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I have seen the test results for the various penetrating oils, and the acetone / ATF mix is half of penetrene and about 1/3 of WD40.
John - what was the source for that test?
All I am able to find is the following which would seem to indicate that the ATF/acetone mix is the most effective.
> Following up on my adventure with the stuck brake
> disc bolts, here's some
> info I found in an article in the April/May 2007
> issue of Machinist's
> Workshop.
>
> They did a test to find the best penetrating oil.
> They artificially corroded
> a number of nuts / bolts so there were enough
> samples to try out the various
> penetrating oils on. The nuts/bolts were tested by
> soaking them in the
> penetrating oils for 12 hours. The load needed to
> break the nuts free was
> tested with a Baldwin compressometer. Here's the
> results ( lower number is
> better) :
>
> 50/50 mix of ATF & acetone - 53 Lbs
> Kroil - 106 Lbs ( this is what I used to removed
> the bleeders on my old
> 1975 Wing )
> Liquid wrench - 127 Lbs
> PB Blaster - 214 Lbs
> WD-40 - 238 Lbs
> None - 516 Lbs


and the old stand by - overn cleaner..
>
Regards,
Benz-Boy
 

Styria

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Well, that seems to be overwhelming evidence in favour of ATF/Acetone -what more can I say ? Regards Styria
 

Styria

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I am advised that an excellent penetrating oil can be made from one part ATF to one part acetone. Has anyone tried this recipe?
Regards,
Benz-Boy

Hi BenzBoy, have you used it yourself, or have you just read about it somewhere ? I note your summary and findings further on in the thread. Considering the possible side effects, is it worth taking the gamble, for one, and under what circumstances should one really need a mixture that could potentially be as lethal or damaging as this one ? In my experience, once the usual penetrating solutions available fail to perform the task, the item to be treated and removed is beyond saving in any case. Regards Styria
 
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BenzBoy

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Hi BenzBoy, have you used it yourself, or have you just read about it somewhere ? I note your summary and findings further on in the thread. Considering the possible side effects, is it worth taking the gamble, for one, and under what circumstances should one really need a mixture that could potentially be as lethal or damaging as this one ? In my experience, once the usual penetrating solutions available fail to perform the task, the item to be treated and removed is beyond saving in any case. Regards Styria

Dear Styria - Yes I have used it to help loosen bolts in a chassis rail. Such bolts had probably not been cracked in over seventy years. Far from being beyond use, the bolts were in excellent order once cleaned and greased.
Regards,
Benz-Boy
 

Styria

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Dear Styria - Yes I have used it to help loosen bolts in a chassis rail. Such bolts had probably not been cracked in over seventy years. Far from being beyond use, the bolts were in excellent order once cleaned and greased.
Regards,
Benz-Boy

Well, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and I certainly accept that. I sort of can't talk about chassis rails and bolts therein, but I can compare the method of securing, say, front guards between Mercedes and Rover Cars. Mercedes uses 10mm hex headed self tappers that are screwed into caged nuts, whereas Rover uses 7/16in. bolts that screw into nuts that are welded to the inner guard, and I must say that the Mercedes method has created problems as far as removal of bolts were concerned, despite the liberal application of penetrating oil - the one marketed by CRC. Regards Styria
 
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