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Oversize

Oversize

Master
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Currently having fun getting the water pump off.... There’s a bolt right at the bottom that you can’t even see!! Strange there’s cutouts in the balancer so you get to the bolt, however you can’t remove the pump with the balancer fitted!! WTF why??? 🤷🏻‍♂️
C15A521C-BEA0-41AB-BEBD-F1C13A60B7CF.jpegA37EEB89-9213-4D96-9144-B0308412E52C.jpegB7262E86-B0C3-4F94-8F10-AAF9273C4FD9.jpeg
 

c107

and 111/116/126
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You're making great progress on this car.
Good news the damage is limited to the intake manifold. keeps the job focused.
Not really a surprise that the 6.9 needs a bigger radiator than a 450. And you want it to cool nicely when our weather goes back to hot again,.
 

ProfessorExperimental

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on the waterpump/balancer interference: are you *sure* you need to pull the pump forwards out of the block?

Just checked out a german repair video* on an m116-engined C107 (couldn't find anything m100, natch) and *that* pump the impeller doesn't look to sit "in" the block at all, i.e. if the balancer were bigger you could just rotate it around the manifold pipe until the bolt ear came free. Bloke did remove the distributor tho...

*link for reference
 

Styria

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Great pics and explanation Mark.
That wonderful deep valley reminds me of the OHC V8’s in Land Cruisers.
So what did Toyota do?
They put a starter motor in there 🙄
What a great idea - wow ! It's probably the sort of obstacle that manufacturers throw at the home or amateur mechanic. BTW, boys and girls, I am back after God knows how long. The Boss knows. Sorry Boss. Regards Styria
 

Styria

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Styria

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There are indeed two types of Water Pumps for the 6.9 - early, which is more than likely the same as one fitted to the 6.3, and of course the later square bodied pump fitted to probably 1976/77 onwards - I am not certain of the cut-off date. Anyone with the early 6.3 type enjoys the relative simplicity of the unit. I have rebuilt a number of those. However, there is a proviso and it relates to the triangular water jacket (?) that fits between the pump and the engine block. That jacket, even though it looks identical to the part on the 6.3, is in fact different on the 6.9, therefore not interchangeable. If that Water Jacket on the early 6.9 unit is cactus, you've got problems. Regards Styria
 

Styria

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I changed the water pump on my 6.9 a couple of years ago and I got it off without removing the balancer.. It is a 78 model and I think there were two types of water pumps fitted. . Styria would probably know about it. RegardsMark.
Removal of the 6.9 Water Pump - square bodied late model.........I have covered this subject in previous posts, but not certain how long ago. Quite simply, there are two rules - on all occasions, except ONCE only, I managed to extract the pump from the triangular Water Jacket already referred to in a previous post. The Impeller is an absolute interference fit in the jacket, and it takes considerable coaxing to retrieve the pump. It is necessary to remove the Ignition Distributor, and the housing it sits in - it is attached to the engine block .The last few jobs I carried out in removing and fitting of the Water Pump, I went a considerable step further by also removing the triangular jacket TOGETHER with the pump still attached. The obvious benefit(s) - by removing the jacket, one can then train a garden hose right through the system, flush out all that rusty sludge and basically start afresh with clean engine water internals which, of course, helps during the hotter periods of summer. Removing the two units as one also saves the inconvenience of having to turn the engine to expose the cut-out in the Crankshaft Pulley to remove the last remaining bolt that holds the water pump in place.

One other handy recommendation - seeing front on, the bottom Allen headed bolts on the left (driver) side of the jacket, can be very difficult to remove. One in particular can be a real trap as it is in constant contact with the cooling system and rusts quite badly. When re-assembling, I get rid of those silly Allen headed bolts and replace them with hex bolts. Always make sure that you use plenty of soluble grease to fit the bolts to hold the jacket in place.

Regarding Aussie 6.9s, I concur completely except for the once only occasion. I simply don't know why I was unable to remove the pump. Also, for a perfect job, have the radiator serviced by specialists - if you do that, plus all the other work, you can forget about major cooling issues for the next fifteen years, or so. I replaced the pump in Gleaming Beauty about that long ago. BTW, if anyone is interested, I have in stock two refurbished late model pumps, then the late model triangular jacket, as well as a 6.9 Inlet Manifold in perfect condition. Regards Styria
 

Styria

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Currently having fun getting the water pump off.... There’s a bolt right at the bottom that you can’t even see!! Strange there’s cutouts in the balancer so you get to the bolt, however you can’t remove the pump with the balancer fitted!! WTF why??? 🤷🏻‍♂️
View attachment 24416View attachment 24417View attachment 24418
Hi Mark, good luck with this job - it looks as though you have an Australian Complied 6.9 with the lower compression ratio. Regards Styria
 
OP
Oversize

Oversize

Master
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So in order to get the pump out I’m faced with 2 options & either one isn’t overly appealing:

1) remove the balancer. Requires a flywheel lock, 50mm socket & damn long bar. Buy or borrow a VERY strong puller,

2) remove the water pump larger housing with the pump as one unit. Requires removal of battery, tray, air pump & AC compressor (or at least loosening off the brackets substantially). Less appealing....

Pix of an engine out of the car:

5B5DB11F-213B-47DA-AF7C-F35636170BBE.jpeg
 
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OP
Oversize

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I doubt this engine has ever been acquainted with a pressure washer or steam cleaner! Totally putrid with a blocked up valley drain. Look at the build up of crud on the shelf where the heads meet the inlet manifold! I’m currently using kero & a toothbrush to degrease the whole area while being careful not to let contaminants into the engine.

58226808-5199-4503-A113-E14520670B06.jpeg
 
OP
Oversize

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Out of curiosity I checked & cleaned the inlet manifold corrosion. The hole is far worse than it looked initially. Clearly the heater connect was totally blocked yet the hose & heater tap seem clean & clear. I have no idea why the blockage formed in that area which might’ve caused isolated cavitation & excessive corrosion in that spot. I might even water blast the top section & use it as a discussion piece in the future.

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Styria

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Hi Mark, to be honest - those pics. are quite horrible and intimidating. I have been there and done all that with two of my 6.9s. One, Astral Silver that went to Western Australia with the new owner, and the other is my Gleaming Beauty. I carried out valve grinds and decokes on both engines and I must admit that nowadays I would stay away from this type of major work. If anyone would approach me to do it again, I would want at least six to eight grand to do it properly. So buddy, good luck and you have my most sincere wishes for this onerous work you are about to undertake. Regards Styria

N.B. ......and then, there is the cost of petrol when you're done - the Australian version will probably start at 20l/100 and up to 17l/100 on a trip. The high compression engine runs about 3l./100 better.
 
OP
Oversize

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The silver lining is I got to it before it got any worse. If it had eaten into the inlet runner on number 8 it would’ve been game over 😱😳
 
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