560SEC or 500SEC request for assistance

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PvD

Mountain Dweller
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Kurrajong Heights
I am considering to purchase a 560SEC or 500SEC from the mid 1980's to 1990. I am about to part with my last MG and have to spend the $ before the better half finds a purpose for the $. Have any of the TK knowledgable persons got anything good, bad, tips, advice or comments to enlighten me. My reservation regarding motor car electronics will limit me to a pre-1990s car.
Regards, Peter
 

abl567

Super Moderator
Moderator
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2,171
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240
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Sydney
I think a 500SEC will be a private import only, if that is an issue.
Rust in the doors and at the base of the rear window is best avoided, blue interiors mean a cracked dash, and timing chain failure is expensive.
All that said I want a 560SEC, lots
 

260ebenz

Master
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6,668
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NSW
Did see a superb looking 560SEC for sale on the Carsales site not sure if the car is still for sale?
 

Oversize

Grand Master
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5,753
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596
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Melbourne
Private imports generally = more rust, no side intrusion bars, no service history, possible issues with the EPA and RWC (eg seatbelts) and lack of local dealer support. My advice is unless it's super-rare, or in amazing condition, stay away
 

TJ 450

New Member
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357
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Location
Perth, WA, Australia
If you end up looking at an import 560SEC with the 220kW ECE spec engine, keep in mind that they have a rare and expensive 8-pin EZL ignition module... very expensive to replace and hard to find. Having said this, if the coil, leads and distributor cap/rotor are kept in top shape, then there is little concern.

The rust under the rear window is indeed a huge problem on the SEC (and even the W126 as a whole). Look for poor quality repair, and I stress the importance of looking up underneath through the circular holes for peeling paint and rust holes.

Also, those seat belt arms are often broken, so make sure they work.

The best thing about these cars is that if the CIS computer fails, you can still drive the car normally, and probably won't notice other than fuel economy reduction.

The front suspension lower joints and brake support ball joints are usually stuffed too, so you can count on needing to replace them on most cars too.

As for the timing chain... if there's no history of it being renewed, and more importantly the plastic guides and tensioner, then it will need to be done immediately, along with the camshaft oiler fittings (only a few dollars for a set). This is an easy DIY job in my opinion.

Watch for worn cam lobes due to poor lubrication, which is often the result of the loose plastic fittings mentioned above.

Otherwise... they're great cars when well sorted!

Tim
 

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