Rust
- Thread starter Oversize
- Start date
WGB
New Member
I raised the same question a few years ago and was inundated by photos of rusted out 126's from the USA.
The 126 seems more rust resistant - probably by design - although not so good around the rear window in some models.
Anyway teh 126 is going through it's unloved stage so we'll see how well they fare sitting out in the weather for a decade or so.
Apart from the usual chassis areas 116's do strange things like rust out the internal door frames before they rust through the outer skin.
one explanation I was given was that in the 70's the factory had to buy a quota of steel from East Germany (presumably of lesser quality) which was used in the less well seen places like door frames.
Bill
The 126 seems more rust resistant - probably by design - although not so good around the rear window in some models.
Anyway teh 126 is going through it's unloved stage so we'll see how well they fare sitting out in the weather for a decade or so.
Apart from the usual chassis areas 116's do strange things like rust out the internal door frames before they rust through the outer skin.
one explanation I was given was that in the 70's the factory had to buy a quota of steel from East Germany (presumably of lesser quality) which was used in the less well seen places like door frames.
Bill
SEL_69L
Aristocrat
About what time were whole body frames hot dipped galvanised?
Volvo were the first to adopt this practice, but I don't know when.
From my observation, R107's seem to be more prone to rust than W116's.
BY far the best defence agsinst rust is to garage a car throughout it's lifetime, when not on the road.
Obviously, a damp climate is detrimental as far as rust is concerned.
In some parts of the World, rust is not a a major priblem, because the climate is dry. South West United States is a case in point. If you are going to import a muscle car from the 'States, make sure that it has spent most of it'es life in this regoin. I nthis case interior upholstery and paint degradation are of more concern. Again, a garage is the best defence.
Volvo were the first to adopt this practice, but I don't know when.
From my observation, R107's seem to be more prone to rust than W116's.
BY far the best defence agsinst rust is to garage a car throughout it's lifetime, when not on the road.
Obviously, a damp climate is detrimental as far as rust is concerned.
In some parts of the World, rust is not a a major priblem, because the climate is dry. South West United States is a case in point. If you are going to import a muscle car from the 'States, make sure that it has spent most of it'es life in this regoin. I nthis case interior upholstery and paint degradation are of more concern. Again, a garage is the best defence.
BenzBoy
Grand Master
I think you might find that galvanising car bodies, as opposed to individual panels, only began in earnest in the 1980s. During the 1980s plastic wheel arch liner panels were used and this also helps explain why a W126 is less prone to rust.
These day, MB galvanises both sides of a panel.
However, there are some strange spots that do rust - for example, under the rear window in the box panel between the glass and boot.
As for the Soviet Steel Myth or the Great Story of Eastern Bloc steel - I'll belive it the day one single person can provide me with evidence of it actaully occurring.
Regards,
Brian
These day, MB galvanises both sides of a panel.
However, there are some strange spots that do rust - for example, under the rear window in the box panel between the glass and boot.
As for the Soviet Steel Myth or the Great Story of Eastern Bloc steel - I'll belive it the day one single person can provide me with evidence of it actaully occurring.
Regards,
Brian
- Thread Starter
- #5
I'd also stay away from a car that's spent much time living down by the beach!
Perhaps the W126 had less holes through exterior panels (to mount badges etc) and there was liberal use of cavity wax? I remember working on them and if I was doing repairs to the inside of a door, I'd always end up covered in wax.... But inside a W116 sill there's no sign of wax. Did MB improve paint technology for the W126?
The body deadener hasn't helped the W116s, or the W107s. As a result, the firewall, rear quarters and floors suffer. By now most of it has cracked and if water gets in, it acts like a sponge and holds the moisture. I'd remove it all (and leave it out), except it'd probably result in a very noisy cabin. So it's best to replace it with new material of the same thickness (especially in the floor areas).
Interestingly the GFs 2009 CLC has sound deadening material on the inside of the wheel arches. It looks very similar to the stuff they use on truck mudflaps for water spray supression. And it also looks like a great way to trap water and feed the dreaded rust....
Perhaps the W126 had less holes through exterior panels (to mount badges etc) and there was liberal use of cavity wax? I remember working on them and if I was doing repairs to the inside of a door, I'd always end up covered in wax.... But inside a W116 sill there's no sign of wax. Did MB improve paint technology for the W126?
The body deadener hasn't helped the W116s, or the W107s. As a result, the firewall, rear quarters and floors suffer. By now most of it has cracked and if water gets in, it acts like a sponge and holds the moisture. I'd remove it all (and leave it out), except it'd probably result in a very noisy cabin. So it's best to replace it with new material of the same thickness (especially in the floor areas).
Interestingly the GFs 2009 CLC has sound deadening material on the inside of the wheel arches. It looks very similar to the stuff they use on truck mudflaps for water spray supression. And it also looks like a great way to trap water and feed the dreaded rust....
SEL_69L
Aristocrat
The question needs to be now asked:
Did MB start hot dip galvanising at the start of W126 production?
Did MB start hot dip galvanising at the start of W126 production?
BenzBoy
Grand Master
Now that is a very good question.
AUDI began doing so with the 100CD in 1987/88 and Benz was about 8 years later as they were already sealing their cars very, very well from the ealy 1980s on. Alfa Romeo began in 1989.
I've got the M-B historian on the phone at the moment and he will check the exact date and get back to me.
Regards,
Brian
BenzBoy
Grand Master
Tony66_au
New Member
Boys boys BOYS!
Environmental factors aside so many 126's were washed with religious fervour at high pressure blast washes as the 80's were after all the advent of Carlovers car washes.
