CV boot leak

[WGB]

Help Styria,

I did not realise that the CV joints are oil filled and always assumed that they were grease filled like the rest of the world so my apparent diff leak is a leaking boot which has obviously deceided to happen almost right in front of my eyes in an otherwise symptomless drivetrain.

I will be removing the shafts but there seems to be a special tool - only possessed by members of the inner sanctum - to seal the new boots.

?Is this tool really that special or can a normal tensioning and cut-off tool for C-V joints be used.

Bill

 

[Styria]

Hi WGB, I am in a bit of a quandry as how to best advise you. As you would probably realize, the inner size of the CV joint driveshaft is exclusive 6.9, so make sure that you get the right parts to start off with - it's been covered previously on the W116 site - don't get yourself trapped with 450 parts.

With my "Gleaming Beauty", I have experienced no problems thus far in that area. However, I have had a couple of spare 6.9 units re-done by a local CV - specialist in Sydney. When I first took the parts and shafts to him, he said "these are vely, vely difficult" - Chinese for very if you know what I mean. Now, he has 'peened' the edges over, but it looks an amateurish job and he used special CV - joint grease which seems to become quite fluidity and may possibly do the job. From my observations, and from original, I would daresay that hey had been filled with diff. oil, and that would have been my preferable choice. However, I am not confident that his peening method is good enough to retain oil without some form of leakage - thus far, I've not had the time to experiment getting rid of the grease, and refilling with fresh oil.

There is no doubt that a special tool is required to service those joints properly, and it is my understanding that Morrison Motors in Sydney are the only ones to possess that tool. So Bill, that's where it stands. Done something, tried nothing, and don't really know what to do. Regards Styria

N.B. There may well be better guys around than the Chinese bloke, but how much time can you spend finding the right sort of guy with the necessary knowledge and tools. Sure, go to Morrisons, but I believe it is a costly exercise.

 

[WGB]

I have checked in the manual and the inside joint is filled with 310 mls of "Spider Joint Oil". There is a large and cumbersome pair of tools that are used to open and close the protective sleeve and obviously does the job of peening the edge.

The Haynes manual says the oil is necessary and that if someone has replaced it with grease that it should be replaced with oil ASAP.

Oh well onwards and upwards - at least the inner joint is shared with the 300SDL so spares should be available in the US if it proves uneconomic or difficult to repair here.

Bill

 

[Styria]

Hi Bill, I couldn't agree more with you - certainly oil is the preferable option as I tend to think of superior lubrication properties. Buying the parts is not going to be overly difficult - just the fitting and reconditioning. Regards Styria

 

[s class]

When I saw the title of this thread I just knew the old oil vs grease debate was going to come up. The one old mercedes 'guru' here that I've learned a lot from, say to use hypoid gear oil, and I trust his experience. The so-called expert prop shaft specialists near be swear blind it must be grease. I've always believed its oil, and I've always filled mine with oil after attention.

I'm not clear on this sleeve and peening - are you guys removing the steel sleve around the ball unit? I've changed boots by :

a) pulling back the old boot
b) drawing the joint off the splined shaft
c) remove the old boot, slip the small end of the new boot over the shaft,
d) press the joint back onto the shaft
e) slip the large end of the new boot over the open end of the steel sleeve or 'cup'
f) fit new clamps.

Admittedly this is for the 280 - are the 6.9's that different, aside from being larger diameter?

OK I must confess that step b) above is stupendously difficult, but it can be done.

 

[WGB]

Please tell me more about step (b) as this is the crux of the whole problem.

There is supposed to be a retainer on each end of the shaft which prevents it from being pulled apart. If it was just a matter of pulling it apart it would be a simple matter of pulling one end off - changing both boots and then pushing it together.

What is supposed to happen is that -
1) Each boot connects to the shaft at one end and over the two piece protective shield at the other.
2) On a 6.9 the inner joint is 115mm and non-serviceable and the outer is 100 mm and is serviceable.
3) The outer cover of the outer 100mm joint is cut off and this allows access to the retainer so that the shaft can be removed from theouter joint.
4) Boots are replaced and lubricants replenished
5) Outer cover of 100 mm joint is reformed using special tool

If the need to rebuild the outer cover can be circumvented without damaging anything this would seem to be a breakthrough.

Bill

 

[WGB]

I contacted Diesel Motors and am waiting to see if they still have the crimping tool and what their quote is.

I also contacted Herbert at the Star Shop and he says they use an aftermarket boot and a spreader that enables the boots to be stretched over the 100 mm outer joint thereby not requiring the need to undo anything.

Following this I received areply from RonB on the M-100 site and he pointed to the following website -
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm

Which explains all

Bill

 

[WGB]

Diesel Motors still have the tooling to replace the boots a la factory and I was very chuffed when they offered to lend them to me at no charge.

I like the idea of the stretchy gaiters as it enables the rubbers to be replaced without interfering with the joints in any way so I think I will go that way.

Bill

 

[s class]

I agree that it is preferable not to disturb the joints - but wow - stretching the boot over the 100mm joint -that is some stretch!

 

[s class]

Gee thanks for that link Bill. Without that tool I guess there is no way to stretch the boot enough. It certainly looks to be a quick and elegant solution

 

[Styria]

Hi WGB. thanks to both you and RonB for digging up the information on that website. I guess, without that tool, one is still 'paddling up the creek' which is a bit of a bummer.

You're pretty lucky that Diesel Motors' generosity enables you to get lend of their tool and I am looking forward to your further reports with the fitting of these boots. Regards Styria