Sooner or later, one will need to replace disc brake rotors. The removal and fitting procedure for front and rear assemblies is markedly different, and this thread will concentrate on the rear assembly. At times, old discs can be stubborn to remove, and it helps to really belt the hub part of the disc with a sizeable hammer - make sure, of course, that the handbrake is off, otherwise you achieve nothing. In addition, you will also need to remove the disc brake caliper, and I tend to disconnect the caliper, steel line and flexible hose as one unit. Have a 14mm Open-Ender and an 11mm claw spanner handy to separate the various pipes and hose.
Setting up the operation of the handbrake can be achieved by two means. THe first is to completely lock the adjustment wheel and then release by three clicks. THat method is fine if you have an inspection hole in the disc hub. That facility is not always machined into the hub - thre seems to be no way of telling what you finish up with when you purchase the replacement disc rotor. So the second method is to leave the disc off, and adjust the serrated wheel continuously with frequent fitting of the disc. When it is impossible to fit the disc, you know you have gone too far.Just takes a bit of time and feel for the job.
THe above picture illustrates the tool and method I use in bolting the rotor hub to the driveshaft. If you use just your hand (fingers), it is difficult to locate the long bolt in the threaded hole of the axle. By using the clamp as illustrated, it is easy to locate the thread and start screwing in. I am a little bit sorry in not taking photos of the handbrake/shoe and szerrated wheel assembly for illustrative purposes, but it can be a little tricky to adjust the handbrake mechanism properly. One other facet relating to caliper refitting - luckily enough, on the 116s the centering position of the caliper in relation to the disc is automatically attained. On 108/109s, there is no such luxury. It becomes a matter of using appropriate thickness shims to attain that central position. Regards Styria
Setting up the operation of the handbrake can be achieved by two means. THe first is to completely lock the adjustment wheel and then release by three clicks. THat method is fine if you have an inspection hole in the disc hub. That facility is not always machined into the hub - thre seems to be no way of telling what you finish up with when you purchase the replacement disc rotor. So the second method is to leave the disc off, and adjust the serrated wheel continuously with frequent fitting of the disc. When it is impossible to fit the disc, you know you have gone too far.Just takes a bit of time and feel for the job.
THe above picture illustrates the tool and method I use in bolting the rotor hub to the driveshaft. If you use just your hand (fingers), it is difficult to locate the long bolt in the threaded hole of the axle. By using the clamp as illustrated, it is easy to locate the thread and start screwing in. I am a little bit sorry in not taking photos of the handbrake/shoe and szerrated wheel assembly for illustrative purposes, but it can be a little tricky to adjust the handbrake mechanism properly. One other facet relating to caliper refitting - luckily enough, on the 116s the centering position of the caliper in relation to the disc is automatically attained. On 108/109s, there is no such luxury. It becomes a matter of using appropriate thickness shims to attain that central position. Regards Styria
), and there is one additional hole which, of course, is the inspection or adjustment hole for the serrated adjustment wheel. On some disc rotor drums, the inspection hole is much larger, and therefore adjustment is greatly facilitated by the larger opening. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo to illustrate that aspect. Regards Styria
