C107's C107

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Helmet

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Thanks Sean
I have not done the vac test, but when I went up to get my pink slip last week we put the car on the CO meter and adjusted the idle and the mixture screw and it is running really well.

Next thing to focus on is the tranmission shift points.

Even floored, the transmission shifts to the next gear at around 3500-3800 rpm. You can make it shift later with the gearstick though. But it won't kick down if RPM will end up over the values i mentioned.

From looking at the workshop manual, it looks like I have to adjust the control pressure rod, but I find the instructions rather cryptic. Anyone have experience with this?

Happy to help, I have a little experience with this
 

sean sherry

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Shift Points Bryce... I have always found that it a case of suck it and see. The Factory settings may have been ok when in a new condition. Just raise a couple of turns and road test.. Make sure that you are getting full throttle ie that the pedal is not hitting the floor before you have wide open throttle. This would account for a Kick Down problem. I can't remember if it is a push or a pull rod.
I still have that Transmission Manual for you ??? It is an American specialist repair/ set up publication. Sean:)
 
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c107

c107

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So latest update on the SLC.
Helmet gave me some tips on the adjustment on the transmission, and turns out I had been adjusting it the wrong way. He also advised me that if the adjustment did nothing I may have a broken spring in the valve body. even on maximum adjustment no difference, so I guess that is what I have. Just have to shift it manually when I want it to move a bit faster.

Had some hot start problems, but a fuel accumulator has fixed that, and my leaky diff is now fixed with a new pinion seal. While that was being done I had the flex discs changed as they had minor cracks and the drive shaft centre support. Drive shaft had to come down anyway.

Latest thing I have been chasing down is leaks from the A/C. I took the car for a day long drive a couple of weeks ago and there was a lot of water in the foot wells, especially passenger side. I had always had a drip or two, but it must have been much worse than I thought as the carpet was soaked.

2021-02-26 14.40.46.jpg

First thing to do was remove the under dash covers. was a bit like an archeological dig as I uncovered various amps, phone kit and alarm stuff. The original owners name is on the old Becker amp so I guess he must have had it out to be repaired at some point.

2021-02-19 10.11.13.jpg

Taking the carpets out there is a small amount of surface rust building up on the floor that I will need to remove with a wire brush attachment and paint this section.

2021-03-09 11.01.13.jpg

I assumed one of the drains is off, but they looked fine. The black goo is off the pipe work next to the heater box but I don't think that could create the amount of water I had.

next step is to run the car for 30 minutes with these areas exposed so i can see where the water has gone.

meanwhile, I have removed a lot of crappy old wiring.

2021-03-09 14.26.11.jpg
 

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c107

c107

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That reminds me Bryce.
I need to dig out my uncle Neil’s (Fletcher) pic for you.
Thanks, that would be good.

Tonight I ran the car for about 30-40 mins up in the air so I could see the drains.
Eventually, after about 10 mins water started coming out of the passengers one only.

Nothing out of the drivers one, or on the floor.

Once I stopped the engine and let the exhaust cool, i was able to push a rod (in a plastic tube so as not to damage anything) up both drains and they didn't appear blocked or full of debris. No additional water came out when I did this.

A bit inconclusive. Next step I guess is a longer drive with those dash panels out.
 

Patrick_R

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Evaporator drains can be one of the most frustrating things to fix.

In a lot of cases, it’s not just years of dust build up etc that blocks them, but the internal insulation of the evaporator case/box that breaks up. It may be styrofoam or simply sponge etc.
Either way not a good job.

Not easy to check in cooler weather either, you need that humidity so it can condensate (change state from a gas to a liquid like the outside of a cold drink can or bottle on a hot humid day) so it can actually start to drain water.

As the weather cools it may be harder to find.
 

sean sherry

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I've been using the 107 this weekend and I've noticed some sqeaking from the rear end that gets worse when the brakes are on.

After a longish drive (40 mins), the alloy wheels are HOT to the touch on the rears, but ok on the fronts. Both rears are hot, not just one.

My assumption here is that I have dragging brakes. If it was on one side it would be easy - start with the flexible hose and if not that, the caliper. However, with both sides, I'm not so sure.

There is also quite a bit of brake dust on the rears (more than the fronts!)
 

sean sherry

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I've been using the 107 this weekend and I've noticed some sqeaking from the rear end that gets worse when the brakes are on.

After a longish drive (40 mins), the alloy wheels are HOT to the touch on the rears, but ok on the fronts. Both rears are hot, not just one.

My assumption here is that I have dragging brakes. If it was on one side it would be easy - start with the flexible hose and if not that, the caliper. However, with both sides, I'm not so sure.

There is also quite a bit of brake dust on the rears (more than the fronts!)
 

sean sherry

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My Money says the Flexible Hose is acting like a one way Valve
On the Clutch Hose of my MGA and on one front Brake on my '64 3.8 S Type Jaguar
 
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c107

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Progress on the floors, have ground down the surface rust and treated with rust paint. Will cover with the 906 grey blue once properly dried.

While I had the front seat out, got the rear seat bottom out to clean it properly.

2021-04-23 10.16.46.jpg2021-04-23 11.31.54.jpg2021-04-23 11.35.27.jpg
 

Michel

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Nothing like a spruce up for the old girl ;)
 

Styria

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Hi Bryce, lots of good work on your 450SLC.. Did you manage to rectify the water leak ? I am just not quite sure if I am following your threads correctly. Unfortunately, your backseat is typical of wear and collapse normally is found so readily in 6.9's, with horsehair disintegrating to dust,the calico under the leather just getting ripped apart by old age, but it can all be repaired and re-sewn. Regards. Styria
 
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c107

c107

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Hi Bryce, lots of good work on your 450SLC.. Did you manage to rectify the water leak ? I am just not quite sure if I am following your threads correctly. Unfortunately, your backseat is typical of wear and collapse normally is found so readily in 6.9's, with horsehair disintegrating to dust,the calico under the leather just getting ripped apart by old age, but it can all be repaired and re-sewn. Regards. Styria
Yes, it was a partial blockage in the A/C drain line. On a humid day there was not enough flow so eventually the evaporator case would fill up with water and leak out the top!
 

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