Which W107 model?

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clement

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Hi people!!,

I am looking at getting a w107 soon,
just doing some research before purchasing one.

Which model of the w107 is best to buy and what to look for, common problems, etc etc.

thanks in advance.

Been looking at carsales.com.au , and if anyone of you guys out there with experience and would like to give me a hand please feel free to let me know. Theres rewards! Hahahaha.

regards,
Clement
 

Michel

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Hi people!!,
I am looking at getting a w107 soon,
just doing some research before purchasing one.
Which model of the w107 is best to buy and what to look for, common problems, etc etc.
thanks in advance.
Been looking at carsales.com.au , and if anyone of you guys out there with experience and would like to give me a hand please feel free to let me know. Theres rewards! Hahahaha.
regards,
Clement

Hi Clement,

As you probably know there are many different versions of the 107 -- 280/350/380/450/500, etc....

And although these are engine based differences, the biggest one to consider first is whether you want an SL (convertible) or and SLC (coupe).

The SLCs are usually much cheaper to obtain as the SLs are more coveted due to the fact they are convertibles and as such have a bigger following.

The other thing to look at is the generational change.

Aside from the 280SL/SLC which are not very common and had a six cylinder, early 107s had the iron blocks 350/450 while the latter ones had the alloy engines 380/500/560.
 

John S

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With the W107's, rule #1, #2 & #3 is no rust!!!!! (Unfortunately a difficult, but not impossible rule to meet)

Have it inspected by a Mercedes expert for both the body and the mechanical bits, the suspension, engine & drive train. Don't forget that the rubber bushes, seals etc deteriorate over the 30 odd years since they were new.

You will enjoy driving a good W107, and they are still around to find.
 
OP
C

clement

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Thanks for reply guys,

Any one seen a good one for grabs in Perth?

Also any old forum users that are selling their project car or restored or half finish project that just need a little more touch to it please do let me know.

I am looking for one to be a gift to my mother as her birthday present, she loves it and I want to surprise her.

I have no prior knowledge to the W107s and I am still trying to get all the specs, models, differences etc etc.

If any of you guys are from Perth please do help me out to sort one out.

Cheers in advance and have a good weekend,

regards,
clement
 

John S

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If it's for your mother look for the 380 or 560 model in original condition, they have the alloy motors and the later improved gearbox.

As with all Mercedes, it's best to look for the last of any series as all the minor glitches should have been eliminated over the previous years.
 

B13

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The 380SL seems to be the bargain at the moment with the most of them available to choose from on the used market and seems to be asking around the same price as a 450SL which is a much older car.

I'm looking to buy an SL at the end of the year and my preference is for the 560SL, but its out of my budget (over $30K), so a 450 or 380SL ($20-$25K) will be what I'm looking for. Other more curious models seem to attract more or less $... a 350SL, the earliest incarnation of the R107, seems to attract under $20K for the standard auto box cars or much over $30K for a 4 speed manual car. The 280SL is very rare in Australia and regularly pulls over $25K when you can find them, same goes for the odd 300SL (R107 with M103 engine). The 500SL which was sold alongside the 380SL commands lots of $ because apparently its rare and can out-run a 560SL, but its a leaded-petrol only engine...

If your mum drives long distances she might be best off with a 300SL (6cyl) or 380SL (small V8). I don't drive huge distances so I don't mind the cast-orgin 450 V8 and 3 speed auto...

I.
 

motec 6.9

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Hi Clement there is a couple off 380sl for sale in Perth on carpoint for 14000 and 15000 and 3 500sl in Perth on carpoint starting at 28000 all with under 115000km the one at 28000 has the Rego Starshop1 does this car belong to the star shop in osbourne park that that Dr Bill is friends with as his car is on web page:)
 

TJ 450

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The silver one looks like it could be a good buy, as it's a Euro import. Look out for rust though.

Tim
 

Tony66_au

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Im in the same boat as Clement gents and im currently researching options etc.

Im after an SLC (Hardtop) for Jenn (And me) preferably a 450 which I thought were Iron block/Alloy head engines?

And apart from rust what other common issues am I likely to find.

For the record im looking to buy something in the latter half of the year.

Cheers,
Tony
 

SEL_69L

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Clement: John S is 1000% right! I have seen some very sad cases of 107's with rust. Because of this, you will have to resign yourself to a thorough check for rust in any 107 you may consider. Join the MB Club of Western Australia and seek out members who have had considerable time of ownership of one.

As a financial advisor once told me:
"Hasten slowly"

Ancient chinese proverb:
"Cheap is not cheap, expensive is not expensive".
 

