C107's C107

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abl567

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I've been using the 107 this weekend and I've noticed some sqeaking from the rear end that gets worse when the brakes are on.

After a longish drive (40 mins), the alloy wheels are HOT to the touch on the rears, but ok on the fronts. Both rears are hot, not just one.

My assumption here is that I have dragging brakes. If it was on one side it would be easy - start with the flexible hose and if not that, the caliper. However, with both sides, I'm not so sure.

There is also quite a bit of brake dust on the rears (more than the fronts!)

Handbrake?
 
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c107

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I dived into the brakes of the SLC this afternoon.

It is clear the rear calipers had been dragging. Pushing back one of the pistons was really difficult:

48967100657_78dd6d1cc5_c.jpg


After I removed the rear calipers I can see the effect of the dragging brakes. the seal for the piston is rather crispy.

You can see more easily in the caliper the pads are removed:

48966374323_2beba85858_c.jpg


I will probably just replace these as the extreme heat may have damaged them.

I also replaced the master, even though the fluid had been flushed about 18 months ago and looked good colour, once I removed the resevoir there was quite a lot of horrible black fluid in there somewhere.

48966375358_173c759edf_c.jpg


48967100977_c4e07c08c8_c.jpg


the only real problem is I am having a devil of a time removing the rear hoses. Perhaps the heat has affected them but I can't seem to get them to budge at all, even with penetrating oil. I will need to get a new piece of hard line on one side, and so I didn't damage the other side hard line I just soaked it in penetrant to see it will be easier when I get the calipers.

I don't have a brake line flaring and bending tool, so I will probably see if I can just buy the one small section I need.
 

Styria

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Bryce, you have lost me a bit. First of all, looking at the caliper dust seals, and the appearance of the calipers themselves, it is probably high time that you rebuilt those calipers. That's a relatively easy job - piston removal may be the only tricky part.

The hoses - you may need the correct size claw spanners - if they are as difficult to remove as you seem to indicate, again it is a further clue that some attention be given to the braking system. I don't understand what you would need a flaring tool for. Again, the use of the appropriate size claw spanner should do the job for you. Anyway, maybe I am barking up the wrong tree. Regards Styria
 
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c107

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Bryce, you have lost me a bit. First of all, looking at the caliper dust seals, and the appearance of the calipers themselves, it is probably high time that you rebuilt those calipers. That's a relatively easy job - piston removal may be the only tricky part.

The hoses - you may need the correct size claw spanners - if they are as difficult to remove as you seem to indicate, again it is a further clue that some attention be given to the braking system. I don't understand what you would need a flaring tool for. Again, the use of the appropriate size claw spanner should do the job for you. Anyway, maybe I am barking up the wrong tree. Regards Styria

I think flare nut wrench and claw spanner is different words for the same tool. I have those, but the hoses are pretty stuck.

I speak of the flaring tool because I have broken one of the hard lines. Good news is that it is a short one and it is still available from mercedes, so I can just buy it.
 
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I've now got the SLC back working again with good brakes.

What should have been a straightforward job was complicated by the lines welding themselves to hoses due to the extreme heat. In the end I had to get a brake place to help me make up some more steel lines to finish the job - especially as the calipers were slightly different to what was on the car.

http://www.classicjalopy.com/2019/10/450slc-dragging-rear-brakes-part-1/

http://www.classicjalopy.com/2019/12/450slc-dragging-rear-brakes-part-2/

http://www.classicjalopy.com/2019/12/450slc-dragging-rear-brakes-part-3/

Brakes work really well now - I have a new master, four new hoses, new calipers and rotors on the rear and some new lines on the rear.
 
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c107

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I didn't start the SLC for about 2.5 months due to COVID and since I woke it up again its been running quite poorly.

When started up it feels like it is not running on all cylinders until it warms up a bit, and then there feels like there is a miss under load.

I've been thinking about changing the injectors for a few years as the car hasn't run great when first started up but gets better - making me think one or more injectors is not atomizing the fuel but as the car warms up it compensates. CIS injectors are still not that expensive, so better to swap them while they are still available. I've owned the car 17 years and never changed them. I have the injectors, seals and the sleeve things on order.

I will change the injectors and plugs, and check the suppressors. If that doesn't help, then I will take it to my mechanic but at least those first two things are improvements that probably should be done anyway and may help.
 

Patrick_R

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I’m sorry to say I lost track of this thread.

I was just reading Styria’s reply re chasing other cars.
Oh dear, my wife asked me what I was laughing at.

Good story, I could just picture you chasing for all you were worth, and no result until he pulled up lol.

Let’s see what the injector replacement does Bryce.
I’m sure it will rectify your issues.
 

Oversize

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We used to muck about putting cars on an oscilloscope to check the ignition system, which to be fair included checking O2 & emission levels. We’d then replace individual suppressors as required. Since finding a good supplier of OEM ignition leads at very reasonable prices, I think it’s simpler to change the whole lot if there’s any doubt. Especially since they seem to last so long anyway. Even my rubbish Ford ones lasted around 300k km before they failed to support life!
 
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c107

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I took the 450SLC on an extended 250km drive the other night that included some motorway sections, fast back roads and winding roads.

The new injectors have made a big difference on how the car performs.
 

Nab

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Good stuff. How good are night drives? I went for a 150km night drive on Saturday, the crisp cold air really makes these motors sing!
 

Michel

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How much did these injectors set you back?
Did you buy them locally?

Come to think of it, my 500SL is running funny.
I might have to get someone to have a serious look at it.
 
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c107

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How much did these injectors set you back?
Did you buy them locally?

Come to think of it, my 500SL is running funny.
I might have to get someone to have a serious look at it.

I got them from AutohausAZ, about USD$20 each, and then a few bux each for the sleves and seals.

While I was at it I changed the plugs too. I had a set on the shelf.

I have another set of injectors on the way for the 560, I am getting from Shane Herbet, who had a better price than the US vendors once you factor in freight, GST etc.
 

Michel

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I got them from AutohausAZ, about USD$20 each, and then a few bux each for the sleves and seals.

While I was at it I changed the plugs too. I had a set on the shelf.

I have another set of injectors on the way for the 560, I am getting from Shane Herbet, who had a better price than the US vendors once you factor in freight, GST etc.

Are the injectors different for the different engines? (450-500-560)?
 

sean sherry

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And Bryce don't forget the Points Dwell ... set the idle screws Then .. a vacuum check to ensure that you have at least 18 inches .....re ignition timing. Then the Automatic Trans. will thank you.:);)
 

260ebenz

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I got them from AutohausAZ, about USD$20 each, and then a few bux each for the sleves and seals.

While I was at it I changed the plugs too. I had a set on the shelf.

I have another set of injectors on the way for the 560, I am getting from Shane Herbet, who had a better price than the US vendors once you factor in freight, GST etc.


Hello Bryce I was not aware Shane was still selling Mercedes parts do you have his number or email?

Cheers Tim.
 
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c107

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And Bryce don't forget the Points Dwell ... set the idle screws Then .. a vacuum check to ensure that you have at least 18 inches .....re ignition timing. Then the Automatic Trans. will thank you.:);)

Thanks Sean
I have not done the vac test, but when I went up to get my pink slip last week we put the car on the CO meter and adjusted the idle and the mixture screw and it is running really well.

Next thing to focus on is the tranmission shift points.

Even floored, the transmission shifts to the next gear at around 3500-3800 rpm. You can make it shift later with the gearstick though. But it won't kick down if RPM will end up over the values i mentioned.

From looking at the workshop manual, it looks like I have to adjust the control pressure rod, but I find the instructions rather cryptic. Anyone have experience with this?
 

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