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Worked out why my rebuilt WUR didn't solve the problem of the 10 bar control pressure... Return fuel needed somewhere to go, and didn't have it. So I gave it. OHS got even better when I ran the hose back to the tank via the roof... It coughed. Then nothing (flooded). Tried again next day...

Hope it hasn't chewed up anything else, but I assume it's not the hardest item to source a replacement or worst case get welded back together?

Still trying to work out why Nick from Kogarah (see post #1424) thinks the red fixer-upper is worth *more* than the other one... He's still got it on carsales for 24k (3 months later) and just reactivated his gumtree ad at 29k from before it struggled to get to 7 at auction... 🤷‍♀️

M100.985 data for applying my thought experiments to you 6.9ers: 107(=4.213")x95 Deck height 260 nominal Rod length 166 (ratio 1.75 😃) Poke is +0.25-0.15 so... => CH is 260-166-47.5=46.5 BE bore 58.6 => 55 journal (54.955 actually) BE Journal width 52 Pin 26 BE width 25.875 Mains 69.955/74.5...

crap. typed a lot and hit the wrong key and lost it all. sorry folks, will retell the story later. [Edit] Story now retold. See above. There was more humour before, but I can't remember it.

Glad you appreciate it! For the time being im as much using this thread as a notepad while I work as sharing the story, but if it's entertaining or informative then that us some extra motivation to keep pausing for photos and typing out findings etc. In answer to your question Styria: I'm...

Air measuerer bits after much engine degreaser × brushing. Still quite some varnish to go before OCD satisfaction, but realistically this is more than adequately clean. I should be totally happy with this. The bearing doesn't turn but really, does it need to? It obviously hasn't done for...

Cheers! That's the one I was referring to above. Generally very good but it does assume the engine runs already (unsurprising given the title). The way you can pre-set a baseline AFR with the flapper adjustment screw before even cranking the engine wasn't really clear to me until I read the...

Mines obviously overflowing due to the petrol wash down (and thinning the oil), so it could be weeping from the crank seal or another likely spot is the distributor shaft. I know my one has a worn out o ring on it. You could see oil above it on the shaft. I didn't have a replacement the exact...

Oh. That's interesting. Turns out the squealing I had ignored when testing fuel supply was the injectors spraying fuel down every open intake port. Even with the engine off. Found mention of this in the 928 kjet tuning pdf, nothing in the Benz literature. Mercedes only mentions the mixture...

Extremely so! Thanks very much! I may never actually have the cash or time to try any of these musings out, but the thought experiment is better than despair at my yard art, and who knows someone else may one day use this thread to "finally unlock the performance potential of the m116/7 platform" 🤣

More calcs to do. But back of envelope says this is the way. Should be plenty of meat left after 2mm overbore, so block not an issue plus can go manual if desired, crank isn't externally balanced so dropping heaps of moving mass should mean only counterweights get lighter. Calcs req but ring...

Engine dimensions scratchpad (my own reference, might as well keep it here). Iron 116 92x65.8 Alloy 117 96.5, 98.5/99 practical bore limit 116 CR 138+--.05 CH 43.15 * 117 154.5+-.05, 48.1 116.985 piston rings are 1.75 and 2.5 thick, with a 4mm oil ring. Compare je for na typical of aftermarket...

Well mine seems dead. Timing set correctly, confirmed the dizzy cap actually does work. New plugs, new leads. Confirmed sparking. Cranked till oil pressure. Sprayed aerostart into the flapper to circumvent any fuel metering issues. Got one cough straight off, then nothing BUT... Smoke now...

Yeah I'm still weighing up what to do. The muntered lobes coincide with lash adjusters that were out of the head part of a turn. Of course the whole picture is of a grotesquely underserviced engine, so although the left bank seems largely fine (some lobes in my first picture of covers off even...

Applied measurement and a little critical thinking to bits I took off yesterday. This cap hasn't always been fitted correctly... :rolleyes: This centre contact is coated in some kinda graphite-meets-WD40 varnish that isn't the most conductive... Captain File to the rescue, again, much...

Decided to hoe into the car today during a dry spell. Really just intended to round out ignition testing by pulling off the dizzy cap and rotor and checking resistances (even though they're both so heavily eroded i definitely need new ones). Didn't even end up getting the multimeter on them...

Good tip. Thanks. Got a 1kR one which should do the job fine. It was definitely not very expensive ;)

Yup. That's all I'm after at the moment. I'll spend and wait for a new set of Beru leads and BP5ES when it's time, and the cheap bits can revert to diagnostic spares.

They're WR8DC+, which NGK says cross references with BP5ES (no R), vs WR8DC=BPR5ES, so I assume the + signifies "added lack of resistance" 🤣 I'd say the plugs I have are the right ones now, since I have the (correct dizzy terminal now) Eagle leads on order. Depends on the actual impedance of...