Mothers Carnouba Wax

[Styria]

Can I appeal to one of our learned friends ? I bought a rather large tin of this "Super Wax" probably ten years ago. It was cheap at the time, compared with today's pricing. Anyway, I used the wax a few times, but over a period of time it became all crumbly, and almost impossible to use. Just too 'clumpy", if you know what I mean.

So I hit upon the idea to boil it, heat it up, on the kitchen stove. All went well with the wax melting and then, of course, I read the instructions - highly flammable, keep away from whatever. Anyway, I survived all potential catastrophi (?), and all the "clumps" have disappeared. The question I have is this : Together with the disappearance of the items already mentioned, would the quality of the wax have suffered in any way ? Can I still rub it onto the super duper surface of Gleaming Beauty, secure in the knowledge that it will ward off not only heat, dust and rain, but also golf ball sized hail ?

Sensible opinions would be appreciated - that's if anyone knows. Regards Styria

 

[BenzBoy]

Try it and see. The worst you can do is dissolve your paint!
Oh, you wanted sensible replies. Sorry - wrong forum for that.
By the way; one catastrophe but two catastrophes. Best averted by buying some Swissvax.
In reality, the amount of Carnauba Wax in Mothers is probably so low it won't matter.
Regards,
Brian

 

[SEL_69L]

As some of you may know, I don't use a wax at all!
Not even on myself!
Before I retired from my detailing job with a new car dealer I was given quite a stock of paint sealant by the supplier. This material is not available in the retail market, unfortunately.

My verdict on the product?
Does not give as deep a gloss as a good quality canuba wax will impart, but it prevents paint oxidation from beginning for two to three times as long.

In my opinion a car that is capable of winning a concours prize finished with canuba wax, should be retreated at least every six months to maintain that pristine paint presentation, even if the car is always garaged when not driven.

From my experience the paint sealant will last at least a year, under the same conditions.

Paintwise, I have neglected my 6.9 for about 18 months now, due to reasons which some of other Topklassers know about. Nevertheless, whenever my 6.9 is caught in the rain, water still beads as if it has been freshly polished.

 

[BenzBoy]

As some of you may know, I don't use a wax at all!
Not even on myself!
Before I retired from my detailing job with a new car dealer I was given quite a stock of paint sealant by the supplier. This material is not available in the retail market, unfortunately.

My verdict on the product?
Does not give as deep a gloss as a good quality canuba wax will impart, but it prevents paint oxidation from beginning for two to three times as long.

In my opinion a car that is capable of winning a concours prize finished with canuba wax, should be retreated at least every six months to maintain that pristine paint presentation, even if the car is always garaged when not driven.

From my experience the paint sealant will last at least a year, under the same conditions.


Paintwise, I have neglected my 6.9 for about 18 months now, due to reasons which some of other Topklassers know about. Nevertheless, whenever my 6.9 is caught in the rain, water still beads as if it has been freshly polished.

But what about Styria's lumpy mother? We have not answered his question....

 

[SEL_69L]

There is a shelf life to all waxes used for automotive use.
The same applies to the paint sealer that I use, although it is not a wax.
In both cases clumping will occur with overextended shelf life. In the case with wax, it dissociates itself from the liquid transport medium, thus the clumping.

The only reason why the wax is dissolved into a liquid is to make the wax easier to apply. Anybody who has used pure canuba wax will know this. That is why machine buffing with solid canuba wax is used commercially. A commercial outfit just hasn't got the time to buff by hand, when using solid wax.

I would assume that the waxes for automotive use would break down into shorter chain greases or even oils under extreme heat. That seems to a minor extent what may have happened, when Styria has heated the wax polish that was used. I would think that the protectant performance of the heated product would have been reduced somewhat, although a high gloss initial finish can still be obtained.

It must be remembered that a wax finish on a paint surface, when exposed to the sun on a hot day, has to be fairly resistant to heat and untra violet light to retain it's sealant qualities. Because canuba wax is considered to be superior, I would guess that it would be more resistant to the maximum level harsh conditions normally expected to sun exposure.

I note that Crystal Rock Svisswax has about 80% canuba wax in it. I would guess that the other 20% is made up of heat and ultra violet resistant stabilising chemistry, and a transport medium to make it easier to apply.

The sealant I use is not wax based at all. It is mixed 5 to 1 with distilled water and sprayed on, as it if it IS water. Almost immediately after spraying on and before it starts to dry, it has to be buffed by hand, using a micro cloth. Because of the quick drying, it has to be sprayed on to a cool paint surface, out of the sun. It takes about two hours exposure to direct sunlight to cure after that. Best to move the car about after treatment, or better still, take it for a drive.

 

[BenzBoy]

Now that is a quality answer.
Regards,
Brian

 

[sean sherry]

Now I'm more confused than ever ! To much to take in . I'll stick with Claying and a Synthetic Sealer. I fall into the quick fix merchants category, though I do admire our hard working Concourse Brothers. Sights for sore eyes.

P. S. followed your suggestion Brian , Claying works a treat on windscreens

 

[SEL_69L]

Efective and and complete cleaning of the paint surface, and claying to remove imbedded dirt in the paint is essential, but that is another subject.

Without this, wax or sealant application is not really worth bothering with, if you want a concours finish.

Actually, the best way to maintain paint condition is to garage your car when not in use, and under light cloth dust cover, if only driven occasionally.

 

[Styria]

I can in all honesty say that I have never read a more comprehensive synopsis on Polishes than the one in this thread. From what I can deduce, David's gut feeling is that the effectiveness of the Carnouba Wax Polish maybe reduced if the heating process is used to dissolve the clumps and let the liquid reharden itself so that it can be used again - perhaps not quite as effectively.

In any case, my normal procedure is to wipe down the major surfaces exposed to dust - and those are the bonnet, roof and bootlid. Once I have wiped those down with a moist chamois, I then apply by sponge a liquid polish manufactured by 'malco' in the US and called "Cherry Flash liquid paste wax", and once dry, just polish it off with a soft clean cloth. In the two years since Gleaming Beauty has been resprayed, she's never been out in the rain, has been washed three times and generally lives a life of non-activity protected by dust covers in my garage.

That doesn't mean that she has not been used - and whatsmore, I am still able to love the sound of the exhaust and the wonderful torque that the engine is able to transmit. Put down your foot, and she goes. There is no need to change down gears - it just all happens so seamlessly. Great cars. Regards Styria