OP
BenzBoy
Grand Master
- Thread Starter
- #81
Here you go Tim, m'lad.... http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/einszett_1z/rubber_care_stick_gumme_pfledge
Regards,
Brian
Regards,
Brian
TK's top 10 detailing tips for Tim.
- Thread starter BenzBoy
- Start date
Brian thanks very much mate that's great!
Autobarn are running a promo on AG and it's 20% off excellent here I come Autobarn!
Thanks for that info Simon.
Great Auto Pro sell AG products myself and the Battleship will be making a maiden voyage there this week.
See what you think of Auto Pro's prices for these 3 AG products?
I have used these AG products as below before and have been impressed with end results.
1. AG SRP- Super Resin Polish 325ml bottle $27 and for a 1ltr bottle of AG SRP $52.
2. AG Glass Polish $18.
3. AG Car Wash Shampoo $18.
See what you think of Auto Pro's prices for these 3 AG products?
I have used these AG products as below before and have been impressed with end results.
1. AG SRP- Super Resin Polish 325ml bottle $27 and for a 1ltr bottle of AG SRP $52.
2. AG Glass Polish $18.
3. AG Car Wash Shampoo $18.
Last edited:
Tim, if you're going to use SRP then try topping it off with Extra Gloss Protection. It works really well with SRP.
SEL_69L
Aristocrat
All of the ideas put forward in their context so far have good merit.
Actually for my drive car, which remains out in the weather all of the time, I have used a different approach altogether to keep it clean.
Now retired, I detailed new cars for delivery for about 8 years.
I still have access to a water blaster. Essential to remove most dirt from paint and in the wheel arches, where rust quite often appears first. Standing instructions for Army vehicles is to water blast them at every opportinity to remove mud, because it will lead to a shorter chassis life if it is not removed.
Same applies the wheel arches in domestic vehicles.
Sometimes, when road grime builds up on the lower exterior painted panels of a car, water blasting will not remove all of it. In this case, I use a lean mixture of shapoo and a clean sponge. For the rest of the car I just use plain clean water and a sponge, then blast again.
I clay block all of the exterior paint while it is still wet, give it a quick blast again, then chamois.
I haven't used polish for about three years now, but apply a paint sealant that is not sold domestically. There is a guarantee that is supposed to last for a year, but I think that claim is garbage. I use paint sealant three times a year: just before summer, 2 to 3 months after that, then during winter sometime. If the car is always garaged, then perhaps the year long guarantee may be OK.
If I want a really top class shine over the paint sealant, I use a creme canuba wax. Only my 6.9 receives THAT treatment.
I would image that if the car is always garaged and polish is used only, without the paint sealant, to maintain a top shine, then polish would have to be applied every 3 or 4 months. My drive car, if it is lucky, will get polished once a year, just before summer.
If the car gets dirty between applications of paint sealant , I just water blast it. Almost all dirt, because it cannot stick to the paint, just flies off, leaving a perfectly clean paint surface. Such an approach without the use of any shampoo, extends the life of the paint sealant. I just lightly trail a chamois over the paint, then straight back onto the road. Such a quick clean job takes only 5 minutes or so.
Even when my drive car is dirty, water always forms in large beads on the paint during rain, as if it has just been polished. I would believe that the paint sealant that I use will considerably extend the life of the clear topcoat. The car is now 13 years old, and the topcoat shows no signs of deterioration at all.
Water blasting the tyres prepares them nicely for the application of tyre shine. I never use this stuff anywhere on any of my cars. Yuch!
I use a two horse power industrial vacuum cleaner the extract all dirt from the boot and interior of the car. This mean machine can be rather noisy to use, as you may well imagine. Both the water blaster and vacuum cleaner are noisy enough for the use of ear muffs.
I DO NOT use the water blaster in the engine bay of my 6.9; it is just too powerful. A low power domestic blaster with the power turned way down, with a trace of non alkaline degreaser added to the jet, is a much kinder way to go. That will get into all of the hard to reach places in the 6.9 engine bay.
Actually for my drive car, which remains out in the weather all of the time, I have used a different approach altogether to keep it clean.
Now retired, I detailed new cars for delivery for about 8 years.
I still have access to a water blaster. Essential to remove most dirt from paint and in the wheel arches, where rust quite often appears first. Standing instructions for Army vehicles is to water blast them at every opportinity to remove mud, because it will lead to a shorter chassis life if it is not removed.
Same applies the wheel arches in domestic vehicles.
Sometimes, when road grime builds up on the lower exterior painted panels of a car, water blasting will not remove all of it. In this case, I use a lean mixture of shapoo and a clean sponge. For the rest of the car I just use plain clean water and a sponge, then blast again.
I clay block all of the exterior paint while it is still wet, give it a quick blast again, then chamois.
I haven't used polish for about three years now, but apply a paint sealant that is not sold domestically. There is a guarantee that is supposed to last for a year, but I think that claim is garbage. I use paint sealant three times a year: just before summer, 2 to 3 months after that, then during winter sometime. If the car is always garaged, then perhaps the year long guarantee may be OK.
