New paint job!

[BenzLover]

G'day mates!

Well the 126 is off to the paint shop.
A short while ago some low life decided to scratch all of the panels on my 1983 126 just short of $2000.00 in repairs.Luckily I had comprehensive insurance on the car and the rest is history.I should have a complete pictorial very soon covering all the basics of body repairs and paint finish on my website.My insurance company said there will be a brand new looking 126 on the road shortly.

 

[John S]

Why is there such low life always around? Hopefully you shall have no more problems once it is back to it's pristine best.

 

[Styria]

Hi BenzLover, good to hear from you again - mind you, the news concerning the damage caused is not the best. Although, in this instance, could it be a blessing in disguise ? I am surprised at the small amount in dollar figures - in this country, depending on the extent of the damage, you could be looking at a much higher figure.

As an aside, you have two identically engined Mercedes models. I am interested in how they compare with each other from a driving and handling point of view, but more so how the two bodies stand up to rust and other, say, interior problems such as collapsed back seats (as in leather clad 116's) when compared side by side. Regards Styria

 

[BenzLover]

Hi BenzLover, good to hear from you again - mind you, the news concerning the damage caused is not the best. Although, in this instance, could it be a blessing in disguise ? I am surprised at the small amount in dollar figures - in this country, depending on the extent of the damage, you could be looking at a much higher figure.

As an aside, you have two identically engined Mercedes models. I am interested in how they compare with each other from a driving and handling point of view, but more so how the two bodies stand up to rust and other, say, interior problems such as collapsed back seats (as in leather clad 116's) when compared side by side. Regards Styria

I think it might be a blessing in disguise,lets wait and see....
The total hours that they gave to repair and re/paint the car was 25.7 hrs + shop material and taxes.Total repair bill adds up to just shy of 2300.00$ less my deductible -$300.00,the insurance will pay out 2000.00$ to the repair shop.

In regards to driving and handling,I prefer the 126 body style there's more comfort and since it has a longer wheel base its just that much smoother.I have to say though that the 123 has a better pick up a low speed then the 126,lighter in weight helps too.In regards to rust,well up here in Vancouver we rarely get any snow to start with especially in the lower main land,and if it does snow there's so little the city does not bother with road cleaning.But we do have frost and icy road conditions ,keep in mind we are at sea level and the pacific ocean is only about 1 or 2 kilometers away,and when these conditions hit they do apply road salt,and this is where rust may start if you don't wash or at least rinse the car properly you will have to deal with rust from time to time.But in general the cars here are pretty much rust free if I compare that to Montreal where I'm from...the winter season is very long.It starts in mid October and ends in late May with the last big snow fall which could be anywhere from 15 to 35cm in one fall over night.There the rust is obvious and a plague to most cars.The add road salt,sand and small stone as abrasives to keep everyone on the road.Its not unusual to see new cars rusted through after only one or two winters in Quebec.

As for the interiors of our cars,I have to say that Mercedes have a weak spot in those areas,not so much the rear seats but the front seat cushions are prone to collapsing.I had to redo both the 123 and 126 seat cushions a few years ago and I used the noodle type foam that the kids use in swimming pools.It was an easy repair,cheep and very long lasting.
Cheers.
Dan
Vancouver Canada

 

[John S]

The price they have quoted to repaint your car is unbelievably low compared to prices in Australia!!

5 years ago I had quotes to repaint my W116, and they started at $10,000!

However, I must admit, a club member had a cheap respray done on his W116 around the same time. It cost him about $1,500 and it looked quite good from 10 foot away. He moved interstate about 12 months later so I don't know how well it lasted.

 

[BenzLover]

Outch!!

Whats next your new born? A pint of blood too?
That's insane...I have a friend of mine back home in Montreal who does complete restorations on older collectors cars and he charges a fair amount of money for his work,but 10.000$ for a paint job is nuts.After i read your post yesterday,I went out to a few body repair shops in town to get estimates done with out them knowing I had an authorized repair with me.The highest i got was 3450.00$ and the lowest was 2550.00$.I'm not sure what the hourly rate for paying customer is in a body shop but when its your insurance paying they go according to a flat rate (Chilton).Now on the other hand a Mercedes Benz dealership here charges $175.50 an hour for mechanical repairs.If you car is more then 25 years old they give you a discount of 15% on labor and 20% on parts.
It would explain why so many older MB's are for sale.If they go to a stealership here in town and have an oil change or God forbid a more expensive repair,they wont go there twice trust me.
Cheers mates!
Big Dan

 

[Styria]

Hi BenzLover, you're not telling us anything that's new. I have never been, in my entire life, anywhere near a dealer as I simply would not have been able to afford it.

