What to look out for?

[Martin280s]

I have decided that my affair in the W124 world must come to an end. After a rather expensive foray into the world of 'newer' Mercedes cars. I have come to the conclusion "they really didn't make them like they used to". Despite being a fine car...when 100%, maintenance has been very pricey and it just isn't robust as older cars like the W116. In terms of comfort the W124 is superior, even more luxurious too but not worth the financial outlay necessary.

So after selling the W124, I'm considering a W107 instead of another W116, the W107 is supposed to be the coupé version anyway.

What should I look out for? From the general overview the mechanics are the same as the W116 so it should be quite robust, I'm thinking a V8 auto.

Suggestions Gents. Thanks in advance.

 

[TJ 450]

That's a shame, but a 107 would be a good choice in my opinion. If you want an SLC, I would look for a 450.

Regarding SLs, depending on what sort of problems you had with the 124, the '80s variants had;
Plastic tanked radiators
722.3xx 4-Speed transmission
Electric passenger mirror
Electronic speedometer
ABS

...to name a few.

The 1970s cars are more robust whichever way you look at it, but you may have to put up with such things as (eg.) green dashes and whatnot.

Also, the 107 is based on the 114 (compact) chassis, so it is behind the 116 in terms of chassis technology. That doesn't mean it isn't a competent car though, it's just different.

Also, you should have the front subframe checked for the modification and the condition of the mounts on a prospective vehicle.

If an SL, look for rust in the usual places plus; The soft top stowage compartment in the corners, in the area behind the headlights (inner guard).

Tim

 

[hoddo]

have a look at this thread about early 107's


http://ww.ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9175

 

[John S]

I'm surprised at your experiences with a W124, but you can have major costs with any Mercedes if you happen to buy the wrong one.

The SLC is a great looking car in my opinion, but watch out for rust!!!! Rust in one of these is very big $$$ so if you can see rust anywhere RUN!!! Also have a look at the back quarter windows where the louvers are, also biggish dollars to fix leaks moisture etc.

Buy a good one and you will enjoy it, buy a bad on and you may have nightmares.

 

[Martin280s]

John, Over here the parts for the newer Benzes are really pricey and I didn't expect to have as much maintenace on a low-mileage car

I have done in just under two years:

½ car respray due to vandalism – R$ 680
Battery – R$ 300
Differential – R$ 1,160
Four tyres – R$ 1,500
Front brake pads - R$ 185
Front bumper – R$ 1,800
Front suspension mounts – R$ 170
Lower hose for the power steering – R$ 100
Oil pressure switch – R$ 350
Rear exhaust (over the axles) – R$ 200
Rotor, Distributor and mount R$ 600
Sunroof lifting arms – R$ 50
Various sundries +/- R$ 300

A lot of money for maintenance, and these thing were not bought in dealerships!

 

[WGB]

That list doesn't sound too bad to me.

What I have spent on my 6.9 would make your eyes water.

Even my 2 1/2 year old ML 500 has had 4 tyres AU$2,000 (mates rates), 2 services at AU$500 and AU$970 and nothing else in the past 12 months.

Bill

 

[Martin280s]

Maybe so Bill, but that was in less than two years!

 

[John S]

Martin280s, you have spent a lot of money in two years, but most of the items seem to be of the "1-off and then they are ok for the next 15 years" type of expense.

Hopefully you are over the repair hill and everything will be plain sailing from now on.

 

[Michel]

I love the cost of spraying half the car!!!
You'd have to double that figure and put a zero on the end in Australia.

On a serious note, Styria will vouch for how much I have spent in the last 2 years on my 690SEL

And that was for maintenance....

 

[Styria]

This is a subject that holds more than a passing interest for me. To buy, or not to buy ? Good or bad ? Neglected or well maintained ?.....and how much to pay, and what sort of a car to buy - well, I'm talking about 107s, 116s, whatever, one just has to be careful, discerning, a good judge and have a darned good idea what you are contemplating - and that is that one buys an old car and money will need to be spent on it.