If I want a really top class shine over the paint sealant, I use a creme canuba wax. Only my 6.9 receives THAT treatment.
I would image that if the car is always garaged and polish is used only, without the paint sealant, to maintain a top shine, then polish would have to be applied every 3 or 4 months. My drive car, if it is lucky, will get polished once a year, just before summer.
If the car gets dirty between applications of paint sealant , I just water blast it. Almost all dirt, because it cannot stick to the paint, just flies off, leaving a perfectly clean paint surface. Such an approach without the use of any shampoo, extends the life of the paint sealant. I just lightly trail a chamois over the paint, then straight back onto the road. Such a quick clean job takes only 5 minutes or so.
Even when my drive car is dirty, water always forms in large beads on the paint during rain, as if it has just been polished. I would believe that the paint sealant that I use will considerably extend the life of the clear topcoat. The car is now 13 years old, and the topcoat shows no signs of deterioration at all.
Water blasting the tyres prepares them nicely for the application of tyre shine. I never use this stuff anywhere on any of my cars. Yuch!
I use a two horse power industrial vacuum cleaner the extract all dirt from the boot and interior of the car. This mean machine can be rather noisy to use, as you may well imagine. Both the water blaster and vacuum cleaner are noisy enough for the use of ear muffs.
I DO NOT use the water blaster in the engine bay of my 6.9; it is just too powerful. A low power domestic blaster with the power turned way down, with a trace of non alkaline degreaser added to the jet, is a much kinder way to go. That will get into all of the hard to reach places in the 6.9 engine bay.
Thanks alot guys your advice is very appreciated many thanks!
Today I have washed off the mud from the front MB mudflaps, mud up the side of the side mouldings and the wheels end result NO more mud!
I do my best NOT to drive thru puddles of water when parking in the carpark at the beach.
I polished the alloy wheels in fact the R/H drivers side alloy wheel has brake dust dreaded stuff it is I can not get the brake dust off!
I washed the alloy wheels first with AG car shampoo then dried the alloys.
How can I remove the brake dust? just the R/H drivers side alloy is the worst.
I am going to start on the door jams and hinges just as long as the weather stays fine like it is today.
More pre-Concours cleaning to do the BIG is fast approaching!
Cheers guys.
Today I have washed off the mud from the front MB mudflaps, mud up the side of the side mouldings and the wheels end result NO more mud!
I do my best NOT to drive thru puddles of water when parking in the carpark at the beach.
I polished the alloy wheels in fact the R/H drivers side alloy wheel has brake dust dreaded stuff it is I can not get the brake dust off!
I washed the alloy wheels first with AG car shampoo then dried the alloys.
How can I remove the brake dust? just the R/H drivers side alloy is the worst.
I am going to start on the door jams and hinges just as long as the weather stays fine like it is today.
More pre-Concours cleaning to do the BIG is fast approaching!
Cheers guys.
SEL_69L
Aristocrat
I have water blasted door jambs and around the doors once only on my 6.9.
I picked a hot day, and drove the car some distance immediately afterwards.
This was done once only, as a rust preventative.
When the car was bone dry, I used a spray can with epoxy / fish oil, with the extension tube, and treated the inside of the doors, through the drain holes.
The door jambs were cut back with 400 grade cutting creme to refresh the colour, and then paint sealed and polished.
About a week later Styria filled a paint spray can with epoxy / fish oil and sprayed everywhere that he could, to get at all of the hiden surfaces of the bodywork. The car was still draining fish oil an hour later and it smelt for 3 months, but it was worth it. There has been no sign of rust in the areas treated.
Some work was required to treat a small hole in the firewall some years later, but I could not fix that pre rusted hole in the first place. I needed Styria's help to fix this problem. All good now.
I picked a hot day, and drove the car some distance immediately afterwards.
This was done once only, as a rust preventative.
When the car was bone dry, I used a spray can with epoxy / fish oil, with the extension tube, and treated the inside of the doors, through the drain holes.
The door jambs were cut back with 400 grade cutting creme to refresh the colour, and then paint sealed and polished.
About a week later Styria filled a paint spray can with epoxy / fish oil and sprayed everywhere that he could, to get at all of the hiden surfaces of the bodywork. The car was still draining fish oil an hour later and it smelt for 3 months, but it was worth it. There has been no sign of rust in the areas treated.
Some work was required to treat a small hole in the firewall some years later, but I could not fix that pre rusted hole in the first place. I needed Styria's help to fix this problem. All good now.
Jam comes in a glass jar; strawberry, ginger and pear, apricot and marmalade: jamb is the join where the door meets the body of the car.
Regards,
Brian
Ps: tomato jam is good too on buttered toast.
Door jambs got that Brian thanks mate.
Strawberry, ginger, pear, apricot and marmalade very nice on toast and so is tomato yummy!
All this talk of food is making me hungry time for dinner!
You guys ought to be institutionalised....
yaeh - it's called tk house.
hahahahahahaha
You guys ought to be institutionalised....
'TK funny farm', where do we sign?! lol.
Just Brian and myself as residents of the TK funny farm anyone else?
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