A beginner's no frills oil change

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charlottesbutler

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My first oil and filter on the W116/M117 bought in April, now clocking 259K. Thought it might help another newby, in conjunction with the manual and other wiser counsel. Three pics added to Pbucket:

http://s1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/charlottesbutler/?action=view&current=Moleattack.jpg
http://s1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/charlottesbutler/?action=view&current=OilFilters.jpg
http://s1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/charlottesbutler/?action=view&current=Ramps.jpg

More available.

Cheers,
Rod
 

Oversize

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Well done Rod for having a go at this potentially messy job! Tips I'd offer are to make sure the engine is hot and try to keep the car fairly level. Remove the filter canister first and allow the galleries to drain. Then remove the sump plug and then clean the filter canister thoroughly (particularly the o ring groove) while you wait for the old oil to drain. Do not refit the sump plug (with new washer) until the old oil has stopped dripping. This could take a while, but is well worth the wait to ensure all the old oil has been removed. Never re-install a sump plug with a damaged thread as it will continue to damage the thread in the sump. Plus it's more likely to leak. If it's the first time you've changed the oil on your car, it's a good idea to have a new sump plug on hand.

If possible remove the filter element spring from the canister bolt and then withdraw the bolt. Replace the bolt with a new washer to ensure no leaks. Replace the o ring and smear a drip of oil over the top so it doesn't bind on the housing during reassembly. I like to install the filter element into the canister and prefill the canister with new oil. It can be messy, as the canister is far heavier when it's wet and very easy to spill the contents. It may also drip from the around the head of the bolt and new washer until it's reinstalled and tight. You'll find the element will soak up the oil initially and you might need to top up the canister with new oil until the level is stable near the top. I'd suggest not filling the canister completely as the new oil will go everywhere and you'll waste it (and it's usually not cheap)! Prefilling the canister primes the element and ensures the engine has an immediate supply of oil at start-up. You can also disconnect the igniter (by unplugging the thick green wire / black plug from the silver box bolted to the inside of the NSF guard) and crank it over for a little before start up to ensure you have good oil pressure before it fires. Hope this helps! :rolleyes:
 

Styria

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Ah, the vagaries of Photobucket. There is not a lot that remains the private property of the uploader - as witness the following picture....

450SEp001.jpg

Anyway, it's not a real worry unless, of course, you take pics that shouldn't be seen by anyone else. That's a nice looking car you've got there - I really like the colour of the interior, although the sound proofing on the floor has taken a real battering.

The procedure as outlined by Mark, is the most comprehesive in detail I have ever read, and certainly indicates the level of his experience and know-how. That's how I like doing it, especially the time given to drain all of the old oil - also make sure, that the oil is nice and hot when you start draining it. I don't know if Mark has mentioned that. Regards Styria
 

Lukas

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Speaking of oil changes - finally doing that on the other 6.9s, and noticed that on one of them the canister has a ~10x10cm picture on it of what the oil filter looks like, along with a part number. Did they all originally have that?

Thought it was neat.

Lukas
 
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charlottesbutler

charlottesbutler

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Hello all

Styria: I keep this album just for Benz discussion and a couple of overseas pals, so all is well, but yes, Pbucket seems to be getting very powerful. Very happy that you like the car. Thanks a lot. That floor pad has now gone, and a temporary Airstep and loose carpet allows work to be done on leaks and rust until I learn more.

Lukas: Haven't seen those packages at all. As to the 2 types from Ryco, the fatter one seems to offer more filtration area and volume. Is it that simple, or have I missed something?

Oversize: Thanks for the generous detail you have given. I really think owning one of these cars means getting stuck in; the enjoyment is double for doing so, and I am glad of the support offered here. I note the advice on prefilling the filter element - that was always a good practice with bikes I have owned - and the igniter wire too. I wonder what you think about a comment I found elsewhere that not doing so may also start the car up without the T chain tensioners primed and engaged, leading to possible tears later? Touch wood, mine seems to be OK so far.

Cheerio,
Rod
 

Lukas

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Hi Rod,

Sorry to confuse - by canister I meant the metal thing that contains the oil filter and is part of the car, not the filter itself.

Re the filter itself, I get them from US supplier Autohaus Arizona - even after postage cheaper than getting them here in Oz for me (450SEL 6.9s / M100 engine), and get a few at once, along with any other misc other parts that I may need at the time.

