Preparing to Start a Car that Hasn't run for ~4 Years

[Lukas]

Hi all,

Am about to take posession of a car (W116) that apparently hasn't been run at all for about 4 years, possibly more. Any advice on what preparation I should be making? This is purely to get the engine running, not do go driving or get a RWC or such.

What I'm planning to do is:
1) Change engine oil and filter (what grade - another post on TopKlasse had me believing that simple 20W50 would be suitable for starters, or should I use something more viscous, like 10W40?)
2) Drain fuel tank & put in fresh fuel (just unleaded with flashlube)

Anything else? Could there be potential issues with the cylinder head rings seizing inside the cylinders, because all the oil has drained to the sump?

Will attent to the cooling system eventually too, but don't intend to run the engine for long enough for cooling to be an issue initially.

Ta

Lukas

 

[B13]

People here will no doubt respond saying to change the oil, and filter, and coolant, and this and that and..... lets face it you just want to see the car run....

Just do this:

Drain the petrol, if there is any in there
Pull the spark plugs labelling the leads in the process
Squirt some WD40 into each cylinder
With the sparkplugs out and the power steering belts up tight, turn the engine a couple of times should turn without undue stress
Plugs back in, leads back on, dizzy cap OFF
Crank engine until the Oel pressure needle starts to move (usually takes 20-30 seconds) this process primes the oil sustem and pushes excess WD40 into the exhaust system.
Petrol in tank, dizzy cap ON, cross your fingers and turn the key - it should start. As soon as it starts go check your coolant for bubbles, or top it up if its low.
Video your startup and upload to Youtube.
Run for 5 minutes.

If it doesn't start then the fuel pump has probably crapped out.

 

[Lukas]

Thanks for that, will try it out and let you know on Monday - no video sorry - lack of camera.

 

[Styria]

Hi 13B, it will be interesting to see how Lukas got on over the weekend - if in fact he did some work on his car.

I would probably do things a little differently to what you have suggested - I am not a great believer in WD40 as a lubricator - sure, free things up a little perhaps, but I would prefer to use some ATF or even thin oil down the bores, and cranking engine with plugs out. What do you think ? Also, it is easier to crank engine and build up oil pressure with plugs out. Anyway, it will be interesting to see how he got on. Regards Styria

 

[Lukas]

Hi all,

Thanks again for the advice. Discovered that I had no WD40 at home (only cheapo immitation WD40), so put a little engine oil down each injector instead - this is how the previous owner has apparently been doing it (4 years ago).

Anyway, progress report:

1) Removed all plugs, added alittle oil, blugs back in, all seems OK. The leads had little numbers on them, which was handy and saved me making labels.

2) Changed the oil anyway, the damn thing holds so much it overflowed my oil pan - about 9L came out in total. 8L have gone in, no leaks so far, so all good. New oil filter too - $40 to get one from Repco, or $27 and 2 weeks wait from Supercheap. Repco say they will match prices, but require them to be on paper, while Supercheap say "just get them to call us" - #$%$%&@!

3) Pulled fuel system apart, to drain it plus to figure out how it works. This was the show stopper - one of the hoses (tank to small round thingo before fuel pump) tore on re-inserting it onto said round thingo, so need a new one of them - will replace the two other rubber-with-braiding hoses too. Also established that the fuel pump doesn't, and would like to change the filter too.

Also broke two of the little rubber widgets that attach the fuel system bits to the chassis (rusted nuts), so need to get some more of those.

Question: any advice on the necessity of changing the green fuel regulator that's last in line in the fuel system?

Fuel system pic:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll69/lukasland/2008-06-01Mercedes00.jpg

Rubber brackets:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll69/lukasland/2008-06-01Mercedes01.jpg

Broken hose:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll69/lukasland/2008-06-01Mercedes02.jpg

The engine does crank nicely, and the oil pressure builds up well. An aside: my gauge is in English rather than German - is that significant?

Anyway, I've got to procure some spares for the fuel system, and will then put it all back together again and let you know.

If anyone has and advice as to where in particular to get the spares, and what they should be costing, please advise. I'm told MBSpares in Canberra (where I am) is a good start.

Ta

Lukas

 

[B13]

Some advice which no doubt you've already learned... rusted nuts and bolts... there's probably more of them rusted on than not in the average W116, esp. underneath the car.

Inox is your friend. Before I undo anything in my cars I give each nut, bolt etc. a shot of inox, give it some time to soak in... if said nut gets tighter as you undo it then stop, more inox, tighten up and undo... you'll soon get the hang of it.

