Povo update

[oscar]

This is turning to be more of a how not to paint a car tutorial rather than a race car build up. For the past couple of weeks I've been struggling
to get a decent finish on the car. The biggest advancement today was the purchase of a new quality gun. I bought a Star gravity feed gun, cost was
about $160AU. I wanted to get a HLVP (high volume low pressure) but the shop I go to starting price was $279AU. Too much for me. They only sell
quality gear and I didn't want to risk a cheaper ebay purchase. Plus they're expertise and advice is worth the visit.

The difference between the new gun and the suction gun is chalk and cheese. All guns pretty much looked the same to me and a couple of years ago
when I bought the cheap suction gun from a SuperCheap Auto shop for about $40AU with accesories (tyre gauge etc) I thought I could get away
with it. Not so.
The gravity feed has an air flow control valve which I'm sure some suction ones have too, but that along with the better adjustments and a clean uniform spray
pattern gave me more control over what I was doing plus way less overspray. I can no longer blame the tools. Any imperfections are my doing
from here on in.


Anyone contemplating a DIY respray, buy a quality gun. $160AU for the Star one is on the cheaper side but definitely suits my needs.
The nozzle is 2.0mm in case anyone was wondering.

New and Old

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Before I got the new gun, this is where I was at -

All masked up

Primer/surfacer with a lot of banding using the old gun. Unkown to me at the time, it was caused by a bit of gunk altering the flow of paint past the edge of the nozzle.
Even when clean the flow from the nozzle wasn't perfect, unlike the the new gun whose flow around the needle before atomizing looks completely uniform.

For some reason I did a great job on the spoiler using the old gun. It worked really well, nearly perfect.

Shame about the rest though. I have no idea what contaminated the surface. After sanding the primer, I washed with new sponges and carwash,
then once thouroughly dry I used a new static broom to act as a tack cloth.

To make things worse, I discovered way too late the need to strain the paint prior to adding it to the pot. The enamel formed a skin which kept blocking
the gun and throwing out blobs. This was after the "measles" reaction I got above.

So after that, I did put another coat on using the old gun after giving it a thorough clean and straining the paint. I had no blockages anymore but I couldn't
get a uniform spary pattern and the overspray was was hopeless. I've tried all sorts of combinations of thinner paint, less pressure at the regulator,
adjusting the the flow rates etc and couldn't get it right. To me the old gun is a typical example of you get what you pay for. So the second top coat
went on then sanded.

Enter the new gun
I should've really sanded that last coat right off then primed again because the result of the new gun is amazing. The imperfections now are definitely
caused by the uneven surface underneath plus the odd rough spot showing through and dust of the older masks. I shall lightly sand this one more time,
replace the masks then give a final coat. After that, hopefully we'll be discussing mechanical issues and the next few steps needed to get Povo racing.

 

[s class]

Congrats dude. Its looks like you are learning fast! Unfortunately painting is one of those things in life that you really only learn the hard way.

I am concerned about your statement - 'washed the car with car wash' - no, no, no.

Car washes contain waxes. You must rub down the car dry or using plain water only as a lubricant. After sanding, you can wash down again with plain water only - and wipe up the residues with a clean sponge. Repeat this as many times as necessary.

When all the moisture is completely dry, including in the crevices, you are ready to paint. Just before painting, you can optionally tack down the surface. Again, don't skimp here. I use standox silicone remover as a tack wipe. Its a fast drying solvent based cleaner. I dampen some high quality paper towel with the stuff, then tack off quickly with it, then immediately wipe with some dry paper towel before the stuff has dried on the surface.

Tacking is done immediately before painting - I usually prepare my gun, mix the paint, then tack off, then spray.

 

[s class]

Another comment - 2mm is OK for a nozzle size - its on the large side ot he range, making it suited to primers and some top coats. 1.3 to 1.4 is better for metallic base coats. I use 1.4mm as a general purpose nozzle - though it is really a bit small for filler coats.

 

[oscar]

Thanks very much for those tips sclass.

The guy that sold me the Metal Armour enamel paint gave me the 2.0mm setup and although I forgot to ask what I'd need for 2k and acrylic, I was hoping you guys might pipe up with what you guys use. Metal Armour is a cheaper enamel paint. Definitely not in the list of top10 that michel had listed. But when I said what the car was going to become that's what they recommended. When everything falls together the result is pretty good, but I wouldn't use it for a proper resto.

