It doesn't allow the spring to act as a torsion bar as designed but it does stop the end from flapping around.
I was faced with this prospect last weekend with one broken spring when I added some padding to my drivers seat.
I know that welding or brazing will affect the temper so I did a similar fix using some old steel fuel line from my 1938 Ford V8. I cut a much longer length than he used (the full length of the straight broken section) and forced it over one end, pulled the other broken end laterally until it slipped into the tube and then crimped the tube with vice-grips to stop it from slipping off either end.
Looks a little more elegant than the "tie-wire" method.
I didn't photograph it as the length of fuel line looked pretty ordinary but the seat squab is definitely better supported and easy enough to repair if it ever lets go.
Another option might be to solder a clean new length of tube but crimping at least allows some rotational movement.
I would be interested in Park's opinion on how to repair this common fault.
you can actually get a tool that crimps a clip around the broken part, there isnt a really fool proof way of fixing the problem so basically solutions like this isnt that bad, so basically whatever works then go for it
you can actually get a tool that crimps a clip around the broken part, there isnt a really fool proof way of fixing the problem so basically solutions like this isnt that bad, so basically whatever works then go for it
I have just learnt that you can use a 123 seat base in a 126, mounting holes etc are the same - I wonder if the 116 is similar, or if the 116 and 126 bases will swap across too?
There should be more no sag 126 bases around than 116's, so if they fit it would only mean having to swap the leather across to the "new" base.