Clear Coat

[sean sherry]

Having spent half a Day cleaning up the Alloys on my new Toy, C Class 250 including applying Silver Wheel paint. I wonder if there is any merit in applying a clear top coat to retard the build up of the Black Brake Dust. ??????

 

[Michel]

Of course, a clear coat, properly applied, would make washing off the brake dust a breeze.

 

[BenzBoy]

An alternative to a clear coat is: https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/autobahn-wheel-wax-50ml.html
Regards,
Brian

 

[sean sherry]

Thanks Brian, I have ordered the Wax. I wonder if there is any advantage in Clear Coating the wheels first ? The currant finish looks like it is porous, i.e., looks dull.

 

[BenzBoy]

Thanks Brian, I have ordered the Wax. I wonder if there is any advantage in Clear Coating the wheels first ? The currant finish looks like it is porous, i.e., looks dull.

Absolutely. You need to use the Swissvax fluid before you use the wax so you will need that too.
Regards,
Brian

 

[Styria]

Sean, it is also possible to purchase after market disc brake pads that will emit a fairly low level of brake dust. I have "dust free" brake pads on both my 6.9 and my Holden Captiva. The purists will tell you that you should stick to genuine Mercedes parts, but from personal experience, I have not encountered any adverse symptoms from the use of the non-standard pads.

Sure enough, you can clear coat the paint on your wheels, but get it done professionally. Also, bear in mind that brake dust will also accumulate on the insides of the rims, so really you should remove wheels and tyres, have them cleaned professionally and painted by the same source of quality of workmanship. Don't fall for the trick where someone will just decrease the pressure in your tyres, give the rims a quick scrub with a scouring pad and "chuck" some paint on the rims. I have had that happen.

Incidentally, as part of the service on my Captiva, I ask the mechanics to remove the road wheels and wash the inside of the rims. Nice and easy. Regards Styria

N. B. I forgot to mention the quality of any Clear Coat - we have used top quality Standox Clear Coat in days gone by, and the level of gloss was remarkable - yet another time, when I entrusted a Wheel Painting job to an outfit at North Parramatta, the quality of the "Clear" was abysmal. It had "shine" but no "depth".

 

[BenzBoy]

In light of what Styria wrote you may find this worth reading right through:
https://www.bendix.com.au/product-range/euro
Regards,
Brian

 

[SEL_69L]

I am thinking of applying clear coat over my buffed headlight lenses.
I will wipe it on with a lint free rag then lightly hand buff whilst still 'green'.
A more comprehensive hand buff later on.
I will experiment on a tiny area on my i20 headlight lenses first.

Perhaps I will check on Youtube before beginning, to make sure what I propose to do is OK.

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The best clear coat protection may well prove to be a clear ceramic paint sealant, applied by hand over an acrylic top coat.
I am thinking that brake dust coating would be easier to remove from a much harder surface.

A small, low power domestic water blaster would the best way the brake dust.
Some of us may already own a water blaster.

 

[Patrick_R]

Brian,
These are exactly the pads I fitted to the S430.
Fantastic stopping power with minimal dust.

I’ve always used Bendix pads my entire working life, and never had any issues.
A great product.

 

[Michel]

The only way a ‘clear coat’ is applied is via a spray gun after the surface is properly prepared.

Jerry does lots of dull headlight rejuvenations and it’s always finished with a clear coat applied via a spray gun!

 

[BenzBoy]

The only way a ‘clear coat’ is applied is via a spray gun after the surface is properly prepared.

Jerry does lots of dull headlight rejuvenations and it’s always finished with a clear coat applied via a spray gun!

Jerry has done headlights on both the ML and the GTi6 and the result is a headlight that is the same as new.

On another matter, I never get brake dust on my headlamps ….
Regards,
Brian