Clutch or slave cylinder problems with Malaysian build 280S

[motorpsycho]

Hi... I'd like to have suggestions of any of you having experience with the clutch in W116 or W123. I know that there are only a few W116 manuals around in Oz, but anyway...
After buying my lovely 280S the clutch pedal sank in the first 2000km down by about 3 cm. Now I have problems after a long drive ( approx 350km last time) to change gears. Especially in reverse. Just can change with a naughty crunch. The problem goes away when car is cooled down over night but clutch pedal is now down about 5cm. I gathered that it is either air in the clutches hydraulic system or a worn slave cylinder might be the culprit. There is no brake liquid ( which is the clutch liquid too ) being lost since I bought it...

Maybe anybody has an idea...

Thanks a million

 

[SELfor50]

Hi... I'd like to have suggestions of any of you having experience with the clutch in W116 or W123. I know that there are only a few W116 manuals around in Oz, but anyway...
After buying my lovely 280S the clutch pedal sank in the first 2000km down by about 3 cm. Now I have problems after a long drive ( approx 350km last time) to change gears. Especially in reverse. Just can change with a naughty crunch. The problem goes away when car is cooled down over night but clutch pedal is now down about 5cm. I gathered that it is either air in the clutches hydraulic system or a worn slave cylinder might be the culprit. There is no brake liquid ( which is the clutch liquid too ) being lost since I bought it...

Maybe anybody has an idea...

Thanks a million

Oscar's the only member I know with a Manual 116. 280S also.
But I don't think he's experienced problems like this, though he may have some of an idea.

Cam.

 

[John S]

Do I understand the problem correctly, that the foot pedal has about 3cm freeplay initially but goes to 5cm after the system heats up? This would seem to indicate it is not the clutch plate as you would not have the freeplay recover if it was.

Also, if the problem was with oil leaking past your clutch master cylinder the pedal would slowly go to the floor when you held pressure on the pedal, this does not seem to be happening.

I would suspect either your slave cylinder or the hydraulic hose; can you get under and check while someone works the pedal?

 

[motorpsycho]

Do I understand the problem correctly, that the foot pedal has about 3cm freeplay initially but goes to 5cm after the system heats up? This would seem to indicate it is not the clutch plate as you would not have the freeplay recover if it was.

Also, if the problem was with oil leaking past your clutch master cylinder the pedal would slowly go to the floor when you held pressure on the pedal, this does not seem to be happening.

I would suspect either your slave cylinder or the hydraulic hose; can you get under and check while someone works the pedal?

Hi John thanks for reply.
The foot pedal had no free play at all in the beginning. Than it had about 3cm for a while and now it has about 5cm. Pedal doesn't stay down if pressure is constantly applied on clutch pedal. And no(!) fluid was lost in the process of this happening... Now that the pedal is 5 cm down it doesn't separate properly any more after about 50km drive... Could it be simply lots of air in the hoses/cylinders? It's quiet confusing to me....
But it will be at my mechanic tomorrow and he hopefully will find a solution...

I will keep you posted...


Ta again...


Uli

 

[John S]

Sounds a rather weird problem, hydraulic hose swollen inside? Pivot in the clutch housing moved? Hopefully your mechanic will find it's something simple (and cheap) that he has to fix

 

[Styria]

Well boys - it's really very simple - no ifs, no buts, it's just there is a problem. End of story !

Anyway, let's look at this logically. First of all, make sure that there is about three millimeters free play on the clutch lever arrangemnt - alongside the gearbox, not at the clutch pedal. Once you have obtained that correct clearance, or free play travel, and if you have further problems still, then it becomes a hydraulic issue.

I have only dealth with manual Rover cars, and all hydraulic operations are steel piping arrangements. So, there is no need to deal with swollen hoses. Next, turn your attention to the slave cylinder - I daresay that the sealing cup(s) is leeking fluid past, thus not giving you full pressure at all times - especially not when the car is hot. I would also go so far as to say that maybe the Clutch Master cylinder, if there is one, should be re-kitted as well.

That's how I would go. Re-kit both cylinders, and if your free-play is okay, you should have no further problems. Regards Styria

 

[Martin280s]

I daresay that the sealing cup(s) is leeking fluid past, thus not giving you full pressure at all times - especially not when the car is hot. I would also go so far as to say that maybe the Clutch Master cylinder, if there is one, should be re-kitted as well.

That's how I would go. Re-kit both cylinders, and if your free-play is okay, you should have no further problems. Regards Styria

I'd go with you on that one. I've had to change the cylinder (on the side of the gearbox) due to this very issue. Fluid started to seep past the seals. Fortunately, I was at home when it started to leak visibly.

 

[Styria]

Hi Motorpsycho, just as a matter of interest, any further news on the clutch problem ? If I remember correctly, the car was gong to your mechanic the next day. I'd be interested in an update. Regards Styria