And 1200 PSI hydraulic blasting alkaline fluid into crevices on cars where it cant be rinsed away will rust the living crap out of a car in fairly short order and it is a tribute to German engineering that their cars have withstood this assault for so long.
Although I never washed my 300SEL anywhere but at home I did hit it a few times a day with Spot Free rinse followed by a nice Chamois dry.
And even this had a detrimental effect
Environmental factors aside so many 126's were washed with religious fervour at high pressure blast washes as the 80's were after all the advent of Carlovers car washes.
And 1200 PSI hydraulic blasting alkaline fluid into crevices on cars where it cant be rinsed away will rust the living crap out of a car in fairly short order and it is a tribute to German engineering that their cars have withstood this assault for so long.
Although I never washed my 300SEL anywhere but at home I did hit it a few times a day with Spot Free rinse followed by a nice Chamois dry.
And even this had a detrimental effect
SEL_69L
Aristocrat
I have access to a 1500 psi commerxial water blaster, but I have never used anything but plain water with it, although I also have acces to a complete range of commercial detailing chemicals.
I use a a good quality shampoo to remove road grime from my drive car, but I use a sponge and water only on my 6.9, because it otherwise does not get dirty enough, being for 'toy' use only. So rust caused by alkaline detailing chemicals should not be an issue for me.
Decaying vegetable matter in the plenum chamber area below the front widscreen is also a major cause of rust in thia area. Rust wise, it is a poor area of design in the W116.
The failure to remove mud, especially in the wheel arches, can be a significant cause for rust. In the unlikely event that my 6.9 gets mud on it, the use of a water blaster provides the answer to the problem. Just take the car for a run of at least 5 klm aftre washing, to dry it out.
I use a a good quality shampoo to remove road grime from my drive car, but I use a sponge and water only on my 6.9, because it otherwise does not get dirty enough, being for 'toy' use only. So rust caused by alkaline detailing chemicals should not be an issue for me.
Decaying vegetable matter in the plenum chamber area below the front widscreen is also a major cause of rust in thia area. Rust wise, it is a poor area of design in the W116.
The failure to remove mud, especially in the wheel arches, can be a significant cause for rust. In the unlikely event that my 6.9 gets mud on it, the use of a water blaster provides the answer to the problem. Just take the car for a run of at least 5 klm aftre washing, to dry it out.
WGB
New Member
Porsche started in the mid 1970's - probably because their early 911's rusted very quickly.
They had a 911 tub unpainted sitting as a featyure outside the factory for a long time.
For all that galvanising is only as good as the first accident repair.
Bill
They had a 911 tub unpainted sitting as a featyure outside the factory for a long time.
For all that galvanising is only as good as the first accident repair.
Bill
I've sort of shared company with many 116s and some 107s over a period of some sixteen years, and well before that, in the '80s or was it '70s, I also owned a Finnie 250 - no 'S', no 'SE', just the latest of the Finnies with the shortened front guards and the normal round lights as on the 230s and 190s.
I really do think that most rust problems with our cars relate to some very common design deficiencies in some areas. Regarding the 116s, the design of having a channel in the bottom of the doors with the rubber tucked in, is a poor design feature. The channel should be done away with. Interior floors - I really think that the stuff applied to the rear floors again is not a good feature, because the coverung can hide the rust developing under it. We won't even talk about the front and the foam covering that's glued to the floor and when, once wet, you'll never get rid of the moisture. Rear wheel wells - don't know why they can so easily be suspect to rust. I mean, after all, it is good solid steel and there is a drain hole in each well. I guess we can blame father time for that one. Rust around the screens - in my view, the contours of the rubbers in the bottom corners is three quarters of the problem. On the front, in the bottom corners on each side, and similar in the rear, with the added rust harboring traps provided by the anodized screen surrounds. Not a brilliant design, as well as being difficult to remove and then re-fit.
Next, the sound proofing on the firewall is not ideal - it does trap moisure which, again is reluctant to be removed. There are some other areas as well, such as sunroof/sunroof frame but, all in all, considering the age of the cars and the fact that so many suffer from neglect in the later years, a well maintained and garaged car should be quite trouble free. Regards Styria
I really do think that most rust problems with our cars relate to some very common design deficiencies in some areas. Regarding the 116s, the design of having a channel in the bottom of the doors with the rubber tucked in, is a poor design feature. The channel should be done away with. Interior floors - I really think that the stuff applied to the rear floors again is not a good feature, because the coverung can hide the rust developing under it. We won't even talk about the front and the foam covering that's glued to the floor and when, once wet, you'll never get rid of the moisture. Rear wheel wells - don't know why they can so easily be suspect to rust. I mean, after all, it is good solid steel and there is a drain hole in each well. I guess we can blame father time for that one. Rust around the screens - in my view, the contours of the rubbers in the bottom corners is three quarters of the problem. On the front, in the bottom corners on each side, and similar in the rear, with the added rust harboring traps provided by the anodized screen surrounds. Not a brilliant design, as well as being difficult to remove and then re-fit.
Next, the sound proofing on the firewall is not ideal - it does trap moisure which, again is reluctant to be removed. There are some other areas as well, such as sunroof/sunroof frame but, all in all, considering the age of the cars and the fact that so many suffer from neglect in the later years, a well maintained and garaged car should be quite trouble free. Regards Styria
SEL_69L
Aristocrat
Relative to what Styria has said, and that dampness only departs with reluctance, I think the best you can do for your 116 is to let it roast in the sun on a hot day for 12 hours or so, to completely dry it out.
After that, keep it out of the rain whenever possible.
After that, keep it out of the rain whenever possible.
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