Pictorial - Rear End Rebuild Part 4 - Rusted rear discs

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WGB

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Success!!!!

I heated the area of the disc that is normally behind the wheel near the junction between the disc and the hub without applying heat direct to the hub.

Removingrusteddisc1.jpg

I was surprised how little heat was transferred to the hub itself - not worried as I am replacing the hub bearings anyway.

Then two or three solid hits on the disc itself through the hole in the backing plate left by the absent calliper with this maul dislodged both sides quite easily

Removingrusteddisc2.jpg

Voila - only took 20 minutes after 2 days of stuffing around.

Removingrusteddisc4.jpg

Removingrusteddisc3.jpg

The discs themselves appear unmarked and I have left them to cool slowly. I will check them for run out when they have cooled and decide on whether I use them again or not.

Bill

PS I decided not to re-use these discs as a new pair were only $110 (The pair) and they will be replaced with some anti-seize compound between hub and disc.
The principle rust point seems to be the join between disc and hub near the centre of the disc.
 
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Oversize

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I normally spray WD40 around the wheel nut holes & around the hub centre. After letting it soak for a little while, I belt the face of the hub / rotor with a large hammer. This usually dislodges the rotor from the hub. However, if it's all badly rusted, you many have no choice but to resort to these measures.

Well done on tackling such a large job yourself and thanks very much for the comprehensive posts! Looks like replacing the bearings was very involved & not something to be attempted by the faint-hearted.... :eek:

Hoping you can post more pics as you replace all the bushes!
 

Styria

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Hi Bill - just a query. How much would one charge for 'stuffing around for two days' ? Say if you took the car to a mechanic and he'd jack up car, remove wheel, spent some time on trying to dislodge the disc rotor, but not succeed in getting the disc off - should there be a charge for that ?

Are you also going to replace the hand brake shoes ? Have you ever replaced those previously ? I find it to be a very awkward job. Regards Styria
 
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WGB

WGB

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Hi Styria,

I would hate to be in your position of trying to make an honest living out of keeping old cars going through their relatively unloved stage on the road.

I spent 3 days trying to remove those discs with WD40 and bashing s$$t out of the rear in all directions - but only an hour or two each day, not three full days, and fortunately (or unfortunately) I have never made a red cent out of any car I have ever owned or repaired, only immense satisfaction.

I was really p@@@@ed off with these discs as although they were rusty the foot brake and handbrake was perfect and there was plenty of meat left on the disc. The handbrake shoes are discoloured but have near new levels of lining depth. As I am replacing the discs ($110 the pair) I have purchased a new set of handbrake linings as well ($55) to keep all new.

I too hate relining drum brakes but as I started my DIY career with these and more particularly the twin trailing shoe Rover 90 front brakes on my father's car I have some expertise and a special tool to stretch the springs which I found about 40 years ago when these brakes were common.

Bill
 
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