I have also patronized various repair shops over the years, and there was always a good chance that I knew more, or could have done a better job, than the repair shop. The worst part is that in their opinion 'you don't know what you're doing' when, in fact, I knew a hell of a lot more than they did.

$10,000 is not an unreasonable price, as preparation prior to painting can easily vary between 100 to 150 hours. Obviously, it depends on the amount of work involved in preparing the car for painting. That is the most important facet of the whole operation. So really, it is impossible to "quote job prices" without seeing the car, and even then one has to make allowance for unforeseen problems that may become evident as you go along. Regards Styria

 

[Styria]

The price they have quoted to repaint your car is unbelievably low compared to prices in Australia!!

5 years ago I had quotes to repaint my W116, and they started at $10,000!

However, I must admit, a club member had a cheap respray done on his W116 around the same time. It cost him about $1,500 and it looked quite good from 10 foot away. He moved interstate about 12 months later so I don't know how well it lasted.

Hi JohnS, would that have been from a well known source reasonably familiar in Club circles ? Just curious, without anyone being named. Regards Styria

N.B. BTW, remember how I arranged to have the roof sprayed for $380.00 ? That was a 'cheapie', but nevertheless a good quality job. Those very same people also resprayed a 'Finnie' for about $2550.00 (roof NOT included) and the paint is now peeling off in a few places despite the car being garaged at all times. Regards Styria

 

[John S]

That's the problem with a respray Styria, you don't know if you have a good job until 1 or 2 years later and the paint starts degrading - you have to know the people doing the job.

Years ago I had my wife’s Torana resprayed through a contact for a "reasonable" price (it wasn’t cheap) in preference to trading up to a newer car - the 2600 Torana was a great city car- but we traded up about a year or so later anyway. The next time I saw it the paint could best be described as distressed

 

[Styria]

Hi JohnS, that's precisely it - sink back, file and rubbing paper marks quite often don't show up for about a year or so.

One other anomaly concerns cutting back and buffing 2- pack. I know it's been said many times that a cut and buff are necessary. One may have to do some de-nibbing and buff, but that should just about be all. Perhaps it should also be realized that it can take as long as six months for paint to harden properly. So, at least for that period, one should leave the paint alone.

Might get some disagreement here, but those are my, and also other peoples' opinions. Regards Styria

 

[Michel]

Perhaps it should also be realized that it can take as long as six months for paint to harden properly. So, at least for that period, one should leave the paint alone.

Styria

Depends on what type of hardener one uses and whether the paint is baked or just applied and allowed to dry

 

[s class]

Michel, I know you are the pro, so I'd like your view on cutting/polishing.

My personal experience is that I prefer not to cut back and polish. If the spray work was done well, it has a deep luster that is difficult to regain by buffing once it has been cut back with P2000. Maybe I'm just too lazy with the buffing.

 

[Styria]

Hi S-Class, from the limited experience that I have, I am inclined to agree with you as far as buffing new paint is concerned. Strictly speaking, it is not necessary to apply 2-pack in a spray booth, as long as the ambient temperature is suitable for drying the paint applied.

There is the obvious issue of safety as far as the fumes are concerned, but the use of the spray oven is just about essential in order to eliminate dust particles and to stop insects from settling on wet paint - if you were to spray under natural conditions.

I know, most painters like to slice back and buff in an effort to eliminate "orange peel", but I honestly believe that this is not totally necessary and I have seen just about perfect smoothness without the need to cut and buff. I am sure it must have to do with the way the clear is applied and at what point of time.

