Power Window Servicing

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Lukas

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Hi all,

It's time to fix the shuddery windows on the new 6.9 - can anyone advise tips as to what to lubricate and so on?

Have pulled out a door trim, and the vertical bar that the window slides up and down against would seem to be the main point of friction (apart from the window seals in the top of the door frame). I can clean and lubricate that easily enough, but is there anything else? The motor et al is tucked away in an inaccessible part of the door panel, and it looks like pulling it out would be painful.

An aside: there seems to be a little screw that is used to attach the top end of the vertical chrome bar that separates the rear sliding window from the rear 1/4 window. The screw is inserted pointing up, with the head under the rubber window seal and the top sticking through the top back corner of the door frame into the door seal. On one of the doors, this screw was about an inch long, and stuck all the way through the seal and just past the top of the visible edge of the door - that's not normal, right?

Sorry, didn't think to get photos, and as usual it was getting dark.

Thanks

Lukas
 

SELfor50

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Capitown
Hi all,

It's time to fix the shuddery windows on the new 6.9 - can anyone advise tips as to what to lubricate and so on?

Have pulled out a door trim, and the vertical bar that the window slides up and down against would seem to be the main point of friction (apart from the window seals in the top of the door frame). I can clean and lubricate that easily enough, but is there anything else? The motor et al is tucked away in an inaccessible part of the door panel, and it looks like pulling it out would be painful.

An aside: there seems to be a little screw that is used to attach the top end of the vertical chrome bar that separates the rear sliding window from the rear 1/4 window. The screw is inserted pointing up, with the head under the rubber window seal and the top sticking through the top back corner of the door frame into the door seal. On one of the doors, this screw was about an inch long, and stuck all the way through the seal and just past the top of the visible edge of the door - that's not normal, right?

Sorry, didn't think to get photos, and as usual it was getting dark.

Thanks

Lukas

Lukas,

i'll dig out my maintenance manual for the 450 and you can borrow it if you like. I'm home all this weekend coming, so if you want to drop past then and grab the boot rubber as well, you're more than welcome. The manual should explain (diagram wise) exactly how the windows / doors are assembled.

Cam. :)
 
B

BAR

Guest
Over time, the cast alloy plate onto which the window actuator motor and gearbox are mounted can become warped. The passage of time, wherby some friction is introduced combined with the torque of the motor and gear assemblies simply assists to make matters worse.

Simply, when the drive gear on the engine doesn't mate smoothly with the gear assembly another level of friction is introduced.

So before settling down simply to lubricate the gears, take a little more time and inspect your window actuator mechanism and make sure everything is on the level. If not it will again get stiffer and more jittery.
 
OP
L

Lukas

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Thanks for the tips all - attacked the job on Saturday despte the cold, and all 4 are running reasonably well after just greasing the vertical aluminium slider bar and the horizontal slot in the metal bracket at the base of the glass.

On the fronts, also greased the diagonal slider bar that is visible when the window is wound partly down or more.

The clearances seem good, it was just that there efefctively was no grease for the 2 that weren't working well, or the existing stuff had gone hard.

I couldn't see much of the motor and gears (didn't remove any of the mechanism, only the door skins), but apart from a "sproing" noise by a spring in one of the mechanisms, all appeared to operate well. It is surprising though how much the door metal flexes when the window reaches the top.

The front left still pulls forward slightly before starting to wind down, so if that get's worse I'll do a more comprehensive disassembly.
 

Styria

The Godfather
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Hi Lukas, I know it's a fair bit of work, but I would closely look at Bar's post and the matters he raises therein. There are some very valid points and items one should check and attend to and, if rectified, will enable the windows to move up and down more quickly and easily, and the parts will last longer as well. Yes, spend the time on them. Regards Styria
 
B

BAR

Guest
Lukas

The door flexing is an indication that all is not well.

When the door flexes it can allow the gearbox mounting plate to bend. Once it adopts a deformed shape, then the gears do not mesh correctly and any increased resitance can allow the teeth to wer or even break.

The motor has a small sprocket [gear] which meshes with a drive gear that meshes with a thrird gear. The sproing sound could mean that the drive gear is jumping a tooth on the third gear. After all there is a lot of torque provided by this gearbox arrangement.

My advice is to spend the time to remove the whole mechanism and chech that the cast alloy mounting plate is flat. If not flat, try and by a replacment unit or else attempt to extend its life by making up a supporting plate from a sheet of steel and this will help to reinforce the assembly and reduce the bending / flexing.
 

Styria

The Godfather
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For those interested, I have re-generated this excellent post started by Lukas quite a long time ago. Some of the information contained in the various posts simply highlight some of the deficiencies with the electric window system. Regards Styria
 

Oversize

Grand Master
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The big question is what type of lubricants are people using on the slides, window channels and regulator gears? At MB we used zinc oxide (white) grease on the slides and silicone spray on the channel seals. I have found that zinc oxide will become hard over time and therefore less effective. Other options might be Vaseline on the slides, possibly a touch of graphite powder on the channel seals and moly grease on the regulator gears. I would avoid using high temperature wheel bearing grease anywhere except in wheel bearings. Any thoughts??
 

Tony66_au

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Gippsland, Vic
I use Molybdenum grease on mechanical components or copper coat (Although it is bloody expensive) and WD40 garage door spray lube (Silicone) on window channels.

Lithium grease sets hard as does Zinc and in cold weather slows things down.

Ive used copper coat for 20 years on fine mechanical components with great success.
 
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