I didn't realise about washing with detergent was as bad thing. A number of weeks ago I used a solvent based Prepwash on an undercoat when I was just doing the bonnet. It seemed to dissolve the primer surfacer so I was a bit apprehensive this time to experiment. I will however use it prior to the last coat. The preparation beneath has not been ideal but it will have to do. It's a good example now how poor prepartion shows through in the result. Like I've said before, I'm glad to have had the opportunity to practise on this car. I still need improvement obviously but i'm getting there.

One last thing, I forgot to add here a bit more detail about me wet hand sanding. It's the first time I've done it on any paintwork and it's brilliant the way the paper self cleans plus the way it better prepares the surface.

After the disappointing first overall coat of colour, I went ape on all the flat surfaces with a random orbital and hand wet sanded the grooves, corners and uneven surfaces. Both methods using 180grit and the result is obvious on the latest coat of colour. Once this coat dries I'll do the lot with a finer grit and hand wet sand.

Random orbital prior to top coat.

Hand wet sanded prior to top coat, now to make the rest of the car look like that.

 

[s class]

OK, if your tack wash is softening the primers be careful. I only use Standox 2K primers etc, so they are robust, and are not affected by the standox silicone remover. I guess enamels may not be so happy with solvent based tack solutions. You may need something gentler - not sure what.

180 grit is really harsh for between coats. I use P100 (dry) to cut filler, then I smooth the filler with P220. In general I use P360 or P400 under the primer. Once the first primer is done, I use nothing coarser than P400.

General practice is to do your final sanding before the last coat with P600. I have found though that (especially with metallics), its beneficial to do the final cut with P800.

 

[SELfor50]

GREAT TO HEAR!!!! I'm talking bout the moving onto mechanicals and getting povo ready to race..


Seriously though, it seems like it's starting to come together and you're finding the right balance...which i'm sure in painting is hard. You know though, it's not too late to swing my mte $50 and a case of beer to paint your car?!

Are you up to the final coat now???

 

[oscar]

I hear your frustration Cam. For a moment there after sclass' last post I wanted to strip and start again But I wont, I promise. Tomorrow is the last day I'll spend on painting. I've taking the masking off and will give it a light wet rub down with fine stuff and organise the tyres and wheel alignment for next week. Still waiting for the CAMS licence too. Might get the kids to get me a helmet for father's day. Wish I could add springs, brakes and a turbo to the list

Apart from moving onto mechanicals I need to move povo so I can start on the backyard. These two weeks off I have was supposed to be landscaping by day, povo by night. At the moment povo's in the way of bringing in trailer loads of dirt etc so the pressure is on.

 

[SELfor50]

I hear your frustration Cam. For a moment there after sclass' last post I wanted to strip and start again But I wont, I promise. Tomorrow is the last day I'll spend on painting. I've taking the masking off and will give it a light wet rub down with fine stuff and organise the tyres and wheel alignment for next week. Still waiting for the CAMS licence too. Might get the kids to get me a helmet for father's day. Wish I could add springs, brakes and a turbo to the list

Apart from moving onto mechanicals I need to move povo so I can start on the backyard. These two weeks off I have was supposed to be landscaping by day, povo by night. At the moment povo's in the way of bringing in trailer loads of dirt etc so the pressure is on.

Word...

"...the heat is on.. da da da daaaaad ddaad da dad da daaaa..."

Tell the youngfella to get you the helmet and then all yo need is the fire extinguisher and you're off racing. The more I tell myself i can't race again before i go overseas, there might be a cameo at Sandown day cup sprint if all 3 Team 116 car's are gonna rep it....... maybe.


Cam.

PS. Instead of paying for truckloads of dirt, just dig out the garage, make a pit and use the dirt for the backyard..

 

[Des]

Thanks for the pictures and info Oscar, I was actually planning to go and pickup a cheapo spray gun this weekend from supercheap but I will invest in a good one, after my half arsed attempt to paint my car last time I will give it another go.

Afterall, if something is worth doing, it is worth doing quickly.

 

[oscar]

I'm eagerly waiting for the car to dry to have another go at the new gun. Definitely worth buying a good gun Des. I don't know how many times in the past I've skimped on something only for it to bite me in the ass later.

