Seized rear brake caliper

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Styria

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I am looking for guidance or suggestions how to remove seized brake Caliper pistons from their respective bodies. Compressed Air would normally be sufficient. Whilst I have not tried that as yet, I am extremely doubtful that this will prove the solution. One could also try to pressure pump grease through the calipers, but that's absolutely messy and time consuming to clean up.

Anyone have any suggestions how to remove the Pistons without breaking the dust excluder grooves ? Regards. Styria
 
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CraigS

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You have pretty much covered the options, although it does help when using compressed air to have someone belt the outside of the caliper with a big hammer as you are doing this, and plenty of WD40 to keep it lubricated.
 

Michel

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When in doubt, use a bigger hammer :eek:
 

Helmet

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You could try
Warm them in an old frying pan for 10-15 mins , then try the compressed air.
What model are they off ?
 
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Styria

Styria

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Helmet, so far you are the closest. The car involved is a 450SE. Regards Styria
 
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Styria

Styria

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Well, it looks as though there are no more smart ideas forthcoming. I was a little apprehensive when assessing the task on hand - Caliper pistons can be very stubborn, and one just needs to be so careful not to damage any of the components, particularly the dust seal retaining groove. I have broken them before (on Girling Pistons fitted to Rovers), and it's always a hassle finding a replacement.

Anyway, to my procedure and the solution I arrived at. Having removed the Caliper from the wheel assembly, copious quantities of degreaser and penetrating oil failed to move the Pistons. I had disassembled the two Caliper halves, and even the use of two heavy duty screwdrivers failed to have any impact. Okay, what next ? I decided to let the car do the heavy work - make sense ? I reconnected the Caliper to the car's braking system and hit the brake pedal hard a few times. Slowly but surely the Pistons moved to the extent where I would be confident of achieving removal on the bench. When pressurising the system to extract the Pistons, you will need to ensure that neither of the two is ejected completely from the bore. If one comes out too far, you can no longer pressurise the calipers.

Okay, now it was bench time again, but still I could not completely withdraw them. I was worried that the screwdriver efforts might result in damage, thus what next ? It was time to apply some gentle gas flame around the Caliper area, more screwdriver efforts and hey presto - two Pistons. In summary, I would recommend to let the car do the work - without that help, I am sure the Pistons would still be stuck in the Caliper halves. Regards. Styria
 

CraigS

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Frankly, if it was that stuck, I would have not bothered with it and bought another second hand one.
 

Michel

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Well done Godfather.
 

CraigS

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At how much per hour that he is charging the customer ? Unless it was for your own car, it would be false economy to persevere under such circumstances. Personally, I favour my approach to finding a suitable replacement.
 
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Styria

Styria

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First of all, having removed the caliper from the car, this meant that I was without transport. One could argue that I should not have driven the car in the first place - however, the service of picking up the car from its owner and then test driving it under every day circumstances, is not a service offered by too many repairers, but it provides me with an opportunity to assess the condition of the car and convey my findings to the owner,and, whatsmore, there is no charge to the owner for my time to pick up, petrol costs of being driven there - hmm...a pretty fair deal. Right, as I said, I was without transport stuck at Glenorie, with the nearest wrecker being at Parramatta.

So, say I trot off to the wrecker. At least an hour in travelling time - well, more than likely closer to an hour and a half, and then having to wait for the required part to be found, and then there is every chance that the replacement item would have been no better, and how much would the wrecker have charged ? $50.00, $80.00 ? Plus travelling time ? Or, alternatively, had I ordered the part over the phone, I would have had to wait for God knows how long (next day perhaps ?), no transport, really......

Absolutely, the way I handled this was by far the best and most efficient and money saving way. Regards Styria

I know which was the better solution for the owner of the car.
 
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abl567

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"I know which was the better solution for the owner of the car"

Agreed, and the car is still "matching numbers" :D
 
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Styria

Styria

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It is probably a little unfortunate that this thread has become paramount to having to justify my procedure on a dollar cost justification. What I had really aimed for was to describe an alternative in dealing with this particular Caliper removal procedure. I had not previously tried the method of "utilising the car's braking system" itself to assist in the removal or loosening of the Pistons from the Caliper housing, and I figured "why not try it". It's obvious that my newly tried experiment was a complete success and I really wanted to share it with my fellow TK members.

Come to think of it, this will be the procedure I will employ at future times. Hang the additional expense. :D. I should also add that I utilise a special Caliper assembly oil to facilitate the insertion of the Pistons to their respective housing halves. Regards. Styria
 

Helmet

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I believe this thread shows the importance of changing brake fluid. I was just commenting to my younger staff the other week that since we do regular brake fluid changes we rarely see seized or leaking brake callipers / worn master cylinders any more. I am speaking over a 20 + year period.
 

Oversize

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Good idea! Pull the pads and let the hydraulics do the work... Better still have the engine running for full pressure. Of course the one that's not seized will pop first, so you'll have to hold that one in place to get the others moving
 

BenzBoy

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I believe this thread shows the importance of changing brake fluid. I was just commenting to my younger staff the other week that since we do regular brake fluid changes we rarely see seized or leaking brake callipers / worn master cylinders any more. I am speaking over a 20 + year period.
How often do you recommend Helmut?
Regards,
Brian
 
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Styria

Styria

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Good idea! Pull the pads and let the hydraulics do the work... Better still have the engine running for full pressure. Of course the one that's not seized will pop first, so you'll have to hold that one in place to get the others moving

Mark, that's exactly what I did - engine running, hard jabs on the brake pedal, and two large spanners (for the want of proper tools) interposed between the Pistons to stop them from coming out completely. It works great. Regards. Styria
 

sean sherry

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I wonder if part of this issue is down to an improvement in the Brake Fluid ?
Is it now less hydrostatic.? Is the current Manufacture's requirement of a 3 years change a bit of an over kill ?
What comes to mind is the 6 month Oil change from Subaru, Toyota, etc.
Most of the rest of the World these Cars are 12 months and for some ,15000 miles.
An upsell opportunity perhaps.
 
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