my 6.9 can't get it up !

[Des]

Dear Ian

Maybe I am stating the obvious (as I tend to do)
But it appears looking closely at your picture that the suspension has not fully sunk down at the front?

I'm sure I can remember when the front had sunk down so low as you could not even stick your foot under the front of it, and the wheels were right up under the guards,

Maybe I am stating the obvious or not something you have mentioned, but it appears to be not fully sunk down?

Would that then imply that there is some pressure still in the front of the system?


was that .pdf any help?

Kind Regards
Des

 

[TJ 450]

This is what my 6.9 looked like when I took ownership. Completely flat at the front.

[img=http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/2076/69downqb0.th.jpg]

Tim

 

[Des]

Dear Tim

yes that is completely sunk down to the ground, Ian's does not quite look that low

 

[B13]

But it appears looking closely at your picture that the suspension has not fully sunk down at the front?

No, you're right.... the front hasn't completely failed, there is still a small amount of suspension travel, the front still lifts on the weight transfer from heavy acceleration etc.

The rod on the height valve has been adjusted to "very short" which I believe should result in a "very high" car, because as I understand it there's an inverse relationship in play here, the shorter the rod, the higher the car.

When I collected the car:

What is is adjusted to:

Its probably shorter than just about everyone elses height rod because if the height valve was functioning properly, the result would be frnt in much higher than standard.

Thanks TJ, you're right. Thats jogged my memory... if I jack the front of the car up to change a wheel / inspect brake pads, when I drop it then it does go as low as yours is in that picture. I'm assuming the whole front including the hydro-struts have lost pressure, and it takes about 10-15 min at 600rpm idle for it to re-pressurise enough to get the jack out.

I.

 

[B13]

Dear Tim

yes that is completely sunk down to the ground, Ian's does not quite look that low

Which is why, with some reluctance, I can still drive it...

I.

 

[TJ 450]

That was due to the car sitting for at least four years without operation, completely depressurised at the front.
Strangely, the system pressurised and returned to normal clearance within a couple of minutes when I eventually got the engine running.

I wonder if the rod is too short, what if you disconnect the rod while the engine is running and move it by hand?

Tim

 

[Des]

Thanks TJ, you're right. Thats jogged my memory... if I jack the front of the car up to change a wheel / inspect brake pads, when I drop it then it does go as low as yours is in that picture. I'm assuming the whole front including the hydro-struts have lost pressure, and it takes about 10-15 min at 600rpm idle for it to re-pressurise enough to get the jack out.

I.

Do you lock it from the dash first?

As that locks the fluid in the struts an prevents in from escaping out, so the car does not sink right down upon being lovered off the jack


That feature did work for me when I installed the BBS wheels,

 

[B13]

Hi Des, yes I did, both times.... 1st when I went from the BBSs to the Bundts, and then again when I went from the Bundts back to the BBSs.

Both times the hydro system didn't believe me that I wanted to lock the system for servicing the car and sank anyway. LOL

I think you mentioned you changed the control valve on top the the hydro-reservoir? Was that a new one or did you get a place to recondition it... if so, who? Or am I thinking of someone elses car...

I.

 

[Des]

Yes the hydro system did that to me once as well, locked it and still sank anyway, but after letting the air out of the system it then beheaved itself when I jacked it up and put the BBS's on.

This was right after my mechanic redid the pump, and Styria mentioned that when any work is done on the hydro it usually needs the air bleed out, or you have all these funny problems.




Then worked correctly when we changed the chrome wheel arch trims.

have you tried bleeding the system, by letting the air out?



I'm not sure about the control valve, check the paperwork, everything that was done, was documented in that.


Does not ring a bell though?!?!?!

 

[Des]

Both times the hydro system didn't believe me that I wanted to lock the system for servicing the car and sank anyway. LOL


I.

From memory, the dash warning light goes on when you lock it? did this happen?


I can't remember the exact position, maybe someone else can chime in, but you can lock the suspension from the metal plate on the main distribution pump?
as that is all the knob does, pulls the metal hoses, and locks the metal plate.

it has three poisitions, normal, locked, and raised height.

 

[Des]

Once I fitted the BBS's I could never get the height right, no matter what I did with the height adjustment rods, always sat too heigh at the back:

 

[Michel]

From memory, the dash warning light goes on when you lock it? did this happen?


I can't remember the exact position, maybe someone else can chime in, but you can lock the suspension from the metal plate on the main distribution pump?
as that is all the knob does, pulls the metal hoses, and locks the metal plate.

it has three poisitions, normal, locked, and raised height.

In the middle it is locked.
And in anycase, if you are unsure, do it manually under the bonnet after you disconnect the cable

 

[B13]

LOL - now its busted and won't lift up at all... the back is up a mile and the front is now fully down. No matter how long I rev it at 2000rpm for it won't pressurise or lift :-(

I've changed the pressure regulator/distribution valve last week with no difference, and today changed the level control valve - this time with more serious results - I can't drive the car.

Styria, I'm thinking its something other than the above valves, possible some part of the system is on bypass or the hydro pump isn't generating the required pressure.

If anyone wants to see a picture let me know, its pretty disturbing.

I.

 

[Des]

Ian, do you know anyone that has a hydraulic test kit?

Might be a way of testing the pump or other parts of the system?

 

[Michel]

LOL - now its busted and won't lift up at all... the back is up a mile and the front is now fully down. No matter how long I rev it at 2000rpm for it won't pressurise or lift :-(
I've changed the pressure regulator/distribution valve last week with no difference, and today changed the level control valve - this time with more serious results - I can't drive the car.
Styria, I'm thinking its something other than the above valves, possible some part of the system is on bypass or the hydro pump isn't generating the required pressure.
If anyone wants to see a picture let me know, its pretty disturbing.
I.

Sad to hear you are in that position Ian...
Hope you can sort it out soon

 

[B13]

Yes, its a joke gone too far at the moment... and I've stranded myself...

I'm hitting the bottle for the night - 2004 Shiraz to be precise - maybe I'll come up with some bright idea in the morning.

Des, you are right about the pressure test equipment, unfortunately I don't know anyone with it but I will find someone on monday, because it looks like the car will be towed there with that unenviable statement "just fix it and bill my credit card" :-(

I.

 

[Des]

I think this was the thread I was thinking of:


http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=819&SearchTerms=test,equipment

 

[TJ 450]

Hi Ian,

Just a thought... did you prime the pump when you changed the valve(s). I you don't it will just suck in air as I found out on my car. You must disconnect the high pressure line into the main pressure regulator and direct it into the reservoir through the dipstick hole, then run the engine until there is no interuption to the flow. This way you can also be sure that the pump is functioning properly. Then you should inspect the distribution valve for proper function by removing the cable and turning it manually with the engine running.

So, basically I would suggest starting at the pump and working through the system until you solve the problem.

Tim

 

[B13]

Hey you know what I just did this test and noticed the output of the pump is not particularly volumous, or linear, more like its spitting fluid.

I don't know what I'm looking for but I presume a fairly decent volume (car was idling at 1400rpm cold idle), and in a more linear / less spitting type of delivery.

Anyone got a video on what the output should look like? I'm going to shoot one now but it will take till late late this afternoon for the results to show up on you tube.

I.

 

[B13]

Here we go, is this right or not?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC12X6wVPfY

I.