The price of Engine Oil

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Tony66_au

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So it does!

Just as well I only use Slick50 then eh?

BTW Ive used their Honey and worn engine treatment over extended periods and it works quite well.

My old Ex Daily driver 3.5 Rangie is still alive today because of or in-spite of the Honey and Worn clunker saviour lol

And before you ask? I used Nulon because Slick50 doesnt do magic restorations and because its too expensive to use on a clunker I needed to squeeze a few thousand more Km from.

I ended up getting another 15000 km out of the old girl BTW and she still does paddock duty when she isnt bogged.
 

Tony66_au

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In my early days as a mechanic I partially rebuilt my brothers engine (with the block still in the car), replacing the rings and giving the bore a hone. Despite my best efforts, I couldn't achieve the nice uniform cross-hatching that I'd seen in books and pictures. Sure enough, it didn't take long for the thing to start blowing smoke again and my brother sold the car. Even though it was a Holden (VC Commodore) I did try to fix it!!!

Tony you seem to know much about the subject, so can you please explain how cross-hatching is achieved? I tried with an electric drill and honing stones. It's that long ago that I can't remember if I used the thing that looks like a toilet brush (mental block for the name)... What I do remember is that I couldn't get the speed of the drill, or the speed of penetration correct... And that it drove me nuts for hours as I didn't know what I was doing wrong. Thinking about it now, I should've got the answers before I tackled the job. It definitely wasn't a case of she'll be right!!!

Sure,

2 common types of bore hones.

The cheapy is the spring and centrifugal hone which uses whetstones, these things are great for brake master cylinders but lousy for engine cylinder walls because they smooth the surface rather than roughen it.

The toilet brush type or Dunny Brush hone is much more expensive and has a limited diameter use although the 100mm brush will do most common 6 and 8 cylinder engines and this is the best type to use.

The thing is neither will create cross hatching on the bore.

As a matter of course id always send engine blocks to my favourite machinists (Orgers) for a hot tank, linebore and hone.

And it was there that I was shown (By Lindsey) how it all works.

The cross hatching pattern is machined into the bore when its on the mill.

Hones will merely clean the bore and accentuate any remaining cross hatching.

I have seen hand tools that will score the bore as well as modified whetstone units with carborundum stones that have industrial diamonds but I cant see this as a proper way to score a bore.

Simple!

Tony
 
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Styria

Styria

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OK -I guess I don't understand what you mean then - :eek:
Regards,
Brian

I don't blame you BenzBoy - I have now rectified this anomaly, or done away with the confusion. Regards Styria
 

Tony66_au

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By the bye, Id like to clarify that I am not a qualified Motor mechanic or TA.

So the opinions and information I post are just that of a bloke who has had his hands dirty a bit and employed qualified Mechanics and as such I've had to think outside the box a bit to get the job done and I am happy to share my experiences and knowledge as I understand it.

Cheers,
Tony
 
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Styria

Styria

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....you jack of all trades and master of none ? :D Welcome to the fold, the inner circle of know nothings. Regards Styria
 

Tony66_au

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....you jack of all trades and master of none ? :D Welcome to the fold, the inner circle of know nothings. Regards Styria

LOL I was a good Cook once upon a time and I could fix 2 way radios (HF to UHF) with spit and fence wire but yep that pretty much sums me up.
 

Tony66_au

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I kid you not Brian when I say I have made more than one emergency antennae by borrowing a section of fence lol

And the lower the frequency the larger the section borrowed.

And Spit works better as a conductor, Lekky tape is used to weatherproof stuff.
 

Oversize

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The Nulon stuff has the same viscosity as the Shell oil I've been using recently (10W-40) and it seems to work fine. Probably a little thinner than what the majority have been using in the past (including me), but I'm now living in a climate that's on average at least 5deg colder than Melbourne CBD...

Tony quals are just a piece of paper to anyone but a prospective new employer. It's experience that counts....
 

mathew

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Guys I always used to use Penrite but of late Nulon Synthetic is often on sale at super cheap and it's priced very well against the others, in fact it's synthetic oil can be half the cost of Mobil one when on sale. Mobil one is the best but you get what you pay for and you must pay, even on sale. In fact if you go to Mercedes-Benz in Wagga and buy the MB oil it's cheaper than going to supercheap and buying Mobil one!:) I do my oil every 5000km in my cars except the new toy any way Mobil One every 5000km would be very expensive indeed lol:eek:

Cheers Mat
 

motec 6.9

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Hi Tony and Styria be very careful when using the word expert (An expert is some one who knows more and more about less and less until they know absolutely everything about absolutely nothing ) LOL . And i use Royal Purple in my toy :D
 

B13

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Recently most of the lighter grades of Penrite HPR have changed to full synthetic. That includes all grades up to HPR-15 (15W-60), making it one of the best price full synthetics on the market now, because its still the same price as when these products were semi-synthetics.

This isn't a recommendation for your own Benz, make your own minds up. I use it in my Mazdas and Mits Verada, and use HPR-30 (now semi synthetic instead of full dino) in the 6.9
 
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