Pictorial - Rear End Rebuild Part 6 - Torqueing rear hub

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WGB

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I have been very apprehensive about torqueing up these rear hubs due to reports of disasters from others so I have requested advice wherever it was available and two pieces of really useful advice came my way.

1) S class said my hub might deform if I tried to torque up the crush ring without adequate support.

2) RonB from M-100.cc and Styria both said that if the hub had not been tampered with and had normal clearance the original crush ring is usually re-used as it has the correct clearance anyway.

My RH hub appeared original with no real wear so I decided to re-use that crush washer - it measured 11.45 mm vs a new crush washer at 12.15 mm and made for a very sweet tighten up with just a little resistance at the end of the tighten as the crush ring came into play. The final clearance was 0.05 mm and I left it at that as I had not tapped on the caliper carrier and was worried that the impact of this would have an affect on the crush washer but it made no difference.

The LH hub had no clearance at all when removed from the car. The nut had only been lightly peened and there appeared to be 2 or 3 times more grease in the hub than recommended. As well the inner part of the hub had been heated as it was "blued" so I assume the bearings had been replaced. The crush ring measured 11.40 mm so I elected to use a new crush ring.

I tried to measure the torque required to crush the crush washer but my Torque wrench only goes up to 205 Nm (150 Ft lb). My guess is that it crushes at about 250 Nm as I could get it to turn with the torque wrench but it was easier with the 1 metre ratchet you can see in the pictures.

With this ratchet I could pull the bar towards me using my biceps only so long as I steadied the socket with my Left Hand and kept it all square. If the pull became even slightly off the square it was too tough to pull.

In the end it was a smooth pull down to get the correct 0.04 mm end float.

I made this holding device by using one of the old discs, grinding the protruding part of the drum flat where the bar crosses it and welding the bar with my MIG to the disc itself.

HubCarrier1.jpg

I then bolted the disc onto the hub in reverse using some old wheel bolts that I had - the washers are there because the bolts were a little too long.

HubCarrier2.jpg

And then the bar is locked in the vise.

HubCarrier3.jpg

As I decided to re-use my old spacer in the right hand hub which I already partially completed I had to push the two halves apart again using my little press and the ever useful 24mm socket which fits neatly into the end of the axle.

Pressinmghubhalfsapart.jpg

Here is the LH hub as pulled apart with it's original crush ring still in position.

LHhubwithcrushring.jpg

The carrier has another useful function and that is that it gives a very stable position to mount the dial gauge.

DialGauge1.jpg

The hub is slowly torqued up and checked several times at each position with the hub turned several times between each measurement.

DialGauge4.jpg

In both hubs I left a little clearance before I replaced the diff carrier just in case it affected the crush washer - but on both sides it didn't.

The diff carrier was fitted with it's protective cover and snap ring.

Then the final torque was done and the nut was peened to lock it.

FinishedJob.jpg


The relief was measurable and at this stage I went on a painting binge.

Allthebitsgettingpainted.jpg

Bill
 
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