HPF rubber boots, height rod retrofit and faults encountered

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QLD6point9

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Rockhampton QLD Australia
Gday all,

Just wanting to report the days workings on Sherman the German. (See photos attached of today’s inclusions).

As I have come to understand that for now at least, my valve blocks appear to be doing their job correctly and are also not leaking at present, I decided to go ahead and install my newly acquired rubber boots firstly for the rear valve block. I completed this small job with the block still attached as access was great around the area and using the hoist. When it comes time to fit the new boot for the front valve, I imagine I am going to have to remove the valve as access is not as great in the engine bay recess area!.

Took about 20-30 minutes with some gentle persuasion of the boot into the final resting position of the block housing.

The real test was installing the ring that secures the boot over the block housing. That was interesting for sure!.

From there, I finished up in this area by installing a slightly modified w220 chassis vehicle height adjustment rod to the 6.9 (see photos attached), to achieve an equal fit, the w220 rod had to be slightly bent to enable for it to install in the same orientation as the original broken rod. I do not intend for this to be permanent, but rather for $20 off eBay it serves to provide the same function until I can restore the original height rod.

Next, I decided also to vacuum/siphon out the old HPF fluid from the reservoir and perform a few cycles of the suspension (control disc) to purge new hydraulic fluid through the system. All was going well and I had performed 3x siphon, purge and run cycles to have new fluid circulating back and forth through the system.

It is with this action that unfortunately I have come to grief. All was going well for the first 3 purges and I had the fluid returning nice and clean. It would appear as though now, moving the height control disc on the switch unit does not result in any corresponding movement of the ride height….

Previously all was working perfectly (vehicle holding pressure for weeks and the pump was showing strong signs of health as the car would raise in 5 seconds or less every time), the only small leak that I have is from the rear passenger side strut (weeping around the strut), however no noticeable drop in height over extended periods of sitting dormant.

The final step (had all been going well) was to finish the flushing procedure by replacing the small filter (really small sintered filter) and the larger paper filter to complete the job. I have fallen short of this now as this issue has appeared.

Any and all advice would be appreciated in this newly acquired issue.
 

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QLD6point9

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Location
Rockhampton QLD Australia
Forgot to add: would it be the case potentially that debris has worked its way into the switch unit or regulator thereby blocking the control disc from actioning movement?. Should one’s next step now be to check for blockages?.
 
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QLD6point9

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Location
Rockhampton QLD Australia
To chime back in on this post from earlier, I have now identified and rectified the issue. All of my efforts to purge the system yesterday of old fluid must have upset the switch disc and its ball bearings and pins (below the disc).

I managed to get the disc off (being careful not to shear off the screw as apparently these were glued from MB). Some back and forth movements of the screw before fully backing it out did the trick and I got out intact.

Next up, used a magnet to pick up each of the 3 ball bearings on the top mating surface of the switch disc assembly and laid them out according to orientation of installation on vehicle.

From there, the pins/stems were quite stuck inside the sleeve housing and I imagine this is what was giving me dramas as I had no feedback from the switch disc when trying to change suspension modes (no pressure from the ball bearings pushing upward towards the disc)

I imagine each pin was a little stuck as one came out relatively easy, the other 2 required extra persuasion with compressed air.

End result, while I had the whole housing out (regulator and switch disc housing) I disassembled and cleaned out every entry point that I could with some brake cleaner, changed the small sintered filter with a new one I had, and also replaced the larger paper filter for reinstallation.

there were 2 other small balls in behind 2x hex/allen screws in the switch disc body housing. These were also removed and cleaned and their sleeves sprayed with brake cleaner.

all in all, while not a professional repair, and not as thorough by any means. In the interim I now have back full functionality of my HPF and a purged, new filters and fluid system. For peace of mind, I have also learnt a fair bit about this particular area of the system today. Quite satisfied!

while I was under the vehicle I decided to do the shift bushings for the gear shifter as they had been annoying me, cannot stand not knowing which gear the vehicle is in correctly. This also was a nice addition to the day.

6x flushes of the cooling system with tap water followed by 2x flushes with distilled water and followed up with fresh green coolant. Sherman is certainly back in the land of the living.

Transmission fluid change x4 and filter/gasket will follow next.

loving the 6.9!
 

aussie 6.9

Noble
Messages
80
Points
124
Location
western nsw
Great to hear about your maintenance and refurbishing of your 6.9
Sometimes if my car has not been used for a while it will refuse to pump up. I disconnect the main line from the hydraulic pump,remove the reservoir cap and place the end of the line in the reservoir. Run the motor at an idle till get clear flow without air bubbles .Turn off motor and reassemble and all works properly. Regards Mark
 
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QLD6point9

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Messages
11
Points
8
Location
Rockhampton QLD Australia
Great to hear about your maintenance and refurbishing of your 6.9
Sometimes if my car has not been used for a while it will refuse to pump up. I disconnect the main line from the hydraulic pump,remove the reservoir cap and place the end of the line in the reservoir. Run the motor at an idle till get clear flow without air bubbles .Turn off motor and reassemble and all works properly. Regards Mark
Hey there Mark,

That sounds like a great idea for ‘waking up’ the system so to speak from my take on it. Another chap from the w116 forum suggested the same so I reckon there would be absolute merit in your method. I will keep that in mind for future endeavors. Loving this car 6 months in and enjoying it. Cannot wait to get it on the road. 😎
 

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