Ignition lock won't budge

[Freighttrain]

So I went to start my car (1980 300SD) and the key will not turn. The car is parked in a flat spot with the wheels straight. I tried turning the steering wheel back and forth but that didn't help. I sprayed some lube in the keyhole, still nothing.

The ignition lock seems to be locked in place. I've never had any problems with the ignition lock before.

What do I do?

 

[Lukas]

You're probably not going to like this. My 116 was at the mechanic's recently, and my ignition lock is sticking a ltitle (need to jiggle the key occasionally before you can turn it). They said I can replace the lock barrel now or later. The argument for now was that if the barrel collapses / jams completely, as yours seems to have done, it is a 4-5 hour job to get the barrel out, and involves cutting the dash. Reason is that the removal process normall involves turning the key to the first position after unlock, but if that is not possible, surgery is required.

 

[Freighttrain]

You're probably not going to like this. My 116 was at the mechanic's recently, and my ignition lock is sticking a ltitle (need to jiggle the key occasionally before you can turn it). They said I can replace the lock barrel now or later. The argument for now was that if the barrel collapses / jams completely, as yours seems to have done, it is a 4-5 hour job to get the barrel out, and involves cutting the dash. Reason is that the removal process normall involves turning the key to the first position after unlock, but if that is not possible, surgery is required.

That's terrible news. Anyone interested in a 300SD with a seized ignition lock?

 

[Fotografa]

That's terrible news. Anyone interested in a 300SD with a seized ignition lock?

Firstly, if you need an new ignition barrel, i have one for $60.00. But you need to get that ket to position one first.

You should never use liquid lube in a lock.

All the little bits of metal that wear away, along with any powdered graphite (what you should use to lube it with) that is in the lock will form a paste and that will wear it away even quicker.

Vibration is your friend, get an orbital sander, and attach the key to it and try for as long as it takes to get it to turn to position one. True vibration, try jiggling, try everything you can.

If all that fails, i have removed a couple of steering lock assemblies (with a jammed lock), including from a W123, and I can advise how to go about it.

Let me know how you go, and if you need the new barrel, or any more advice.

Foto.

 

[Freighttrain]

Firstly, if you need an new ignition barrel, i have one for $60.00. But you need to get that ket to position one first.

You should never use liquid lube in a lock.

All the little bits of metal that wear away, along with any powdered graphite (what you should use to lube it with) that is in the lock will form a paste and that will wear it away even quicker.

Vibration is your friend, get an orbital sander, and attach the key to it and try for as long as it takes to get it to turn to position one. True vibration, try jiggling, try everything you can.

If all that fails, i have removed a couple of steering lock assemblies (with a jammed lock), including from a W123, and I can advise how to go about it.

Let me know how you go, and if you need the new barrel, or any more advice.

Foto.

So I've worked on the lock more today and it shows absolutely no sign of budging. Instructions on removing the steering lock assembly would be much appreciated.

 

[Fotografa]

Hey there,

it isn't too hard, and I can get you new parts, in the US for good prices.

You will need to remove your steering wheel, then remove the panel under the dash, as you are going to drop the steering column a bit.

The remove the instrument cluster, it will just pull out then remove the connections on the back of it (when you put it back together do not start the car until you have reconnected the oil line to the back of teh cluster).

Then loosen the clamp around the steering lock, and the two bolts that hold the steering column up.

Then you will need a dremel or similar, with a small grinding stone attachment, and you will grind away the small button that is holding the steering lock assembly into the sleeve that comes out of the steering column. When it is ground down, then you can manipulate the steering lock out of the steering column (you may need to pull the ignition switch off the back before you can move it too much.) then you are set to install your replacement.

Let me know if you need pricing on replacement parts, or more info on the job.

If you do a search on the diesel giant webiste I'm sure that have photos of the procedure.

hope this helps,

Foto

 

[Styria]

Hey there,

it isn't too hard, and I can get you new parts, in the US for good prices.

You will need to remove your steering wheel, then remove the panel under the dash, as you are going to drop the steering column a bit.

The remove the instrument cluster, it will just pull out then remove the connections on the back of it (when you put it back together do not start the car until you have reconnected the oil line to the back of teh cluster).

Then loosen the clamp around the steering lock, and the two bolts that hold the steering column up.

Then you will need a dremel or similar, with a small grinding stone attachment, and you will grind away the small button that is holding the steering lock assembly into the sleeve that comes out of the steering column. When it is ground down, then you can manipulate the steering lock out of the steering column (you may need to pull the ignition switch off the back before you can move it too much.) then you are set to install your replacement.

Let me know if you need pricing on replacement parts, or more info on the job.

If you do a search on the diesel giant webiste I'm sure that have photos of the procedure.

hope this helps,

Foto

Hi Fotografa, that's a terrible job, isn't it ? Haven't heard from Freighttrain - wonder how he got on. May have sold the car ! Regards Styria