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c107

c107

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I had ordered a K/KE fuel pressure gauge set to try and sort of my lean running. It arrived last week so sunday evening I had a go at testing the 560.

According to the workshop manuals, you're looking for around 6 bar from the test port and then 6.4 bar if you open the valve to the cold start injector port. More important than the actual readings is the 0.4 bar differential.

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I was 6.0/6.3. This eliminated fuel pump or pressure regulator. as the ECE 560 has no O2 sensor, the EHA needs to be manually adjusted.

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The adjustment is behind the screw with the flat screw head. A small allen is used and I went about 1/3 of a turn.

After my adjustment I was at 5.9/6.3, which should be in spec. I ran out of time, next is do a few more tests at higher RPM.

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OP
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Last night also also had a neighbor hold the car at first 1,000 then 2,000 RPM and checked the pressures. They stayed where they should be.
I also did the quick test where I pushed the pressure plate a bit at 2,000 RPM. If the car is lean, it should pick up revs. If good, it should bog down with the more fuel. Mine bogged down which makes me think that I have solved my lean running problem.

I also checked the potentiometer on the side of the air flow meter. This was very slightly above spec, but voltages changed as they should when I moved the plate. So I think I am ok there too.

I don't have a dyno to test the car on, but it does seem to be operating in the specs outlined in the workshop manual now.
 

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Nice one and very thorough work! Fuel pressures are critical & I think if you’re still having issues you can now look elsewhere to find the culprit. Personally vacuum issues seem common & after seeing kjet injector cutaways I’m confident the internal filters regularly block up which will affect spray patterns & flow.
 
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Nice one and very thorough work! Fuel pressures are critical & I think if you’re still having issues you can now look elsewhere to find the culprit. Personally vacuum issues seem common & after seeing kjet injector cutaways I’m confident the internal filters regularly block up which will affect spray patterns & flow.

Yes, injectors are something I probably should do at some point.
I am going to take the car to a mechanic with an exhast gas analyser (one near me) to double check what I have done.
Melting a piston is not worth skimping on a hour or two of his time to run a few tests.

More here:
http://www.classicjalopy.com/2019/11/ke-jetronic-eha-adjustment/
 

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I know it’s a real bugger to match with anything aftermarket!! Benz seem to be very good at making it hard for anyone to find reasonably priced parts!!
 
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This weeks' work on the 560 was getting the auxiliary (electric) fan working again.

Good news is that the core system was working fine, a fan swap had it all working again.

They Meyle fan works fine but as usual I had fitment problems with Meyle parts. The finger guard will not fit back on.

I was not able to find a better brand when I purchased this.

http://www.classicjalopy.com/2020/02/w126-sec-auxiliary-fan-replacement/

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A while back patrick posted on the thread dedicated to his now sold 560SEL that you can get colour matched aerosols and touch up paint pots.

I never knew this, and it provided a good foundation for me to fix the worst cosmetic problem on my SEC, that is the damaged piece of cladding on the passengers side:

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I got a new cladding piece off ebay and an aerosol of the correct 5944 Fregatblau.

It came out pretty well:

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and looks much better on the car. Its obviously not going to be a perfect match as the other cladding has 30 years of sun damage, but so long as that new piece holds on (the panel behind has minor damage) it will be a good improvement until I do it properly.

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More here: https://www.classicjalopy.com/2020/05/repainting-the-w126-cladding/

Next step is to use the touch up pot to fix some stone chips. Any tips Patrick?
 

Patrick_R

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Gents,
I seem to have missed this post and updates altogether.

Bryce,
That panel looks fantastic.
The colour matching of that Frigate Blue is fantastic.
I did have great results as well.

Ant,
A while ago I had a switch box (very nasty and complex ignition switch that controls everything including a gear lever lockout) issue with my 72 Shadow.
When traveling back to Sydney between Katoomba and Laura, it open circuited and the engine stopped, and after about 10 seconds she re started with THE loudest backfire (I guess that what happens when a 6.75L V8 that drinks fuel at the rate of 15L/100km engine does this) I have ever heard and besides giving the young lady in the convertible next to us a heart attack, it blew out the front Y piece collector completely, and immediately sounded like a V8 supercar.

I drove it for 4 weeks like this before I thought I had better fix it.
Ohhhhhhh man it sounded great.

So I can understand your conundrum about loud or quiet :eek:

For anyone interested.
Here is a link to my switch box problem.

http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/23452.html
 
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I have a lead on one right now but unless it’s rust free I’m not that interested unless it’s dirt cheap!
 
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Today's quick job was to fix something that has been bothering me since I bought this car.
The antenna grommet was missing and the previous owner had used sealant from bunnings as a replacement. It made the car look like a real Jalopy.

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Given the proper grommet is only a couple of bucks, I bought one about 18 months ago at the same time I purchased some oil filters etc.

It only takes about 20 minutes to do the job, the power antenna must be dropped down a little, and the new grommet inserted from above. A little rubber grease makes it easy to fit.

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For some reason the SEC grommet is apparently different. Either way it looks heaps better. Those type of bodges make no sense to me as the genuine part is so cheap.
 
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The radiator started leaking from the top tank on the SEC, so I have a new one.
While I am at it, I have seen random warm air come on with the A/C. Looks like classic monovalve failure.

Challenge is that the genuine and Bosch monovalves are pretty much impossible to get and the alternative is a brand that is apparently rubbish.

So I have purchased a monovalve elimination kit and will attempt to fit it.


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Master
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I’ve never heard of that but does sound interesting!
 
OP
c107

c107

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OP
c107

c107

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Master
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I’m interested in the low pressure SLS hoses. Where did you source them from? I’m not sure if they’re the same as the HPF versions, which are a bugger being an unusual metric size, with no simple imperial equivalent. In fact the original hose may even be different sizes at each end!
 

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Master
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I’m also very interested in the reproduction windscreen seal! Where did you find that?
 

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