Don't fret Cam, these are only concepts, not something I'll do in the next week or two... I swear. I was up late on the puter last night toying with photoshop. Cam suggested that the roo that caused all the fuss should be represented in some way so I thought I'd have a play. The kids got excited about the last one. They immediately said "The Rabbitoh's" . Hmm scrap that idea. I thought of Castrol. Why does everyone seem to go for the Rabbitohs

 

[B13]

112 = kw?

maybe mph top speed?

112 coats of paint to get it right?

LOL

i think the 3rd last picture cortina mk1 lotus GT style as merit

I.

 

[oscar]

Nat wanted 112 the things we do.

Interesting you like the Cortina one. So do I. The one below that with extra stripes is overkill, makes the car look like a malibu surfboard. But I don't mind the blue one either. I think I'm the only one

 

[Michel]

I hope you're as good with the gun as with the mouse

Great shots Oscar (I know I know it's Photoshop)

You're making us proud....

 

[s class]

Just another comment oscar, painting at night is a real bad idea. You will get condensation in the paint. In fact, when painting at home, the hotter the weather, the better.

 

[SELfor50]

Oscar, love the mock ups!!!! Some good planning there.

A few things... If Povo is Red & Green, like the Rabittohs, you just won't win anything!

You're kids like Red & Green, cause it means Christmas!

And finally, like Mav said, the Cortina style is the bomb!! Uber-

If you want I can my housemate has a picture of a character he did called 'Killeroo' somewhere in one of his comics.. I might try dig it up.. It's pretty sweet!

Cam.

 

[SELfor50]

Best pic i can find online right now, will ask him for the proper link tomorrow.

 

[oscar]

Man killeroo looks mean I was thinking earlier that with a black bonnet a sinister roo's head can be airbrushed in. Remember the movie Razorback from the early 80's? I remember we had the book at home and the cover used to haunt me. Down the bottom is a movie poster but the book we had was just of the boar's head.

Geez are we doing a racecar or a show car for Summernats I should have bought a panelvan. Classic comment on the bunnies BTW LOL.

Just another comment oscar, painting at night is a real bad idea. You will get condensation in the paint. In fact, when painting at home, the hotter the weather, the better.

So true. In fact I left the painting alone today being that it was getting too late in the afternoon by the time it dried and it takes a couple of hours or more to become tack dry. Considering it would've taken an hour or more to apply new masks and prep the surface again it would've been dark by the time I was ready to shoot.

The cold weather is partly what's held me back since it started not long after I got the quarter panel back on many weeks ago. Frosty mornings and a cold garage has made it too risky to paint till now. With Spring now sprung, the days are becoming longer and warmer but boy the pollen Pine tress across the road are popping their buds and realeasing clouds of the stuff. So today I've washed the car after a hand wet sand plus removed the masks then high pressured washed everything, the car, garage walls and doors then sealed the garage up. In the morning I'll use the prepwash solvent stuff on a concealed spot to see if it is safe to use but by about midday I hope to come back with a thumbs up, all finished.

Michel, if only the sandpaper and spray gun had USB ports things would be so much easier.

 

[oscar]

Ok, lets bury this thread. I'm a day late due to the amount of pollen that covered everything. So it got washed again late last night (midnightish) then tacked this morning. Unfortunately there was still a bit of dust about and lint from my new lint free rags. The prepwash I have is for bare metal only, that's why it dissolves the paint so I didn't use it. Just plain water. Anyway, the surface seemed clean. There were still imperfections, runs I hadn't sanded down far enough plus those divots but all's ended well. Learnt a lot.

Anyway, the end result, straight from Thunder Road, "Grease Povo"



Couldn't help myself, the kids were watching the movie yesterday.

But here it is - most of the car looks like this, the odd bit of dust and divot but generally looks good. Too much orange peel on the boot. I ran out of paint and went and bought another tin. 4 litres just in case All up I've used 7litres of topcoat 112 coats isn't far off

 

[s class]

Well done dude. That actually looks pretty good. I'm sure you feel satisfied and relieved.

 

[oscar]

Definitely. So is the Mrs. She can't wait to get her car park again. But I'll be looking forward to having another go on another car sometime in the future but doing it properly, back to bare metal and using fillers if need be. Not sure if I've graduated to metallics and 2K yet though. But I've got plenty of panels to practice on before then.

Yesterday I got my racing license so I'm keen to move forward with all of this.