300SEL - Emergency buffers

[Styria]

Those familiar with Kent Bergsma videos will appreciate that he is a hands on person, and he usually explains quite succinctly the procedures involved in carrying out various repair tasks. Take this latest video that I am submitting - all very well and good if your car is on a hoist as illustrated, but how about when you're on the open road, whether city or highway ? Then this task is not quite so simple. Anyway, first his procedure as hereunder:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmqmpmzl9y0

So, take the front first. You can only lift one side at a time by means of your tyre jack. Inserting that rubber/metal bung is not that straight forward _ Kent has only illustrated the insertion of one rubber - how about the second one ? Quite often, and rather easily, there is insufficient space to squeeze those rubbers into position - I know, because I have had to do those under more favourable circumstances rather than being stranded on the road. In addition, if there is no air in the system, it is well nigh impossible to insert the lifting part of the jack into the recess (hole) provided. That's just one side - you then need to tackle the other. Furthermore, with the road wheels still in place - try and get those rubbers into position.

At the rear, if your car is down, there is no way of inserting the supports from the inside as described by Kent. No, the wheels need to be removed before you can even think about inserting the supports. I have also found something quite peculiar at various times - with the suspension being right down, and endeavouring to lift the car by means of the car jack, the system does not allow the wheel to "hang down" - in other words, the suspension moves up with the body and even if one removes all wheel nuts, it can be almost impossible, in fact it is, to remove the road wheel from the hub past the edge of the rear guard. Similar sentiments apply to the front, but there is more clearance.

So, it can all be pretty tricky and, I guess in a round about sort of a way, just about impossible to get yourself going. As well, how many cars have those emergency rubber buffers ? I suspect this could be another issue.

Regards Styria

 

[CraigS]

I don't have the emergency buffers but what I do have is an air jack, which is operated by the exhaust. In addition, I have 4 schrader valves for the airbags. If your problem is the air bag itself, you are in slightly more trouble, but I figure I can find something to use as a block.

 

[Styria]

Craig, it's not that difficult to find blocks - the problem is getting them into position if the car is down on its haunches. I have in fact had machined up some solid back neoprene blocks roughly the same shape as the originals (for the front, that is) whilst with back ones I have cut up small solid hardwood timber blocks that can hold the back up. As a matter of interest, have you ever experienced the situation where the back axles and suspension won't let go ? When it has happened to me, I have even tried to stand on the hubs, and they haven't budged. If I remember correctly, I have experienced similar with the 6.9s. Regards Styria

 

[CraigS]

The only time I have ever experienced any problem with the suspension was when I had some work done on the exhaust system. The clowns used a air hacksaw to remove the old system and in doing so, put a minute hole in the air line. 30 minutes later I was travelling in South Melbourne and the rear went down like a tonne of bricks. Most embarrassing ! I had it put on a tow truck as there was no way that even the factory jack could be inserted, let alone lift it. It was at that point that I decided to buy the air jack. It was repaired and the exhaust shop paid the bill.

 

[Styria]

Staying with the thread, and Kent Bergma's tutorials, this particular video merely elaborates on the various components that are part of the air suspension system. Obviously owners of cars with that system would be familiar, but nevertheless let us make it part of this thread. Regards Styria

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkmZVu1zodY

 

[Styria]

Still staying with Kent and his car and tutorial - he has ben kind enough to video the procedure involved in rebuilding these valves - I would suggest that this is not a job for the home mechanic unless, of course, you have no means of having someone rebuild these valves for you. Some years ago, I used a rebuilder in Queensland, but his success rate was probably about 50% to 70% at best.

A rebuilt, but nevertheless faulty valve, is the last thing you want, especially if it involves the front left valve with its multitude of connections. You will find in a later video when Kent talks about refitting that particular valve, that it is not a job that he cherishes. So, a perfect replacement valve is the way one needs to go, and obviously Kent (or is it Ken) has the right man on his side. Regards Styria

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwY85kkkdgk

 

[Styria]

Still sticking with Kent. I am hoping that all videos are coming through the way they should - it's easy enough to double up or choose the wrong one. If I do, please forgive me.

This particular video, quite lengthy, deals with the installation of the rebuilt valves. I must admit that his standards of cleanliness and attention to detail are quite exemplary. Having done this job many times, I can understand where he is coming from in the manner of carrying out this work. However, take note of the fact that he has picked the easiest of the four valves, namely the rear one. Whilst the right front can be tricky, the left unit is an altogether different proposition. Certainly, it is essential to start off the fittings by hand, and as he correctly points out, they must be absolutely true and straight. Even then, however, they can be reluctant to turn.

What he doesn't elaborate on is the copper body part of the valve, with fittings at an angle in relation to the other openings. So, in other words, you're not going straight in when compared with the other openings - very, very tricky and so easy to cross thread. I have spent an untold amount of time getting the nipple to start. Just one other little observation during part of the video - have a look at the lifting buffer that he referred to in the very first video - obviously he did experience some malfunction in fitting that spacer! Substantiates my claim regarding difficulty of fitting that buffer. I hope you find these videos of interest. I certainly did as I am about to get involved with these various procedures. Wish me good luck. Regards Styria

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNnfvnhld-g

 

[CraigS]

I have spent an untold amount of time getting the nipple to start.

I've had that problem too sometimes !

In all seriousness, it is a pig of a job, which is why I got my brother to do it ! He still complains about it, and that was 10 years ago.

It is obviously easier with a hoist, but getting all those pipes to line up, especially when you have to bend the pipes in the first place to get the valve out.

Last time I spoke to Klaus, he was ready to scale down the amount of valves he rebuilds, so it is going to get more difficult in the future.