Oh and the rubber hoses are pretty brittle... reuse them at your peril... best to replace them all as you remove them...

Hope this helps.

Ian.

 

[Michel]

Lukas.

Any update?

 

[Lukas]

Yes and no - went to MBSpares yesterday (lovely place) and get one of the hoses and the filter. Got a 2nd hand pump via eBay* on it's way, hopefully it will be there when I get home tonight (Friday). Then need to procure the other rubber-with-braiding hoses, flush the tank some more, put it all together and turn the key.

Also need to replace 2 of the little rubber mounts that attach the fuel system to the chassis, as I broke them while removing (rusted), but can attach the whole lot with the other 2 and string for now (don't worry, only moving it around the yard if it does run). MBSpares will be helping me with those too.

* Re the ebay fuel pump, is second hand and thus a risk, but at $55 shipped is better than $265 for a new one. Part numbers are identical. A tip that MBSpares gave me: the fuel in the pumps actually runs through the motor apparently, thus running a dry pump will break it, even if it would otherwise work. Advice is thus to fully submerge the pump in fuel for about a day, to minimise risk of this happening. Will try this with the eBay pump and my old one - perhaps that can be resurrected too. If all that fails, off to MBSpares again.

If the fuel pumps don't show or go this weekend, will instead disassemble, clean, etc the sunroof, which is currently jammed in the slightly open position, just in time for it to start raining in Canberra. Not a high priority, but wanna do something. Power door windows also don't run that well, so they may get the same treatment. May also test out the brakes and park brake - if the car does get going, want to be able to stop it again.

Will post an update on Tuesday (long weekend - woohoo), if not before (have internet at home this weekend!).

Lukas

 

[B13]

Lukas, what wheels are on your car? They look like 15" from the pictures in the other thread...

Oscar might be able to work out an exchange for 14" wheels and white MB hubcaps if you drop him a line. "Povo", the white manual gearbox 280S soon-to-be-racecar could definately benefit from the 15" rims.

I.

 

[Styria]

Hi Lukas, thanks for the pics. and also bringing us up to date with the work you're doing. From your description (not evidenced in pics) you're taking on a sizeable project, but of course it depends on you as to the extent of restoration and refurbishment you are aiming for.

It will be advisable to get the car up and running, so that at least you can ascertain the mechanical condition of the car. Good luck with your project and yeah - INOX is a good and handy product. Regards Styria

 

[Lukas]

All,

Mini update - fuel pump hasn't arrived yet, and the old one could not be resurrected, so it was sunroof time instead - see the thread in the interiors board.

The "will it run" saga will re-commence once the fuel pump arrives - probably next weekend.

Re the wheels - ta for the tip - I'm not planning to do anything with them for quite some time though (no point having nice wheels on a car that doesn't work) - will keep it in mind though.

Lukas

 

[Lukas]

Hooray - it runs!

Fuel pump arrived on Tuesday, let it soak in fuel until Thursday night, then put it all in. Small fuel leak at the fuel filter inlet (because I forgot to get new compression washers), but otherwise the plumbing seems sound.

After putting the fuel system back together, put fuel in the tank and undid a small hose near the top of the fuel system to allow it to prime. Then tried starting it a few times for a good 15 seconds a go, with no luck.

Being a 2nd hand fuel pump, thought it might be bung, so I pulled off the little plug for the sensor under the air filter plenum (allowing the pump to run with the ignition in the I position). Fuel pump ran great, so let it run for a while to push fuel through everywhere.

Still didn't start, so went poking things in the engine - when the throttle opening (? - big round plate the air goes through after the air filter) was pushed down, could hear the high-pitched noise of the injectors squirting fuel in (am impressed that I figured out that was what it was). Tried starting after that and it almost ran, so repeated, and eventually it started!

Ran sluggishly for a while, and lots of white smoke (from lots of oil I put into the cylinders probably), but eventually the smoke cleared and it ran what I think is well (for a 32 year old v8). Seems to rev OK too. Note though that I don't really know how a 350 is meant to sound, so I could be wrong here.

Anyway, it's all good, very happy.



Next questions:

1) How do I check for bubbles in the coolant - can't find a traditional radiator cap, only the one for the overflow tank (will the bubbles reach there?)?

2) Any tips for flushing the cooling system?

Lukas

 

[Lukas]

Another update:

Coolant flush was easy - wish my other car was like that. Off to get some anti-freeze shortly.

The only thing stopping me from driving it around the yard is the locked-on brakes - see seperate thread in this board.

Thanks all.

Lukas