Lukas
 

Michel

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I keep this album just for Benz discussion and a couple of overseas pals, so all is well, but yes, Pbucket seems to be getting very powerful. Very happy that you like the car.
Rod

Photobucket is like all 'free' applications.
They work on the principle of traffic generated versus advertising cost of space on the page.
So, unless you dig and find out the level of security you wish to apply to your pics, the level of viewing us 'open to anyone'.

Regards from Orlando in Florida.
 
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charlottesbutler

charlottesbutler

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Lukas: thanks, I misread that last one. That is a neat idea; rather Japanese perhaps. Your advice on Autohaus is very encouraging, as I have seen their catalogue, but was wary of dealing with them at a distance. Now I feel OK about placing a few orders. They had a vac tester I should have liked, but I ended up making one. It would be good to replace all the vac line rubbers soon. I have to open my petrol flap manually from the boot.

Michel: No free lunches, are there? I've tried to be discreet with vin numbers etc, so perhaps there's no need to worry. Orlando, is it? I hope some of the theme rides are painted RED for you.

Cheerio,
Rod
 

Oversize

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Hi Lukas, yes I do believe they all had that picture and the part number on them. Even my Buick canister had one on it (same, but different)! I repainted the Buick canister a similar colour to the original green, but masked off the picture so it would be retained. During the prep I tried to sand off some surface rust with very fine wet n dry and didn't realise until too late that I was sanding off the top surface of the picture! Unfortunately the picture was screen printed the same colour as the rust... :eek:
 
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Tony66_au

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Gents, you do know you can set your folders in Photobucket to "private" and still share via link.

This allows you to share only what you post a link or IMG code for and photobucket also gives you the option to scramble file names so the more cluey amongst us cant guess at what the next number in the link sequence is.

Photobucket pro is also worth considering, I had a paid version for 5 or so years and the benefits were well worth it.

Hey Rod, Nice ramps mate.

I squished a "Bought" pair years ago with my W126 and made my own using 3mm angle steel and a far gentler angle of approach which worked well with the Benz and especially the old Jags.

Love your work!

Tony
 
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charlottesbutler

charlottesbutler

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This post had two objectives: I wanted to offer my approach to no frills service, and get feedback and advice on that. Thanks to all for the generous response. It was also an experiment in using PBucket pix as a medium. Some lessons were learned.

I will build a better ramp, which keeps the car as level as possible on my steep piece of land, and will need a little more height to allow my own sump pan to clear the number plate. I have all the necessary tools in a kit ready for the next change. A spare filter is on the shelf, to save waiting for special order. There has been very good advice about prefilling the cartridge with oil, and a mention of sparkless cranking before startup, to avoid stress on valve gear, pump and so on.

Oil brand and grade was Castrol Magnatec, and I can hear someone flinching already. Availability, following what was already in there, its popularity with more than a few forum members, and my own assessment of climate, expected mileage and light duty; all these influenced me. Hope I shall not regret it.

I have followed all the discussion on additives such as molybdenum and ZDDP, including users' opinions, a column by Bob the Oil Guy, numerous reports from boffins in lab coats - all available on the net - and advice from my trusted oil man in the local store, who guides me on tractors, mowers, bikes and cars, and has usually been right. I reject most of the additives as mere snake oil; detergents which should already be in the oil if needed. I reluctantly reject ZDDP because of its demonstrated capacity to damage catalytic converters, even though a new cat beats having to do a top end repair. Also, I have yet to find anyone in the car trade along Bass Coast who has heard of it or who cares. Odd, given the experience of owners in, say, West Oz. The Mustang club in the USA seems ambivalent, and has in any case the choice of one oil brand which still has ZDDP as an ingredient. So do numerous diesel oils, but the white coat brigade warn that factors such as 'shear', built into those oils, will suit a high compression, low rev engine, but may not do well in a lower compression, freer spinning engine such as the M117. Looks like moly will do.

I freely admit that I know very little about this important topic, but have tried to do balanced research, and would hate to do damage to my motor through ignorance. If a LOCAL member has a clearer view of things, please let me know. Because of availability issues, US and UK guidance may not be as helpful. Thanks all.

Cheerio,
Rod.
 
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