Michel

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I'm looking to buy an SL at the end of the year and my preference is for the 560SL, but its out of my budget (over $30K), so a 450 or 380SL ($20-$25K) will be what I'm looking for. Other more curious models seem to attract more or less $... a 350SL, the earliest incarnation of the R107, seems to attract under $20K for the standard auto box cars or much over $30K for a 4 speed manual car. The 280SL is very rare in Australia and regularly pulls over $25K when you can find them, same goes for the odd 300SL (R107 with M103 engine). The 500SL which was sold alongside the 380SL commands lots of $ because apparently its rare and can out-run a 560SL, but its a leaded-petrol only engine...
I.

Ian,

I agree on the power... it is awesome!
BUT, I thought all Benzes would run on unleaded petrol without any damage?
 

Styria

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You are quite correct, Michel. Some eighteen months to two years ago, one of the technical advisors in Germany did in fact respond that all Mercedes Benzes post 1960 (?) will run on unleaded as long as it is rated at Ron 98. He also suggested, if memory serves me right, that an additive would not go atray. Someone may have more accurate information to what I have provided now. Regards Styria
 

Styria

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Hi Tony, you have dug up an old thread, although quite appropriate given the fact that you are thinking of buying one 'sometime down the track'. I must admit to having taken an absolute liking to Michel's 500SL AMG and it has completely turned around my opinions regarding various aspects of 107 ownership - not that I have ever owned one. I am not all that fond of the 380 - I drove an SLC model for about a hundred kilometers up to the Central Coast and back and my main criticism relates to the relative lack of 'flywheel momentum". There was no easy cruising gait on the Freeway, unless you got to the 4000 rpm mark but, at those engine revolutions, you're way above the legal road speed. Restricting the engine to 110 kms/hour resulted in a numb right leg and posteria. I was glad I got to my destination and hand back the car. Regards Styria

N.B. BTW, I wonder whatever happened to our friend Clement ? Did he find the car of his dreams - he hasn't been on topklasse since. The internet sure is strange.
 
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Tony66_au

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Strange indeed Styria, I think it may be the sheer amount of MB forums out there and that forums such as this one tend to appear "Slower" than say Benzworld in answering questions.

That said the larger forums also have their quirks and although i do research across the forums i find that a local forum although slower to answer does give far more relevant information.

Considering we have Euro spec cars here my understanding is that there are too many differences in these old bangers to rely solely on US based information and although i am reading about 107's on 3 different forums I will ask my questions here and be happy to receive an answer that is possibly more relevant to my marketplace.

What would be nice though is a blow by blow buyers guide to both the 116 and 107 chassis Benz for Australia and for dummies assuming the worst of us all lol


Anyway to aide that end here my golden generic rules for buying Euro cars.

Service history of any sort is a must on a high ticket item.

Coolant is a must and research to ensure correct type.

Panel rust is no biggie for me as I can weld lots as opposed to weld well lol

Paint condition unimportant but is a fair indicator of age and treatment.

No working aircon or heating = parts car and a price to match ($500 plus transport MAX)

Owner under 30 = Parts car and priced accordingly

Doof doof sound system = owner under 30 = parts car etc etc = swap you for a slab of beer or $500.

Always look under the car, bring a good torch preferably a quality LED light source.

Oil weeping from drive train/Diff/bellhousing = abuse so haggle accordingly or apply parts car rule.

Check for structural cracks, accident damage and miss coloured/shaded panels and price accordingly.

Always check the engine oil dipstick and underside of the oil filler cap for condense or yoghurt. (Yoiplat is French for blown head gasket)

Always check the service sticker, this tells you when, where and how the car was last serviced. Compare to odometer reading as if the owner cant be buggered doing 10k oil and filter then he sure as hell wont bother with timing belts/chains and the other important bits.

Never EVER inspect a wet car or a car in less than full sunlight.

With a performance car a cursory check for feathered rear tyres (Burnouts) and ball rubber on rear 1/4's and wheel arches plus check front tyres for scrub and alignment issues.

Test drive if possible or price accordingly.

Never buy a car in parts unless you just need the car parts.

You don't have to be the sellers friend and they are rarely your friend so behave accordingly and if you cant grow a pair then take someone to moderate potentially silly actions as this is a business transaction.

Never be afraid to walk away, there's ALWAYS another one just around the corner.

And for me if a car is less than $2500.00 im happy to buy sight unseen but over 5k deserves an inspection.

I have more but they are a but hard bitten and cynical, well more cynical lol.

Cheers,
Tony
 
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