Rust in Gleaming Beauty

[Styria]

I have not had garaging facilities for my Gleaming Beauty for a number of years now and despite all attempts to keep rust at bay, it just isn't possible - you're pushing the barrow uphill all the way.

It's been particularly evident in the leading front edge of primarily both front doors, but I have never been greatly worried as I have four spare doors all fully sprayed in 877 Petrol blue both on the inside and the upper sections of the doors. In addition, they have been hi-filled in two pack primer and fully rust proofed on the inside.

I had been putting off these rust repairs for a while, but it got to me in the end a couple of months ago.So out came the grinder and Selleys Plasti-Bond (perhaps not the most suitable filler - it is rock hard to work with) and I proceeded to grind out the rusty sections and fill the rather nasty looking rust holes. This is the driver's door which bore the battle scars the most.



Next, it was the turn of the passenger door, also quite nasty looking with the 'cancer' just above and below the trim strip.



These repairs are only just temporary - just to tidy things up for about twelve months or so and make things look acceptable. Regards Styria

 

[s class]

Well done. Surely you could have persuaded parks to weld in plates? Nonetheless, I know very well how much time it takes to do something like you have done there. The existing paintwork looks great - pity repairs are needed.

 

[Styria]

Hi S-Class, the intent only ever was to just repair the sections that were so visible and really 'hurt the eye'. If you take the driver's door, there is some rust in other areas, particularly in the channel of the bottom sealing rubber and it would have become quite a lengthy job to clear up all of the rust.

I did most of the repairs, but Parks carried out the final touches in readiness for priming and painting.




..he may not be a professional panel beater or painter, but his application is such that, invariably, he will achieve a more than satisfactory result.









We lack the facilities of a spray oven and a dust free enviroment, and with small repairs, a heat gun has to suffice - such as in this instance.

Anyway, the end result is more than satisfactory - a temporary fix, and inoffensive to the eyes. Regards Styria

 

[SELfor50]

Great pictorial Godfather!! It explains alot in a short timeframe about the painting process!

The white that's on the lower driver's side door, is that primer? and was that sanded back to metal?

 

[Parks]

The white that's on the lower driver's side door, is that primer? and was that sanded back to metal?

Hi Cam, yeah its Hi fill primer (for those who dont know it seals the surface for painting and it fills the sanding scratches) cos there were repairs at the front and back of the drivers door i just thought id prime the whole bottom half of the door,it didnt need bringing back to bare metal, I just sanded the existing paint with 220dry then its a uniformed finish and that way your more unlikely to get sink back..

 

[SELfor50]

Hi Cam, yeah its Hi fill primer (for those who dont know it seals the surface for painting and it fills the sanding scratches) cos there were repairs at the front and back of the drivers door i just thought id prime the whole bottom half of the door,it didnt need bringing back to bare metal, I just sanded the existing paint with 220dry then its a uniformed finish and that way your more unlikely to get sink back..

Thanks for that mate!! That's great info to help me. I'm not gonna bother rubbing back to metal either... Is the brand "Hi Fill" primer? How much is it for a can for say... a whole car? and would you need to do it to the whole car?

 

[WGB]

Thanks for the photo's - I am totally convinced these cars should never be let out in the rain.

When I was young I used to play in puddles with my gumboots on and end up with boils - seems these cars are the same.

Bill

 

[Parks]

Thanks for that mate!! That's great info to help me. I'm not gonna bother rubbing back to metal either... Is the brand "Hi Fill" primer? How much is it for a can for say... a whole car? and would you need to do it to the whole car?

nah thats not the name of a brand, different brands have different names for it, Michel might know more of the names than I do, I think "Hi solid 2k primer" for example, do you need to do it to the whole car? it depends on how good your surfice is but if I was wanting to paint a whole car and wanted a good job then yes I would use it......
You must use it on repairs such a bog etc cos you need to seal the surface and fill the scratches from the sand paper, bog and those types of plastic fillers are porous and they need to be sealed off, you can see in the pics ive only primed where the repairs are, all the rest I just rubbed with wet 1500 paper cos the surface was fine.......
you would probably have to buy a 4L can and 1L of hardener for the car....regards Parks

P.S any metal surfaces though even a little bit showing must have "Etch Primer" sprayed on those parts "hi Fill" isnt meant for bare metal....

P.S.S its been a while since ive bought some but i think 4L would be bout 100bucks

 

[Styria]

Hi SELfour50, Hi-Fill primer is a product, and is manufactured by all Automotive Paint companies. If you use a good quality 'name' product, this primer would probably be up near the $180.00 mark for four litres.

As Parks said, it is a while since we have bought any. Regards Styria

 

[SELfor50]

Thanks heaps fellas! Learning more every day.

I won't be going back to bare metal anywhere (not intended anyway) so i'll grab some of that hi fill primer. Should be all sweet. The bonnet will probably be the easiest, not as much to do as the rest of the car.