W116 parts which MUST be removed from wrecks

[B13]

With the number of W116s being wrecked around the country, I thought it might be an idea to make a list of parts which makes good sense to retain as spare for owners or the good of the W116 community (ie. sell them on to others), as a lot of parts are turning up with obscene prices from the dealers. Here's some parts I would automatically start taking from a W116 at u-pull-it type wreckers, I've listed the part and the recent dealer prices, and why you may want to hoard such parts:

Instrument cluster rubber band, $114, stops instrument cluster flopping about
Taillight lens seals, $hundreds, stops water entering the boot
Number plate holders, $11ea, holds the number plate without drilling bumper
Firewall drains, $154ea, drains the scuttle area to ground, not down the firewall
Radiator rubbers, $10+ea approx, stops radiator flopping about/holds it in place
Lower radiator hose on V8, $72, holds water in radiator
Window alignment 'jaws', $46 & $74, probably make the window go up without tilting
Heater/AC control knobs, $hundreds, just because
280S/E/L/350SE/L/450SE/L badges, $50 approx, in case you get 'badged'
Bundt 6.5" alloys, $hundreds, may become hard to find 6.5" bundts in future
Hub Caps, $200+ unpainted, easy to damage while parking
Electric window regulator/motor assy., $450+, known weak point in W116
Electric window switches, $250+, they wear out


I'll add to this list as people come back to me with things to add it to.

Maybe consider making this a sticky topic, Admin/godfather.

Ian.

 

[oscar]

I would add:

-any good chrome or anodised trim
-becker radios, ebay them off if you don't need em.
-any number of FI components, particularly d-jet MPS, dizzy's and trigger points, TPS etc
-any external lights in good nic, particularly headlights with good reflectors and/or lenses.

Those are the things that have saved me $.

 

[TJ 450]

That sounds like a very sensible idea, B13. I can guarantee that there are a lot of useful parts going to waste as we speak and there are only so many W116's left. Good trim parts in particular must be saved and the rear window glass if in good order.

Tim

 

[GreaseMonkey]

I have recently been having to make these decisions re one of my W123s, and it comes down to the body shell goes, as does the engine and 'box unless they are genuine low kms with docs to prove, trim that is not useable and most suspension, (except working SLS).
Everything else that is unboltable and storeable will be of use.
Starter, alternator, radiator, P.S. pump, ignition module, even dizzy cap and leads.
Any straight trim parts, bumpers or lights, electric windows and central locking.
Basically, anything that unbolts, keep if you have space.
Someone will want it.
Chris M.

 

[Michel]

What a smart Idea.....

Thanks Ian and Oscar for these hints

 

[B13]

Some others:

Ignition amplifier box, $hundreds, they wear out
Green V8 distributor wire, $80+, they go fragile with age; ask Styria to repeat the story
Tachometers, $not sure, easy upgrade from the enormous clock in some models
OEM W116 mudflaps (white star on them), $NLA, they actually don't look half bad

 

[HansKruger]

original mercedes tools
Wheel whench
The spare wheel secureing peice
Owners manual


Hard to find if you need them to complete a car also the first aid kits

 

[GreaseMonkey]

Any working locks with keys, igntion barrel or doors. A whole set matching and in good order - even better.
Central locking actuators.
Door mirrors.
Instrument cluster - whatever is or is not working.
As I said before, anything that unbolts and is in good working condition.
The scrappie can have the bare shell.
Chris M.

 

[HansKruger]

Don't forget the bonnet star

Can be expensive new after it is stolen by some swine

 

[Bandolero]

Self Levelling pumps as they are hugely expensive and the Self Levelling rear pumps are the same as the 6.9's.

 

[Styria]

Hey guys, what you say makes perfect sense. Slowly but surely, it is getting to the stage where dismantlers like Pick 'n Payless are starting to run out of vehicles, but also the quality of vehicles is starting to diminish constantly. I suspect we are getting "to the end of the run" - that's starting to be my experience anyway.

The other area of concern is the fact that there seems to be no firm price pattern as far as the parts are concerned. If you're lucky, you might pick up an ignition module for $30.00, yet next day it could be $100.00 - it can depend on who sits behind that window at the cash counter. Unfortunately, and certainly in my case, there is a financial limit as to how many parts are being kept in stock.

Furthermore, there is no point in purchasing, say, a headlight lens in Sydney for $50.00 for onward sale, yet one might be able to buy the same item in Melbourne or Adelaide for $30.00. You're just not in the hunt. Another area worth mentioning is the method of 'dismantling' - honestly, some people have absolutely no regard nor consideration for the next guy to come along to buy some parts - the amount of damage, whether wilful or otherwise, can be enormous. Regards Styria

 

[BAR]

In my humble opinion one needs to buy the 'damaged car' and be the first on the spot.

This way, one car carefully remove the required parts, WITHOUT damage and with a view to future re-use. No wiring would be 'cut', no metal parts would be 'burnt' or 'cut'.

Eventually the remainder of the vehicle would be sent to scrap metal recyclers.

One should save, where working parts are available:

All electrical items: lights / lenses; engine control module; instrument binnacle; etc.
All plastic trim parts: door surrounds; seat handles etc.
All wheels [alloys]; tool kit and manuals.
Differential; Engine and Gearbox [keep together and keep elctrics and fuel systems intact].
Radiator and condenser are not so important as it is possible to get modern more efficient units to do the same job. I am about to upgrade my A/c condenser so that the car will be much cooler this summer, as I believe we will be in for a hot summer this year in Sydney.

 

[Mercules]

Let me know if you need any parts - they come free with a complete car.

Cam

 

[BAR]

Do you mean that you are giving away your car! ? *

 

[Mercules]

Do you mean that you are giving away your car! ? *

Buy the parts - car comes free

 

[Michel]

Buy the parts - car comes free

hehehehehehe

 

[B13]

Rear speaker grilles - needed to complete that concourse restoration
Seat runners - the incidence of corroded seat runners amoung these old cars means when you find ones in good used condition they should be kept.
Centre console woodwork - helpful for people wanting to upgrade their pre-1978 W116's console
Windscreen washer motor - they wear out and leak

 

[WGB]

It is definitely getting harder to find usable bits.

I think the 116 is starting to get into the same time warp as the earlier models like the 108 have been in for some time.

Bigger sheds and buy more acre-age.

Bill

 

[AAB]

Contact " rockauto.com ", a Yankee company that I have had excellent service from,..they sell Benz parts, new & recond,..& have a supplier who is trying to get rid of 450 SEL, 1974 model parts.

Regards,

Alex