W116 window and door trim strips dull

[GreaseMonkey]

Hi, any advice welcomed. The trim strips on my Crayford 280SE are a bit dull. Anyone tell me what they are made of? Looks like some sort of lacquered aluminium, and they have gone a bit gray. Can they be polished/refinished/cleaned up?
Or do I look for new, and are these available?
From the A-post windscreen pillars, back along the drip rail along the side of the roof, and down the C-pillar all need treatment or replacing.
Thanks,
Chris

 

[WGB]

I have never seen anyone successfully replate them but would be very happy to be proven wrong.

I have purchased two new A-pillar pieces from the Classic Centre in Irvine California for my 6.9 in July as mine had some small dents on them and they are a very conspicuous part of the car.

With 15% reduction for M-100.cc membership the pair were US$261.94 (for the pair) and shipping US$68. Arrived in about 8 days.

They are obviously new and perfect but I'm still a little underwhelmed at the level of shine - I assume gentle polishing would improve them but I will be very careful with the elbow grease as the finish appears to be a thin layer.

If you want to contact him about any other trim bits his e-mail is thomas.hanson@mbusa.com

He did say that the stock of new A-pillar pieces was running out and I have no reason to think this was merely salesmanship.

Bill

 

[oscar]

About that 2k clear suggestion - It was a friend of styria's that I met in Canberra a while back that suggested the 2k clear, from an aerosol too I think. Himself a 6.9 owner, I think he was/is a detailer and had plenty of experience in the trade. David was it, styria? Not sure if he forums but I reckon if you can clean them up and get a nice smooth coat to give it a perfectly even wet look the blemishes should appear to disappear the way they do when covered in water.

 

[Michel]

I though all aluminium moulds were anodised.....

 

[John S]

For a quick improvement just wipe over with WD-40, the old anodizing goes from looking dull white to looking bright silver and lasts over a week!

Working from this idea David used 2K clear, wiping it over the trim for a great look. I tried it but I think the trim was too hot and did I not get the same brilliant effect.

In the USA they recommend TRU-OIL gun stock finish, which is available in a 3 oz bottle. One application generally lasts about a year. It is available in Australia.

 

[WGB]

In the USA they recommend TRU-OIL gun stock finish, which is available in a 3 oz bottle. One application generally lasts about a year. It is available in Australia.

I have plenty of that - must give it a try - it certainly shines up what it's meant to shine up.

Bill

 

[Michel]

For a quick improvement just wipe over with WDE40, the old anodizing goes from looking dull white to looking bright silver and lasts over a week!

Now I know why the office cleaner raids the WD40 can.
She claims that it shines the stainless steel panels on the office doors...

Must try that on the trim pieces....

 

[Des]

you know what someone could make a packet inventing?

A clear film that you apply over your windows to keep the UV rays out that ruin car interiors, trim etc....
I know window tinting does this somewhat, but a clear film that you can't tell it is actually there

Probably is already made into new car glass.




I think it is important to use the tin foil sun shades to keep as much heat and light out of your car when not using it, protects the interior.

 

[GreaseMonkey]

I think it is important to use the tin foil sun shades to keep as much heat and light out of your car when not using it, protects the interior.[/QUOTE]

You're right there Des, I've got loads of them, so there's always enough to fill front and back windows of all cars.
And thanks for all the replies re cleaning the trim.
I have some old damaged spares in the shed, so I will try to test all ideas to see what comes up best, and will report back.
Chris

 

[Des]

The crayford should have snazzy little curtains on the back windows to keep the light, and prying eyes out

 

[GreaseMonkey]

The crayford should have snazzy little curtains on the back windows to keep the light, and prying eyes out

Working on it, but it needs to be tastefully done for a real classy shaggin-wagon, so off to Spotlight next weekend for ideas!
Still need to get the trim bits polished though.
Chris

 

[Des]

You probably want to have a look at one of the few M100 600 Grossers around at the next NSW car show, they should have the little curtains in the back, take a few photos and get someone to make up a similar arrangement for your Crayford.

I imagine they are the same setup as for a house window, just scaled down.

 

[Styria]

Hi guys, I have tried a really bright 2-pack "Fine Silver" and clear 2-K lacquer over the top, and the result is okay at best. Mind you, anyone NOT familiar with these cars would probably never know the difference.

I have also sprayed 2-K clear straight onto the alloy and, once again, the result is fair. I prefer to use it on a good trim bit primarily to protect its nice appearance - when in good condition. There is also a chrome spray supplied by the Alsa Corporation in the States - I think it's called "Mirra Chrome" but we have not tried it at this stage. Regards Styria

 

[GreaseMonkey]

First, thanks to all who have offered opinions, and yes, the majority do seem to think they can't be brought back as new.
Well, two things;
One - I am a stubborn bugger when I get an idea.
Two - I like a challenge.
I am making notes of all suggestions, and when I can clear a space on the workbench I will try some scrap parts and photograph the results.
I should maybe also point out that I am a Pom who has only been in Aus five years and I am still amazed at how much damage the sun and UV does to cars here.
In the old country, we only had the salt on the road in winter to worry about, and the floor of your car usually rusted through and fell out, but the plastic parts, rubber window and door seals, paint and trim were never a problem.
The main lesson I have learned here, is keep a car under cover as much as possible, and where the car is new, or restored as new that is worthwhile advice, but where we are trying to make good on thirty year old cars, the damage is often already done.
Still, ever the optimist, I'll have a go.
Chris

 

[John S]

To dramatically reduce the damage that UV does to the plastic interior parts use 303Protectant - does an excellent job.

 

[BAR]

I have been using WD40 for well over 3 years now to brighten up the ageing effects of oxidisation.

It is as has been said a short term 'polish', needing to be done at least once a month, however I find that a little spay onto a fine cloth - try microfibre dusting cloths - helps to get into the 'gutter' channel at the rear window top part and also ensures that one only appllies the WD40 to the bright parts and not the paint.

As for UV protection, I once had a 3M window tinit film that was 'metalised' and the main reason for its use was heat reduction and UV protection, not blackout so there was only a low level reduction in the vision, better for night driving in that one wasn't driving around as if wearing a pair of sun glasses. It was very effective in reducing heat and UV. I can't remeber the name of the product, but it would be well know to a professional window tinting person.

 

[Des]

To dramatically reduce the damage that UV does to the plastic interior parts use 303Protectant - does an excellent job.

I don't mean to sound ignorant, but what is that?

 

[Michel]

I don't mean to sound ignorant, but what is that?

it is 'Protectant' called 303

 

[TJ 450]

Perhaps it is part of this product range:

http://www.303products.com/

Tim

 

[Michel]

Perhaps it is part of this product range:

http://www.303products.com/

Tim

That's the one...