2 - pack paint can be just about touch dry in a matter of minutes, but it's the "underneath" that takes a long time to settle properly. In the olden days, I knew of a Rover 100 that had been sprayed in duco (not 2-pack) and the paint was left for twelve months, with the car being parked in the corner of the paint shop. When eventually it was buffed, the shine had to be seen to be believed. As I said, that was duco. Regards Styria

 

[GreaseMonkey]

An interesting thread here, as I will be needing a good paint job later this year for the Crayford wagon.
I have decided to put it back to Silver Green and from previous threads, I understand that Standox or Spiess Hecker are the recommended brands.
I was planning to do all the prep myself, and maybe even the under bonnet and various interior parts myself, and deliver the car stripped of all trim and glass, all necessary repiars done and rubbed down ready for primer, so I will be looking for quotes for priming and painting.
I have one local recommended, and obviously transport costs come into it too, (I can't drive it with the windows and lights removed) but does anyone have any reccomendations for a suitable paint shop preferably between here and Sydney?
And any guesses on price if someone has had a similar job done recently?
Thanks,
Chris M.

 

[Michel]

Michel, I know you are the pro, so I'd like your view on cutting/polishing.

My personal experience is that I prefer not to cut back and polish. If the spray work was done well, it has a deep luster that is difficult to regain by buffing once it has been cut back with P2000. Maybe I'm just too lazy with the buffing.

All new paint jobs done in the top shops in Australia are technically 'spray and go'.
They come out of the oven and are delivered to the client.

The reason is the new technology in paints and paint techniques that allow that.

Paint is now cured under baking conditions or infrared lights and a job properly prepared will be final once it's out of the oven.

HOWEVER......

Slicing and then buffing (when properly done) will add a 'deeper' shine (and sometimes remove orange peel).

Cutting (or slicing) and Buffing (when properly done) will give MORE shine and lustre to the paint.

 

[Michel]

. Strictly speaking, it is not necessary to apply 2-pack in a spray booth, as long as the ambient temperature is suitable for drying the paint applied.

Indeed, strictly speaking...

However, it is ILLEGAL in NSW to spray 2-pack outside a filtered environment and you would be mad to do it without wearing the proper apparel (full suit and breathing/filtering mask)
2-pack is carcinogenic and will kill you.

I know, most painters like to slice back and buff in an effort to eliminate "orange peel", but I honestly believe that this is not totally necessary and I have seen just about perfect smoothness without the need to cut and buff. I am sure it must have to do with the way the clear is applied and at what point of time.

It has to do more with preparation and the colour used.
Orange peel will be more visible on darker colours and many times will still be visible even if you slice and buff.

2-pack paint can be just about touch dry in a matter of minutes, but it's the "underneath" that takes a long time to settle properly. Regards Styria

The underneath, if properly applied and if it is the 'proper and matching' primers should be cured before you apply the colour and then the clear.

Every layer that is applied will be cured before the other is layed over.

And I don't mean every 'coat of paint' but every process, meaning:
1-primers
2-paints
3-clear

That is why in the open you do not have the same result as in a controlled (baking oven) situation unless you have the car surrounded by the right infra red lights (and still.... it would not be the same.)

 

[BAR]

Depending upon the paint types and ultimate finish you require, one would expect the process to be lengthy; especially when done away from a professional spray booth. Here is an example of the steps for something that has been stripped to bare metal and ending up with the clear top coat:

• Wipe down surface with paint prep

• Epoxy primer

• Bodywork done on top of the epoxy primed surface

• Sealer primer

• 3-4 coats of base coat

• 3-5 coats of clear coat

If one is to attempt to save some money, I could only suggest that the stripping process is one to attempt 'at home'. Even then, if you don't get a smooth, clean surface (allowing for dents and ripples that may be 'filled'), then the flaws will be amplified in the following phases.

Michel has a great example of what a proper refinishing job should look like!

 

[BenzLover]

I was able to post a few pictures of the body repair being done at my friends body shop.
I should have the car back in a few weeks,there taking there time doing the work.
I was a little sick to my stomach when I saw the car like this....

 

[BenzLover]

I just got back from the body shop this afternoon to see where they were at,and the primer coat is on and they need to sand it down rinse the car and the best is yet to come.....
Stay tuned.
Cheers
Big Dan

 

[BenzLover]

Well gentleman she's ready for your viewing enjoyment.... http://benzguy.piczo.com/gettingabrandnewpaintjob?cr=7&linkvar=000044

Cheers

Big Dan
Vancouver Canada