I'll say it right from the outset that JoeB.'s summary and assessment is absolutely spot on except for one additional consideration -- it is most unlikely, and almost impossible, to find a car that will meet all of his criteria, thus compromises will be required when selecting a car to buy. If I remember correctly, Hoddo took forever to find his 450SLC (I think I'm right in stating the time frame), and he has done very well yet he still had to spend good money on his car. Some of us saw it at the topklasse barbecue and what a splendid example it is. There is also another owner that Parks and I are very familiar with and, in his instance, he looked for two years before finding a 450SLC that would meet his standards. Again, he has had to set aside and call on additional funds on top of his initial purchase price. I think it was in the region of about $25k., but several years ago.. It is also a splendid car, much cherished but again not without certain shortcomings. As I said earlier, we are dealing with thirty year old cars that would, if produced nowadays, probably command a retail price of $160k., if not more

I have always maintained to purchase any 116 and 107 models in as good a condition as possible. Pay little money, and the car can bite you. Mind you, you can even pay really top money, and there is no guarantee that one will not have to outlay funds from time to time. I guess a lot depends on the frequency of usage the car is put to.

In your situation, Martin, I have my doubts if a 107 would be a cheaper car to maintain than your 124 - a model with a reputation of excellent longevity and quality, and user-friendliness. Obviously, watch out for rust, a nice clean interior, and ascertain that all heating and cooling functions work properly. Also pay some attention to the rear window louvres - to rectify blistering of paint, and refurbishment, is a time consuming process. Regards Styria

 

[hoddo]

This is how Styrias above post would have gone if I was sitting in his workshop having a cup of coffee with him, discussing Martins pending purchase.

This is a subject that holds more than a passing interest for me. To buy, or not to buy ? Good or bad ? Neglected or well maintained ?.....and how much to pay, and what sort of a car to buy - well, I'm talking about 107s, 116s, whatever, one just has to be careful, discerning, a good judge and have a darned good idea what you are contemplating - and that is that one buys an old car and money will need to be spent on it.

I think you are spot on mate, you have to know what your looking for and why, then do some homework.

I'll say it right from the outset that JoeB.'s summary and assessment is absolutely spot on except for one additional consideration -- it is most unlikely, and almost impossible, to find a car that will meet all of his criteria, thus compromises will be required when selecting a car to buy.

Another good point there are a few boxes on Joe's list that I couldnt tick for my slc, but its still a nice car. A good pre purchase inspection by someone who really knows the make/model is the only way to go. Realisticly whatever is found worn/damaged ect in the inspection will have to be fixed so the cost of the repairs should be added to the purcase price and possibly not all problems will be found, but it is a good indication of the true cost you are going to be paying for the car.

If I remember correctly, Hoddo took forever to find his 450SLC (I think I'm right in stating the time frame), and he has done very well yet he still had to spend good money on his car. Some of us saw it at the topklasse barbecue and what a splendid example it is.

My car thanks you for the compliment Micheal, that was a good BBQ. It actually took me 49 years to find my slc.. I just never knew I was looking for it. I was actually very lucky come across my car and it goes to show that sometimes cheap can be good.

There is also another owner that Parks and I are very familiar with and, in his instance, he looked for two years before finding a 450SLC that would meet his standards. Again, he has had to set aside and call on additional funds on top of his initial purchase price. I think it was in the region of about $25k., but several years ago.. It is also a splendid car, much cherished but again not without certain shortcomings. As I said earlier, we are dealing with thirty year old cars that would, if produced nowadays, probably command a retail price of $160k., if not more

Yep, thats why I dont hesitate to spend whatever is needed to keep the car in good condition. These old mercs are very cheap to buy considering the build quality but they do need to be maintained properly.

I have always maintained to purchase any 116 and 107 models in as good a condition as possible. Pay little money, and the car can bite you. Mind you, you can even pay really top money, and there is no guarantee that one will not have to outlay funds from time to time.

I agree buy the best condition you can find but I would say there is a guarantee that you WILL have to outlay funds from time to time

I guess a lot depends on the frequency of usage the car is put to.

Yep, a daily driver is going to cost more to maintain but they do like to be driven.

In your situation, Martin, I have my doubts if a 107 would be a cheaper car to maintain than your 124 - a model with a reputation of excellent longevity and quality, and user-friendliness. Obviously, watch out for rust, a nice clean interior, and ascertain that all heating and cooling functions work properly. Also pay some attention to the rear window louvres - to rectify blistering of paint, and refurbishment, is a time consuming process. Regards Styria

Right again Styria, heater and air working is a big plus, aircon repairs can be expensive possibly removal of the dash. Rust can be a problem but I think some ppl tend to be a bit paranoid about it, rust can be fixed just costs more if its in bad places like anywhere structural, around the screens or sunroof ect. or is very advanced like entire floors boots ect. I suspect even 'rust free' cars have rust in there somewhere just waiting to come out when the conditions are right. So keep them dry, and make sure drain holes are clear. Good luck in your search Martin, once you have driven a couple of slc's I'm sure you will be hooked. Hoddo